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10" x 3-1/4" Jaw COIL SPRING COMPRESSOR Strut Suspension 1/2" DR - 2 PCS
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Hi everybody,
could you please somebody advice how to remove the rear shock absorber lower bolt? I have exactly the same difficulties as Carl mentioned. The bolt turns freely but would not come out even with hard hammering. Please advice if in your case you had the same issues and if yes how did you solve it?

 

I've just changed the lower bush in the strut and also had difficulty removing the bolt.

A large hammer and suitable drift so you can hit it straight and the bolt came out.

It corrodes to the centre of the bush that's why it turns ok.

 

Thanks Mikesmith. I removed the bolt today using another bolt and a couple of metal plates (all what was on hand). The shock bolt was corroded inside a lot

 

great guide, i have a question im doing this job aswell and right now have a loud bang at the rear, is that upper bushing you mentioned included with the shocks? or is it a bushing that has to be purchased separately? also the upper spring insulator(orange donut) is there a way to know if it needs replacing meaning before taking it all apart, because i have everything to install exept those insulators. i dont want to tackle the job and be stuck if i find those are bad. they are not sold locally.

 

The upper bushing came with my shocks, however it turned out the noise was coming from the bottom bush.

These can be bought separately and much more cheaply.

They just push out and the new one pushed in.

It also means I still have a new set of rear shocks sat in the boot.

 

the new rear shocks came with those bottom bushings front shocks didnt(but got those purchased separately). i just have a bag full of other bushings that came with the rear shocks and was wondering if one of those was the upper one that causes noises for most. now im crossing my fingers hoping those 3 or 4 bolts at the top holding the entire assembly dont brake when i try to get them loose. they really look rusted.

 

I finished the job a few days back.
1.Put the car on jack stands as suggested
2. Spray all nuts and bolts with WD40. Leave it set and go to a bolt supplier such as Fastenal and order 2 new locking nuts and bolts.14mm /6.5 or 7 inches long.Grade 8 or better.

3. Remove the nut half way from the lower shock bolt . Leaving it on will help keep the chisel bit in place.
4. Use an air chisel to push it out. Use a round bit till you have to remove the nut then put a flat bit on the chisel and put it behind the bolt head and push it out the rest of the way.
5.You time and skin are worth the price of the bolts. I took the first one out with the hammer and a hour of my time I will never get back. The second I removed in seconds.
6.Its best your spring compressors are 6 or so inches long so they don't get in the way.
Good luck all .This job will test your metal !!
Regards
fmfz12007

 

Yep, short and compact outside spring compressors are your friends. There isn't a lot of room to work and get the whole spring + compressors out and back in, so less is more

 

Carl,

It is sometimes because of the tension from the shock. If you support the lower part of the shock by a jack it might come out.

 

I really wish I read this thread thoroughly before finally replacing the rear shocks on the XJR last Sunday and yesterday. I spent an hour and a half on lower bolt with a 4lb hammer and a brass punch. Then the next few hours with the spring compressors and jacking the hub up and down to maneuver the shock assembly out
I don't imagine having to do the job again anytime soon but after doing it 4 times on two cars and thoroughly reading through this thread, I hope to get the job done in 3 hours or less.
Might be a good challenge and reason to replace the bushings with poly bushings

 

That's how I got mine out - btw, the lower bush on the Bilstein 24-018586 rear shockers are poly so will last a lot longer, just fitted these to my 94 Xj40 with the X300 suspension. Oh and give the lower bolts a coat of copper grease when you put them back in.

thread:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...cation-126261/


Larry

 

Just in case you missed it... When assembling, please apply a liberal coating of copper grease to the shoulder (not the threads) of the lower bolts to help the next guy out 20 years from now.

 

Ran across another good "how to" for rear X300 XJ shock replacement:

Tech


.

 

Easier with spring compressors and a small bottle jack though Al

And less to take apart


Larry

 

I find dropping the A frame allows both rear shocks to be removed quickly and easily without using a spring compressor, removing brake callipers etc. There used to be a very good set of instructions and pictures online posted by "black onyx"

 

Yes, that is the link I posted two posts above




I used the spring compressor and jack method to replace mine, and it was no minor endeavor. But it down work out.

I can't say if the a-frame drop method is any easier, but it is different, and may be an interesting alternative.

Just thought I'd post it so folks have options.

Al

 

I'm impressed on how different people can solve a pain in the *** job in so many ways. Hope to never do it again. As they say there is more than one way to skin a cat.
Go Cards
fmfz1

 

Do the speed sensors really need to come out? I've tried a few times with mine to no avail.

 

They don't need to but it definitely helps with removing the whole shock/spring assembly. I think if you follow the guide that tells you to remove the a frame and you won't have to deal with a spring compressor and removing the caliper and speed sensors....

I think either method still takes some time though...