Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum (https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/)
-   XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III (https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xj6-xj12-series-i-ii-iii-16/)
-   -   Break Stuck - 1985 XJ6 (https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xj6-xj12-series-i-ii-iii-16/break-stuck-1985-xj6-218243/)

mikega 05-24-2019 06:36 PM

Front Break Stuck - 1985 XJ6
 
Hello colleagues,

I am having trouble with my 1985 XJ6, the front passenger side tire break stuck, it has been removed and repair for 3x times but still no improvement.

Could you pls tell me what could be the possible cause and how it could fixed?

Whilst driving, the break becomes very hot and sticks to the disk drum.

Please help.

Mike

Jose 05-24-2019 06:56 PM

have you tried replacing the entire caliper? obviously it was not repaired.

Jag-o-nomic 05-24-2019 07:01 PM

Hi Mike,

I'm hoping it is your choice of words "brake drum" as these cars were fitted with disc brakes all round.

Two totally different systems.

That heat you describe is caused by friction.

If you do have drums, then some PO has fitted something that shouldn't be there, and so you could have a sticking / trailing brake shoe.

If you do have disc brakes then it sounds like your caliper isn't releasing the brake pad from the disc after you apply your bakes.

You may have too large brake pads fitted so that they are always resting / rubbing against the disc?

A longer shot is a badly warped brake disc, but you would have an inkling of this by a pulsing of the brake pedal when you push down on it.

I would suggest taking off your offending caliper and have it inspected and or rebuilt by a brake specialist.

Cheers,

Nigel

Joey T 05-24-2019 07:10 PM

Hi, A similar thing happened to me. Turned out to be corrosion from a break line bracket crimped the line to the caliper. Causing the fluid to be restricted when you let off the break petal. This made the pads stay engaged to the rotor. At first it would release after a bit, not without some break burn however, it only got worse. So, in a nut shell, check the lines to that caliber. Good luck.

iramphal 05-25-2019 07:03 AM

I had the same issue of a corroded brake line on a Nissan Maxima. I assumed it was the caliper and replaced it only to find it made no difference. Ended up replacing the line, when I could not bleed the system properly. From then on, I always replace the flex hoses whenever I do a brake job. Im already in the area and the hoses are cheap.

kudzu 05-25-2019 05:36 PM

Hi, I second the advice to change the flexible / rubber brake hose connecting the caliper to the body hard lines ( check those for damage / kinks / crushing too, especially if the car has even been towed / hauled. The hooks / chains can crush them ). I had a number of customers with similar problems almost all due to the inside of the rubber hoses swelling shut and preventing the brake fluid from returning to the master cylinder. Given that the are USUALLY not too expensive, it's a good idea to replace them when changing a caliper.

Cheers,
Brian

pjprofili 05-25-2019 07:40 PM


Originally Posted by kudzu (Post 2075953)
Hi, I second the advice to change the flexible / rubber brake hose connecting the caliper to the body hard lines ( check those for damage / kinks / crushing too, especially if the car has even been towed / hauled. The hooks / chains can crush them ). I had a number of customers with similar problems almost all due to the inside of the rubber hoses swelling shut and preventing the brake fluid from returning to the master cylinder. Given that the are USUALLY not too expensive, it's a good idea to replace them when changing a caliper.

Cheers,
Brian

I second that. Rubber brake hoses definitely swell. If you've rebuilt the calipers that's definitely the most likely cause.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:13 PM.


© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands