Nice.

Btw no spring compressor needed for rear shocks. A very easy job actually if you follow the tips in this forum

Hey guys,

Sorry for the delayed update, been a bit under the weather this week. That being said, I was able to get 200 miles on the Jag over the weekend and it drives like a dream! Last weekend I've replaced both the driver and passenger door latches so now I can get out through the drivers side.

I went ahead and told the shop that I'd handle the Rear Shocks as the estimate came back super high. Additionally, I've gone ahead and ordered all new rotors and brake pads which I'll do at the same time.

It does look like the inner tie rod needs to be replaced, and ultimately I figured this would be a good time to just replace the Rack due to mileage and I'll go ahead and do the hydraulic hoses at the same time as that doesn't appear to be to difficult of a job.

Also, it appears that the hood release bracket broke on me (the cable is just fine). I've gone ahead and ordered a replacement that will get me going again from Jag bits.

However, I do have one problem with the doors unlocking. The unlock operation does not work on the drivers door handle (New cable pic in the first picture), though proper unlock operation works just fine on the passenger side. The Drivers door opens just fine with the new cable, but will simply not unlock the doors as it's expected. The unlock button in the center console appears to work just fine when not in park as designed though. Manually pulling up on the door unlock knob of the drivers side doesn't appear to unlock it either.

Is this a potential door latch micro switch issue?

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Hey guys, thought I'd do a bit of an update.

• Added the Side Marker Indicators to the fenders as I think they look quite a bit better, and are generally safer as people around me can see when I'm changing lanes / turning
• Went ahead and installed the rear shocks as well as new KYB isolators.
  • Found that the Right Hand Side did not have an foam isolator at all which caused the car to sit a bit lower on that side
• Installed new Drilled and Slotted rotors with new brakes, stopping feels so much better now
• Added the Bluetooth Audio adapter from DiscountCarStereo.com (A2DIY-JAG98)
  • Keeping the OEM look is huge for me
  • Sound quality is excellent, I mounted the receiver under the liner in the center console
• Installed a new Bosch Steering rack and Hydraulic lines
  • There was quite a bit of play in the old rack, this helped the car significantly

Overall, absolutely enjoying it! Fuel mileage is around 21MPG on the highway, 18-ish City. Took it on an 8 hour drive to Dallas and have absolutely no complaints outside of some work on the drivers door micro-switch I need to work on.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...e0695744db.jpg
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I barely get those MPG figures on full sized UK gallons, never been able to work out why I don't get the ones I should. Every other Jag I've had has done the book figures the way I drive them.

Here in the States in the northern regions, they have a winter fuel mix which hampers fuel mileage. Then there's the old, when have you checked your plugs last (wouldn't hurt to regap them) and also your parts load breather. Check your intake before the filter to see if the lead going into the fender may be obstructed. Also, review your vacuum lines for chafing/cracking or loose fitment from drying out around the inlet...even if it's not, it wouldn't hurt to nip about 5mm or so off for a surer fit or new lines. The air draw of the SC can create these weeping points that aren't kicking a hard code yet, but your seeing it with your mileage.
Check the seal on your fuel cap and make sure both of your fuel pumps are working. This should be easily noticeable when you accelerate hard and your takeoff seems sluggish vs a crisp get off. Not knowing the age of your pumps, nor if you've ever replaced them (astonishing by all means), the impellers may be giving up the ghost. Do a fuel pressure test as well.
Also check your and/or replace the purge canister valve (#8 below), just in front of the right rear wheel on the charcoal canister, it's literally a 10-15 minute job to replace... 5 minutes to get it on the ramp. I believe it's the same side for your Euro model.
Now, most everything I listed should give you a code normally, but it's not a given it will.


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Cheers, sounds a good list to check when it's warmer outside. I know I lose a bit running E10 fuel, but the differences I've seen to other engines wouldn't account for all the difference I see here.

I can discount a few of them already. Pumps where replaced not long after I got it (4 years ago) as the secondary had died. The purge valve gave me issues, I replaced it & it gave issues again as I couldn't get a new one. So I gutted it, it looks complete but it's always open to the atmosphere, meaning no tank vacuum or pressure issues. Plugs I did check & regap a couple of years ago, so only 3-4k miles ago, but always worth looking again if fiddling with stuff.

I also stripped & cleaned the rear callipers last year so I know they aren't dragging. It got new front callipers at the same time as they had seized, which got it back to 16mpg around town & 22mpg on a run which is the best I've ever got running at 70mph on cruise. Oh & another one early on that made it worse was the inlet coolant pump fuse had gone so the car was retarding everything to avoid blowing up.

I'll have to have a read up on the part load breather.

Finally, apologies for being offtopic on the thread about your car.