Attached are 3 images. Looking down between the SC and the thermostat housing at the snout of the supercharger, you will see a black flat hex head screw. Loosen this and it should be easily moved with fingers.
I tried to simulate the angle I used to get most of the oil out.
Also the extract and fill tubes I used.

Hope this helps some.

Dave

 

Jaguar doesn't say you can't do it. They also make an assumption ... that the supercharger is sealed for life, and when it dies, you replace it with a new one and fill it on the bench.

However, to settle your question, you can lay a torpedo level on another suitable surface that is on the same plane ... the top edge of the valve cover.

The difference will be minimal and would not require a lift or ramps. A bottle jack would be quite sufficient.

Having said that, there are three mitigating factors:

-- any tilt of the engine is going to be higher at front and lower at back

-- the oil chamber is vertical so a given tilt will affect volume less than the same volume chamber in a horizontal chamber

-- the fill plug would be on the high side of any tilt

There are those that are happy to do maintenance as well as they can, and those who only want to follow "shop procedure".

 

Plums: Please do whatever you want with your own car - and leave me to do the same ----- and don't assume when you can't.


Maybe someone else who takes a SC out can answer my question -- Wish I had done so when I had the opportunity at the dealer a few years ago.

 

I found this image of the Eaton SC with its snout removed on the EuroToys website. I know certain refilling requirements have been argued in this thread, but again a picture always helps me understand. It does appear that the fluid chamber is tall and narrow and therefore would not be too sensative to a less-than-perfectly flat posture when refilling. One question, which way is up?

 

Good question our engines have the S/C installed upside down as the charge is routed through the intercoolers, the coupler fixes to the cog with the dowels, means that's the snout/pulley side.
Your picture shows it as it is on the engine. I've included a picture to show the snout side.

Below the cogs is a fluid sump, the cogs pick up oil. Too much and it could impact on bearing seals, extra heat and less power transfer.
Too low and it's the same again, except the S/C snout bearings will not as last long.

The cogs give us that compelling noise.

 

Hi everyone thanks for the s/c oil change info I have just replaced the top and bottom ball joints and wheel bearings both sides my 95 XJR has travelled 136000klm no major probs everything works full service history I have owned her for 6 yrs or should I say she has owned ME next task s/c oil change Jimmy

 

Hi everybody just got new oil for Eaton M90 s/c had to go to Holden dealer $93 for two bottles is this right or can you use a similar product from another manufacturer thanks Jimmy

 

Hi everybody just changed the s/c oil,the old oil was very dark brown and had a very strong smell not pleasant new oil in no noticable difference on sound or performance but peace of mind goes a long way will update on any developments jimmy

 

I changed mine 2 weeks ago.

the old oil had a very unpleasant smell like rotten pork meat as what I can describe.

I could feel the S/C making much smoother noise instantly

 

Great thread, thanks everyone. I tackled this myself a couple of weeks ago, and although I'd be kidding myself if I said I noticed a difference in the running of the car, I certainly feel better about it having seen the colour of the oil I pulled out!

 

Yikes! Buy it on Ebay. Even with shipping to AU it is going to be cheaper. The bottles are very light and small. Get the genuine stuff from GM. Or, if FORD has it, then it is the same stuff. In North America, most FORD owners needing supercharger oil buy the GM because it is cheaper, and always in stock.

You could also use one particular brand of aviation turbine oil, but it is not usually packaged in small quantities.

 

The opening post was about changing supercharger oil. And not necessarily by the book. In fact the book "sealed for life" == "don't change it at all".

An attempt to answer your query in a reasonable, logical fashion with known facts is not an assumption. If you do not wish to accept the information that is up to you. If the method described is not up to your standards, then by all means, remove your supercharger and measure to your satisfaction.

 

Plums, I thought the information was very handy, and there is no way that I would personally recommend removing the supercharger just to drain and refill the oil. That said, if you had the blower off the car anyway, it would be more convenient!

My only doubt was where the fill plug sat relative to the level of the fluid (i.e. if they are bench-filled, I thought it might be possible that when installed the fluid line sat above the plug). In my case this certainly wasn't true, so I had confidence removing all the fluid I could, and then pumping the new stuff back in (got around 7oz in). Now maybe there is more than 7.3 oz of fluid in my supercharger at the moment, but I doubt it's far off, and I imagine it's doing a far better job than the last stuff was!

 

Now, aren't you glad you put the paper towel down there in case the plug got dropped? Saw it in your pictures.

 

I certainly am - I realised how important that was after I dropped a torx key trying to remove the plug!

 

Wow was that bottle a blast from the past 1958 or so. I remember bottles of ???? can't recall the exact name but it was the same type oil 3 in one. Thanks for sharing!

 

Hi the bottle thing with extension looks like the "ideal tool" for s/c oil removal and replacement what is actually in the bottle as a Scotsman, is important, you mention 3 in one oil, in the UK in the 80,s this was a fix it all from sewing m/c to bicycle gears and chains this is not the correct oil for your Jaguar s/c not being smart just a word of caution cheers everybody love this forum Jimmy XJR95

 

This thread helped me out tonight changing my oil. I appreciate the data and information posted by several in there.

 

 

I pulled the air inlet and tried to flush the S/C oil. But the hex is not 6mm like a drawing I found showed.
From the people here that changed the oil what is the size on a X350? A 5mm hex looked right but never went in. A 4mm was too small. Since Eaton is a U.S. Company, is this a SAE screw?