First take on my "new" SIII
 

So, here we are. I've finally had a chance to do a first run through on assessing what issues exist with my new SIII Sovereign. The list so far:

1. Windows drop/raise very slowly, driver's door is the worst. Will check switch contacts and silicon lube the channels

2. Sunroof not working, will check fuse & switch

3. Driver's seat height adjust not working, will check fuse & switch

4. Tank filler caps will not lock. Key won't turn in either lock, lube hasn't worked. Weird issue as I don't believe the locks have been changed and the key operates the other locks without any problem:icon_shrug:

5. Handbrake pretty useless on a decent slope, even though it passed roadworthy test (common?)

6. Boot lid not sealing well, may need adjusting or new rubber (common?)

7. Rear bumper has minor damage i.e. the middle section appears to have been pushed in slightly, distorting the rubber. Would like to straighten or replace

8. Pepperpot wheel rims are entirely scuff-free, but could do with refinishing once I can source the right shade of silver paint.

This is all minor stuff, the electrical items being no surprise. I will sort these soon. Haven't been able to spend much quality time with her yet and other things may still be revealed, but overall I'm thrilled to bits with this machine. It drives beautifully & pulls like a freight train, the T700 is a dream, ice cold air, fuel tank switching is fine, all gauges work, and she leaves no marks on the floor (no litter tray required yet!). All testimony to its solid maintenance history. When I get around to doing a photo shoot I'll post a few pics.

Cheers,

Tony,
I think your car has 3 keys (mine does):
Doors, Trunk/boot (also locks glove box), gas caps.
All these keys may fit all other holes (mine do) but no function occurs when turned.
(';')

the door key normally opens or locks the glovebox, gas caps, and trunk in 1984 models, two keys.

the windows aren't exactly fast up or down, lubing the channels helps reduce friction, but otherwise they are slow.

handbrake is usually not very effective, but if parking on a slope, apply handbrake first tightly, and last place transmission in Park. Helps to turn the front tires against the curve.

sunroof and driver's seat motor are usually a blown fuse, the seat fuse is hidden so you can't find it. Moctezuma's Revenge.

sunroof can be opened and closed manually if you have the little crank tool that came with the car but which the previous owner didn't know what it was for.

There's nothin' like a good Series III :)

My experience with Series IIIs and XJSs is that the parking brake will grip fiercely if everything is lubed, adjusted, exercised, and the pads are properly bedded. Mine would hold the car against 2500 rpm.

That's as a *parking brake*.

Don't expect much if used as an *emergency brake* :)

Cheers
DD

Hi LnrB, I only got 2 keys types with the car, plus a spare set of the same pair. One is ignition, the other is a round headed key which according to the handbook fits door, boot, glove box and filler caps - so it should fit. The book mentions a third key (dished head) which fits the door and filler caps, but I do not have that key.
Very curious! I guess an auto locksmith will be on the cards at some point :icon_doh:

Tony, I have disassembled the lock of an SIII gas cap and cannibalized parts (one of mine wouldn't lock either but for different reasons). It shouldn't be hard as you are able to open the cap. The whole mechanism is only held together by a screw on the bottom of the lock.

From the bottom, remove the screw that holds the locking lever. At this point you can insert a fine pin, wiggling it around as needed, to raise the brass locking tabs (there are 4) and extract the cylinder out the top of the cap.

Be Very careful not to lose any of the tabs and springs. I wrapped clear tape around the ones I worked on to keep all the bits together until I could use them on my locks.

WARNING!! Lay a cloth over the tank opening before you do this to prevent dropping a screw, spring or whatnot into the tank.

Then you can take the locks and key and have them redone, or do them yourself, trading tabs around until you have an operational cylinder with your key.
(';')

Nice! very Nice! You list is very similar to mine is respect to how many things on it when I got it. I've slowly wiped most of them away and many others have surfaced but I constantly re-prioritize and drive it daily. I freaking love my jag!!! My wife gets frustrated with all the $$ I spend on it to keep it going, but like I said before "NO RECIEPTS" and I always remind her that that the jag is the contributing factor to the money that I make.
I wish you the best of luck on your repairs. You will get all the info you need(for the most part) on this site to keep it on the road. There is a wizard here and there are also many folks who have "been there done that" and everyone is very helpful and willing to share.
The parking brake I rarely ever use. in actuality the "park" position is a metal bar that goes ito gears and actually Jams it so it CANT move. if it does move in "park" then you have transmission issues. In all the case I've heard of cars rolling away when they were parked it was because the owner didn't actuallly put it in park.
My windows are all slow, but always work. I wouldn't worry about them being slow.
P.S. all I ever do is give 2 cents here and there. feel free to tell me I'm wrong!

Thanks for your encouragement amaezing! The good folk on this site are indeed very helpful. These cars are something of a "tease" i.e. even if you know what's wrong there's a constant reminder of the maker's sense of humour at play with components concealed in weird places, difficult access etc...

Many thanks for your detailed guidance Elinor. This could be the best solution. At least the caps are unlocked, whereas the reverse would have seen me panicking! Contacted the PO who says he never had a third key, nor did he even think about locking the caps. Seems the quiet country town he's in doesn't experience the kind of problems that make us city dwellers want everything locked and the draw bridge pulled up!

Thanks Jose. From what I've been able to find out, the in-line fuse for the seat is under the carpet on LHS of console - yet to have a look! Would you have any idea where the sunroof fuse might be? I can't turn anything up about this unless I'm looking straight past it...

Hi Tony

Sounds nice, looking forward to seeing the car next run.

My windows were the same, Some silicone and some exercise does seem to bring them back to life.

I have found the handbrake just average, but havent given it any extra love, so I imagine that Dougs comment (apart from the fact that Doug said it so its probably right) is on the money.

I was just looking at the S57 diagrams for the sunroof and it appears that the sunroof runs through a breaker that is in common with the windows. So it appears that its more likely to be a switch, motor, wiring issue that something blown/popped. It will be interesting to see what the more expert guys think.

PS: I have T700 envy :-) that will be the next trans if the T400 ever decides to die.

Hi Steve, I have no doubt at all that Doug is right. I will have it adjusted whenever I take it to Ratcliffe's for a major. I'm sure the RWC testers don't try handbrakes on a real incline! Just means that at present I can't hold it on my steep driveway, even to wash it. Always hate the thought of it holding almost solely on the trans!

Graphite, not Silicone in Channels
 

Hi Tony,

I also have slow moving windows on my 85 so I looked into a remedy.

A couple of independent specialists here in Melbourne pointed out to me that although Silicone Lube may probably make a bigger initial difference, its' properties attract dust and other particles, so that crud will be more prevalent using this preparation, especially when you drive with the window down.

Graphite powder on the other hand does not attract dust and so will be better in the long run.

More dirt means more obstruction and slower moving windows and you can't get either silicone or graphite out of the cord material without replacing said channels.

I used graphite on the weekend. The windows do move a little faster, but that is relative to snails in the garden.

It was also a bit messy as some dust still settled on surfaces even though I was pretty thorough with laying cloth around the work areas as I went. Nothing a decent wash and clean couldn't fix though.

Happy motoring

Nigel

Good stuff powdered graphite, I used to use it on sporting gear for that same reason of not attracting dirt. Only potential downside (pun accidental) is that its not good near electrical connections, motors etc.

Tony, I am familiar with that incline. I got my S1 to hold with the handbrake only after rebuilding the handbrake calipers. The handbrake holds rock solid if adjusted properly as Doug said, but looking at the pads certainly would not use as an emergency brake.

Sounds like you don't have too many issues to sort so far, pics will be good to see. :icon_beerchug:

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Tony,
1) I have heard that removing the power window Switches from the ski slope, dismantling them, "cleaning" them, and re-lubing them, makes a difference in how fast the windows goes up and down. I tried it once with one of the switches and it made little difference if any. Not to mention I spent hours dismantling the center console to access the switch. I believe the best approach is to remove the door cards and spray the motor linkages with some type of lubricant.

2) the Sunroof motor has no fuse as such but there are two Thermal Breakers and a Relay located on the "Components" bracket which I am assuming will be on the passenger's side in a RHD car. However, those are "shared" with the Power Windows, so if your power windows are all working, there might be no issue with the Thermal Breakers or the Relay. Then it might be the sunroof motor itself which could be disconnected or bad. To access the rear of the motor and its wiring, remove the inner upholstery panel in the boot, (the panel behind the rear seat Back), behind which you will find many of the car's electronics. The Sunroof motor is exactly at the center. You might also take a look behind the Ski Slope to see if the sunroof SWITCH wiring plug is itself connected or disconnected.

3) my car only has two keys, (picture below). Could you scan the part of the book where it talks about THREE Keys? Maybe the factory supplied 3 keys for the Australian market cars?? Also, look under the front, passenger side wing, near the headlamp, towards the top, to see if you have a Spare Key still there. There will be a metal bracket, inside which the factory placed a spare key. It would be a miracle if it was still there but it is worth checking.

Third Key
 

Hi Jose,

Third key was a valet key which opened the door but not the boot (trunk) and from memory the glove box.

Idea being that when you left your car with the mechanic, you left the ignition key and valet key so that no one could access the wads of cash in the glove box, nor the dead bodies in the boot!!

Bit of a bugger if the reason the car went in was because of a suspected faulty fuel pump.

The hidden key in the wheel guard by the factory prior to shipping became a little too well known to the wrong people, and so it is fair to say that there are none in their original place now.

I know for a fact that here in Melbourne at least one dealer removed said key before delivery to the first customer.

Cheers,

Nigel

Thanks to each of you guys for the tips on windows & sunroof etc. Plenty for me to look into!

Graphite on the channels and lube on the linkages may be the first things to try for the windows.

Jose, the 2 keys in your pics are like the ones I have, and the handbook reference to keys is shown below. So it seems a third key must have existed at some point in time and was probably the valet key as Nigel has mentioned, giving access to door and filler caps only.

I have looked underneath for the factory hidden key and not surprisingly it is missing!

Jose, I forgot to mention - I do have the small crank handle for the sunroof. In fact it is placed in the factory tool kit which is strapped in the boot and has never been used. It even still contains the stick tyre gauge!

Cheers,

You all keep saying Valet key. I understand the theory, but i couldn't have been a valet key!!! How in the heck is the valet suppose to park the car if he/she can't start the motor???? Valet keys are typically door and ignition only, no trunk, no petrol, no glove box...etc...
Oh, but the old lucas and the great ideas I'm guessing