Hi

I need some help

The lock mechanism and interior door cable broke on drivers side within a week of each other

I bought a cable from Welch and a used lock actuator on EBay

I replaced both

The door now opens from the inside and the door locks

But

The door does not open from outside

The handle protrudes slightly and will not open latch

Suggestions welcome

 

I'm probably not going to be too much help, if any, but you said you replaced the interior door latch cable and the lock actuator.

I would start with checking the connection between the exterior latch cable end to see if it was knocked out of place. If it's disconnected, then that wold explain why the door won't open and if it's disconnected and then the space noramally taken up by the connection to the latch is not extended and would give the outer handle a bit more cable and that could explain why the handle protrudes slightly.

The outer door handle cable end may be out of place or broken off now too...

I've never had the doors apart on a Jag, but have on domestics. I'm just spit-balling and trying to help. Maybe if you go through what I just recommended, the actual culprit will reveal itself. Keep us posted!

 

Thanks for the feedback

Based on your advice I backtracked my steps

The exterior door latch cable hooks to the actuator

This cable is is plastic piece that screws on to the cable

In simple terms, the adjustment was off, too strong - I disconnected the actuator - lined everything up - and then reconnected

Everything works as it should

Now- if I fixing that rear rattle I've been chasing for 4 years was that easy......

 

Glad to hear you found it. I had no adjustable! The rattle is rough... lol... have someone else drive on a bumpy road and see if its something that fell down in between some of the springs or under one of those seats latch covers or something to that effect. A penny under the seat bolt cover will rattle and you will never see it. Again, I have never taken the seeds out of a Jaguar. But, its just a thought. Best of luck.

 

"Now- if I fixing that rear rattle I've been chasing for 4 years was that easy......"

Rattles drive me nuts, too. If it is not the lower rear shock mounts (cost $350 to install new shocks and mounts to prove that weren't it), try some silicon grease on the rubber grommets that holds the mufflers at the rear of the car. Every couple of weeks you will find me on my back lubing the damn things, but silence is golden.

The crappy upper brake light also rattles . . . but so do both shoulder and knee joints (age matters!).

Now, if this was a Range Rover Sport, I could tell you about twenty different rattle points . . .

 

"All annoying squeaks, knocks and rattles can easily be silenced very cheaply by the volume knob on the radio"
If I remember correctly, that was rule number 4 on how to treat company cars that was on the workshop wall.