LUMPED Question
 

This is a query for ALYN, ICSAMERICA, ROGER MABRY or any other forum member.
As mentioned on one of my prior post I originally lumped my car with a carbureted Chevy350/700R4.
Since then, I have converted it to TBI and I am very happy with the results.
Presently, I am running the car with an Edelbrock open air filter meaning that I am pulling hot air from the engine compartment.
While I ponder whether I should go to the next step and replace the present engine with one with TPI, Is there an air horn that I can purchase to fit the Throttle Body Unit? I would like to pull cool outside air into the system.
Space is limited and the Edelbrock Air filter I am using is 14" diameter and 3" thick. Will post a pic of the Air Cleaner when I get to the car.
Any info will be greatly appreciated.

Hey ,.. This is what I am using on my 350 TBI.
Its from a 90's Caprice with TBI. This is not my car in pic. I simply could not find a pic of my cars engine compartment with the air filter in place. got some... just can't find them at the moment.
As usual you have to do a bit of creative snorkel cutting,.. Mine gets its cool air down low just in back of the radiator support member.
I get good low temps in engine compartment with the functioning louvers - air gets sucked out and cool air is pulled in in back of rad. I think the cooling fan also pushes air out of the louvers ... can notice difference in air flow coming out of louvers , with fan on / fan off. Anyway the snorkel portion has a heat vent to help with cold start ups

This is my air cleaner setup that brings in cold air..custom made by a fellow Jag owner, will share the info if you are interested.
I made up the new TB hat and coupling.. the air cleaner is a K&N and fits in a carbon fiber adapter in the upright support..my
car is now converted with EZ-EFI 2.0 and like yours, was a big improvement over the well sorted carb. Can start is with the just
turning the key - no throttle needed at all.

I used this air cleaner arrangement on the other S1 with LT1/700R as well, as it adapts well to a carb or TB.

Bringing in the outside air lets the engine use air that is 40+ degrees cooler when driving.

My old air cleaner like yours with the X top filter and all the other related stuff, Pertronix distributor, TV cable brackets and highly modified
QJet is going up for sale soon...just need the time to take photos..

Many options...

You can use something called a "carburator hat"... See these....
https://www.summitracing.com/search/...intake-plenums

Do an ebay search for a "Camaro Air Cleaner" or "Camaro HO air cleaner"
They sit low and have a great classic look. The dual snorkel flows great.

My efforts, time and money would go into a TPI conversion. I've done many. NOTHING from that era offers such simplicity with high drivability, fuel economy and low end torque. The 1227730 ECM and harness can control both the engine and TCC... If you're a speed demon... a totally stock TPI can flow enough for 400HP on a 383 even with a performance cam. This was dyno proven many years ago. Plus it's the coolest looking modern intake. You don't have to replace the engine, TPI can work on just about any SBC engine gen 1 or 2 with almost any camshaft.

Here's a good deal on a TPI becasue all the bits are there like injectors, TPS and throttle body.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/123068933667
I would expect it to cost about 900$ to do a TPI conversion. I've done many intake only swaps and the before and after feeling compared to TBI is night and day. You wont believe it's the same engine.

Personally I would stick with the TBI system. At one time I had all the necessary parts for both systems, but because the car has a 2.88 diff ratio and the rpm operating range would be under 2000 rpm for most of my daily driving, and I was looking for low end torque , I went with TBI and sold the TPI stuff.
Keep in mind there are 2 different versions of TPI - Mass Airflow and Speed Density with the Speed density version appearing around 1990 .

If you decide to change intake systems, I would recommend buying John Baechtel's Chevy TPI Fuel Injection Swapper's Guide book.

You will need the matching TPI manifold, ECM. wiring harness (TBI harness - 1227747 will not work unless you re-pin it to suit the 1227730 ECM)

TPI was meant to use a roller cam. Throttle bodies vary among TPI systems and fuel pumps need to be compatible - TBI fuel pump will not work.

Thank you all for your responses. With the leads given, I will start doing some research for the most compatible hat for my TBI. I am using the John Cars motor mount brackets, some of you are using other ones so I have to do some clearance measurement checks.
I will visit my favorite JY to see whats available and check the ones advertised on the various websites.
@Roger, I am interested on the info you have regarding the custom made one that you got. You can PM me the info when you can.
Thanks again.

On another note, I had used the original accelerator cable, cutting it down to size.
I am using the proper TBI accelerator/detent cable bracket and springs but I find that the accelerator cable is a little stiff/sticky. I have lubricated the cable. I can't remember how soft or stiff it was with the OE engine.
Given that the OE cable went to the passenger side of the car and it now resides on the driver side, I made sure that I left enough length so that the turns of the cable housing were gentle. I am suspicious that the cable is hanging up slightly in the housing.
I am thinking of purchasing a generic accelerator cable to replace the OE cable because if I purchase an OE cable it will be long. Any thoughts on this?

I am using an accelerator cable that runs from pedal in cabin, up through the firewall (near the brake booster) then forward through the TBI bracket mounted on engine, and then connects to the arm on throttle body (which has its own internal return spring. All on drivers side.
Can't remember where I got the cable but it works great. These are the little things that we all have to sort out.

My car is LT1 powered. Only a bit different, if at all as to the throttle cable.
I merely cut mine to fit. A bit fiddly, but no too much.


The trick came on affixing the bare end of the cable to the engine's capstan.
I merely drilled a bolt to simulate the lug on the GM cable. passed the cable through and used a hardware store cable lock to secure it. Just a little brass tube with a hole and a tapped hole on the side for a set screw.


Carl,

I'm chasing an accelerator internal wire for the original installed housing. stumbled onto motionpro.com. They are manufacturers of motorcycle cables and systems. Anyway if you are creative you may, as I did, find a proper length and ball size.


good luck geneo
1977 xj6c webers