Great, I will do that!

Can I rule out the d-4 if it's always kept on "D" vs. shifting? Maybe a silly questions, but thought i'd ask.

 

Any other suggestions for my P1516/failsafe?

Don't think it's neutral safety switch - starts & shifts normally

Don't think it's D-4 - J-gate operates normally

Rotary switch - cleaned but not sure how to test???

Last option is "gear selector cable setting incorrect" - What is protocol here?

 

still getting codes? Have you cleared them after doing any 'repairs' or cleaning to see if they stay cleared?

 

Yep, I've cleared them after every test drive but get the failsafe a nearly the exact point on the highway every time.

Code only appears at highway speeds.

 

I followed what StrateLoss said and it cleared all my "errors". At first I got the Engine Light on...and the commentsurate "Restricted Performance". Then things went down hill from there. The red light above the odometer went on...the Brake Light illuminated, the display was showing something about the transmission (I can't recall the actual display works)...but the results was I could shift from Park to Reverse....in fact I could move the shifter...it was locked.

I hooked up my Autel reader and got the code P1642. Anyway, I did what StrateLoss advised about grounding out the capacitors and resetting the ECU by touching the Positive and Negative cables together for 10 minutes (BOTH WERE REMOVED THE BATTERY FIRST). That cleared the transmission lock (and another fault that I can't recall right now..ABS something). I hooked up the battery again and still had the ENGINE LIGHT illuminated. I cleared all errors with my reader one last time and that cleared the engine light and restricted performance. Then I took it out for a drive. ALL BETTER!!!! No more faults and it drove as designed.

Michael~
2002 XJ8 VDP

 

Oooppps! The end of the first paragraph of my last posting should have read "could not shift from Park to Reverse...in fact I could not move the shifter...it was locked"

 

Tried the battery thing. Made no difference.

 

What is the fuel trim? I just changed my fuel pump on my 99 XJ8 and the car starts but then stops in 10-20 seconds. Seems like its not getting enough fuel. I disconnected the battery as a last resort and letting it stay disonnected for 24 hours and see what happens. Didn't kink any lines, checked the fuel filter, all fuses too. So could it be this fuel trim that needs to be reset? What does a fuel trim do? Thanks.

 

Could be a defective fuel pump right out of the box.

There is a fuel pressure test point on the fuel rail.

 

Fuel trim is set by O2 sensor input to the ECM. Disconnecting the battery causes loss of memory but it mostly regains it within 30 seconds of starting.

It does sound like loss of fuel pressure. Put a fuel pressure gauge on the Schrader valve then chase the electrical problem. Did you replace the fuel filter?

 

No I didn't replace the fuel filter yet, but I disconnected it and was able to blow through both sides so I put it back in and gave it a shot. We've made progress, at first we couldn't get it to start at all. Then after tinkering we got it to start, but it quickly shuts off. I replaced the fuel pump, the link line, and the entire assembly that has that blue/ green flange on top of the tank.

The fuel pump does come on when I turn the key to the on position. When I replaced it I accidently pulled the line that feeds to the filter from the back of the tank. I found that out the 1st time I tried to start it and pump fuel all over the ground. After cleaning up that mess I got it all connected properly. I disconnected the battery yesterday evening and haven't messed with it since.

 

Well after leaving the battery off for a day, still nothing. I looked all over the vehicle for a fule shut off switch but can't find one either. The fuel definately makes it to the front of the vehicle, but doesn't seem like the injectors aree doing their job. Anybody know if there is a shut off switch somewhere? I looked in the back seat under passenger and driver side but only see fuses and relays, looked in the trunk, look under the dash, don't see anything. Two days ago I had a 'failsafe' message on the odometer, it went away (probably cause I disconnected the battery), but I wonder if the car shuts off the fuel at the injectors as a failsafe measure (like if its in an accident or something). Well in the meantime, I've spent about $500 on the pump, the valve, and the link lead. Who would have thought changing the pump was the easy part? I know its going to be something stupid that gets the car running again. For now I'm at a stand-still and my wife is driving my truck around.

 

Ok, so I've changed the fuel filter and still nothing. I then bought a fuel pressure gauge, no pressure. Someone suggested a cylinder wash, I tried that, no luck. Any suggestions for a next step? Thanks guys.

 

Swick, a couple contradicting statements above. First you say the fuel is making it to the front of the vehicle, then the next post 'no pressure'. Can you be more specific about the pre-ignition pressure and post-startup pressure?

 

The fuel is making it to the rail, it just dribbles out though. The car won't start so I can't get a post-start up reading. But when I connect the gauge it is zero, and when I attempt to start the car it remains at zero.

 

You should have between 34-41 psi at the rail as it trys to start. So, you have a fuel pump issue of some sort. I would start by seeing if you have 12 volts to the pump circuit. Look at the fuses. Others suggest swpping relays around.
40 psi aint no dribble.

 

Need some help....

Bright lights don't turn on. When I switch them on, the blue indicator light on the instrument panel goes on, but no bright lights. I can't figure out which fuse it could be. I think I looked at them all (all were good).

Does someone know exactly which fuse it could be...and if not a fuse, what else it could possibly be.

Many thanks,
M~
2002 XJ8 VDP

 

you need a fuel pump

 

IF YOU WANT CODE HELP PLEASE:

Put the letter in front of the number. Jag uses two 1516's. The first one is C1516 and the other is P1516.

My Equus 3130 Scan Tool reads generic and manufacturer codes including Jaguar codes, including transmission. Read the features charts before buying. Also, watch out, some that read ABS codes only do it for a few manufacturers.

Broken wires or bad connections need to be checked for. You do know that rodents love to chew wires.

 

First, before throwing parts at your car; it dents the body and the wallet. Listen as you open the gas cap. If you hear a big hiss, try starting with the cap off. If it starts and runs, then something is preventing air from getting into the tank. That would need to be fixed. Next, go to the trunk and find fuses #7 and #15. These power the two fuel pumps. YES TWO. Then check out relays #1 and #4. These control the fuel pumps. NOTE: The two fuel pumps are for the super charged engine. I don't see much info about your car.

Yes, you need a lot more squirt of gas at the fuel rail.