What tools will i need? direct fit parts?
 

i need to replace

my upper , lower ball joints ( do i need new shims?)

i have a tool to press them out

i have the ball joints already


i need to replace

outer tie rods ( i have already)
rack n pinion ( direct fit part?? help me find)
all power steering hoses are leaking ( how many are there)
any special tools needed?
does the rack have any bushing that need replacement?



i need to replace the wishbone bushing and lower shock bushings

what tool can i use?



i need to replace my wheel bearings

how do i do this?
what tools will i need?

direct fit bearings??



1996 vanden plas usa

All very straightforward jobs no particularly special tools needed though having or having access to a hydraulic press will help bushing replacement.

For the ball joints and tie rod ends, you can just use a hammer to separate the ball or use a ball joint separator if you have one. No additional shims necessary for the upper ball joints but make sure you count the number of shims in front and behind on each side and put them back the same way otherwise you will alter the caster angle.

Thee are 4 hose in the power steering system, very straightforward to change them but they are expensive. I would check the jubilee clips and make sure they are tight as this is a common problem. Also check the reservoir as often the leak is at the outlet.

The rack is simple to replace, just 4 bolts and a couple of disconnections and you're done. No special tools required.

The wishbone bushings are easy to replace if you have a press, if not you will have to make up a tool using a threaded rod and some appropriate sized sockets.

Wheel bearings are also very simple. You can remove and replace the bearing races using a drift or seal driver. The rear seal is a bit of a pain to remove, if yours looks in good condition I'd leave it be. Make sure you use good high temp grease and plenty of it when repack ing the bearings.

I'm not sure what you mean by direct fit bearings? The wheel bearings are just normal Timken bearings and available at most major car parts stores.

Do I have to remove the spring for the wishbone bushing?

Not for the top wishbones but you will for the bottom ones. Since you're doing all of those items I'd go ahead and take everything out and inspect replace as necessary. You will need to make up a spring compressor to remove the spring. I made mine using an 18" piece of hardened threaded rod with a 1 3/8" long x 3/8" diameter rod pressed into one end forming a tee. This slides up the center of the spring pan and locks into the tower assembly. On the other end I use 6 or 7 hardened washers and a nut to compress the spring.

before me the car has only has oil/oil filter changed every SO OFTEN

i got the car at 168kish miles now it is 198k mile or so

the owner before me(family member)
got it at 120k miles and did nothing but oil n filter



so pretty much everything is ****ed up

the WHOLE suspension is bad front and rear

all bushing are bad ( motor mount as well)

the transmission is ruff ( never changed oil or filter ><)

the differential is in bad shape ( never changed oil or bearings???)

the power steering is bad in the mornings
i replaced belt and its tight
it leaks from a few of the hoses like the very long expensive one
the inner tie rods move with ease the rack n pinion is done
i tried Lucas power steering sealer but it only work for a week or so

the wheel bearing are way done the wheel has to much play


the car was miss firing and i has to replace the 6 coil packs and spark plugs


car has check engine light for both cats exceeded smog limits
i just keep resetting the light and it stays off for random amounts of time
need to replace Front Cats And Rear that is 4 total but being in cali sucks for that

need 4 o2 sensors there OLD and have some wire damage



trying to handle what i can. idk if i can do a tranny rebuild or tear down

im sure it need head gasket replace soon? maybe a new chain tensor

Wow! that is quite a list! You might be better off buying a well sorted and maintained car and using your current one for parts as the parts cost alone for the issues you have mentioned will be very high.

All the jobs are quite doable though :)

but any ways can u private message me or post here a diy on how to make the
tool to compress the front spring would save my life <3


like always ill make a pic diy and share for every one else just need the blue prints lol




im gonna replace these items asap let me know if any SPECIAL TOOLS are needed and if the parts i want are good.


Duralast/Power Steering Pump

This product is a fit for your:
1996 Jaguar VDP 4.0L EFI DOHC 6cyl
Part Number: 5485
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autohausaz
Aftermarket


$102.44

Power Steering Pressure Hose ; Pump To Rack
High Pressure





Eurospare

$19.99
Ball Joint; Front Upper; Front Upper
Economy Brand


Eurospare

$21.19
Valve Cover Gasket
1 per car.

Sure, it's very easy.

You'll need to buy the following:

18" long hardened threaded rod, 3/4" to 7/8" diameter.

A 3/8" hardened rod or dowel pin cut down to about 1 1/4 - 1 5/16" length.

One or two hardened nuts for the large threaded rod.

Several large fender washers for the large rod.

Take the large threaded rod and drill a hole through it near one end that will allow you to insert the small rod/pin tightly. The result should look like this.

Attachment 68670

Grease the large rod well then insert it into the hole at the bottom of the spring pan all the way up to the slotted opening in the spring tower.

Attachment 68672

Then rotate the rod so that the pin at the end sits into the grooves inside the tower.

Now put the washers on the big rod under the spring pan and add the nut.

The assembly looks like this.

Attachment 68671

Now as you start tightening the nut, the spring pan will move up, compressing the spring. Once you have compressed the spring a good bit, place a jack under the steering knuckle (not touching the pan) and remove the bolts that hold the spring pan to the wishbone.

Now slowly start to unwind the nut. The pan will start to separate from the wishbone, the spring going with it. Eventually, when you unwind enough, the spring will be fully decompressed and you can remove the nut and slide it out.

Tip: Use the longest wrench you can or put pipe over your smaller wrench to give you more leverage as tightening the nut will be hard work! A ratcheting wrench makes life easier :)

id rather fix then junk a car ^_^

i see these in my area around 2-5k per car

id rather spend 5k and have mine all nice and i know whats has been replaced



how hard is the head gasket job?

non interference engine?

thanks for tool info thats my project of the day today

No problem :)

Head gasket is no harder than any other car, so if you've done one before it will be easy. Do you have a problem with your compression? Is there water in the oil? Or some other malady? If not I'd leave it.

One issue you can find is that a problem may not be the gasket but rather the head warping. If you take the head off, make sure it is flat within tolerance. If not then you may be able to get it skimmed at a machine shop although there's only so much they can do before you have to junk the head :9

I'm not sure what you mean by non-interference engine?

an interference engine is when the timing belt/ chain brakes
the valves will come in contact with the piston. causing the valves to bent and maybe break a piston


a non interference engine the valves and piston can never come into contact