Hi guys after I replaced my timing chains and water pump I started to get a ticking noise from the passenger side of the engine. So on the weekend I pulled the plugs on the passenger side to see if it was a rod knock or not. So after each piston is on its down stroke I got a 1/4" extension and pushed each piston down thankfully no rod play so it must be a noisey valve? But when I was pulling the air intake off a good amount of oil came out of the tube. Is this a bad sign? And if so should I rebuild the engine? And can it be done? Some info on the car 1999 XJ8L. MFD date 10/98. Work that I've done timing chains and tensioners,water pump, new bearings for belt tensioner and idler pully, front crank gasket, timing cover gaskets, valve cover gaskets, spark plugs,front and rear brakes and rotors, antenna mast. Still working on aux to cdplayer hack. To-do list tires, suspension, A/C. Also when I pulled the timing cover the block and timing cover is brown burnt oil?

 

The oil can be caused by a blocked part load breather, there's a TSB on it in the files section or a search should bring up how-to clean.
How brown? Pictures? Could be caused by poor maintenance on the PO's part (waiting too long between oil changes, etc).

Compression test? If compression is low that could explain the oil.

Does putting a stethoscope on anywhere isolate the noise to more than just pass side? The injectors tend to be relatively loud, you might just have one injector that's very noisy or clogged or something?

Rebuild can be done but it may be worth just finding a new engine if it's something serious or if there's multiple issues, and just move the good parts from your engine to the replacement (timing bits, etc).

 

With the chains off. The noise is loudest under the car near where the transmission and engine connect but more on the engine side. Ticking gets faster with reving the engine then I think it gets quieter at higher rpm but I think the engine noise drowns out the ticking. Also did a leak down test when I got the car running after I got the car and all held psi didn't lose any and the compression was good don't remember the psi it made

 

Just a random thought but is it possible that the fasteners for the flywheel to torque convertor are loose or the area around the bolt hole cracked. The ticking maybe from flexing.

 

I actually have a similar ticking noise on my car, a ticking at idle that develops once the engine is very thoroughly at operating temp, coming from under the car, seems like that same flywheel area. Tick happens once per engine revolution, rpm dependent, seems to disappear above 1500ish rpm but it's hard to hear over the engine. No luck stethoscoping a more specific area down. Kind of difficult to get a wrench in there to check bolts, but I wouldn't be surprised if avern had the cause of that correct.

It's the last big unknown noise I have left to solve. Unfortunately the jag's been parked in the driveway for the forseeable future, so it may be a while before I can justify really digging into it...

 

Well when I get to the rear main seal since it's leaking I'll check that. And I'll try to clean breather when it cools down here it's going to get to 100 for the weekend and next week

 

When it comes to knocking noices from the engine i also had a scare after doing the same job as you did.. chains, tensionets etc.. When the Engine was running on idle i had a, in my ears, a quite loud knocking from the right side of the engine.. and i could not figure out where it was coming from just by sticking my head down and listen..
It turned out to be one of the coilpacks that did not sit tight in its place due to the brass ferrule that had started to come loose from the plastic cover.


When running the engine with the cover over the coilpacks removed, the noice dissapeared when i put my thumb on one of the coilpacks..


The fix is simple though.. you need to pull the loose inserts out, clear/clean the hole carefully with a drill, sized so it just clears the hole a little, NOT making it any bigger, clean both the hole and the brass insert with a mean solvent and then refit in a good glue...


I used Araldite and let it sit over night. Put a tape for protection, cut a hole in tape, put some Araldite in the hole and some on the insert and then push it down all the way untill it sits flush, carefully wipe overflow Araldite. In order to not push Araldite up trough the theads in the insert, i put the screw all the way in with a tad of grease on it.. (make sure its Clean on the outside!)


Since i found one loose i checked all the remaining ones and refitted 2-3 more of them the same way..


Theese plastic covers Jaguar came up with, and the way they fitted the brass inserts, are in my opinion, an embarrassing designflaw.


/E