New to Jaguar Questions
 

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...27e7992b25.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...cb11056829.jpg
Hello, hopefully posting in a reasonable location.
As the title says, I am new to Jags, and will be taking ownership of a 1976 XJ12 in the coming month. It's a gift from the owner of my company. He bought a hangar at one of the airports my company operates out of and everything in and around the hangar was included. He knows I was interested in it, and decided it best go to me. It was either me or pay someone to scrap it, so I literally had no option :-) . I am not shy of projects, I have restored and still working on a 1985 and 1986 Saab c900's (both turbos), and daily drive a 2006 Saab Aero while my wife drives a 2003 Saab. My first car was (and still own) a 1953 MG TD. I've had odds and ends with cars and motorcycles (almost all V4 bikes too) over the years and work as an aviation maintenance technician. I'd like to think I'm reasonable with tools and knowledge. I've always wanted an XJS V12 (1994 or newer of course), but could never spare the money. Being given a Jag is a whole different story. It's actually my wife's favorite style as well, so really a win win and will turn into her daily drive since the 2003 Saab is an absolute nightmare.

I've been poking around it extensively and the exterior body is near perfect, as is the interior. Rolling around the ground with a mirror and taking a look has given me very high hopes for the car. Rust is almost non-existent. The car has been sitting at the airport for almost 3 years, so I expected it to be worse. It's not concourse ready by any means, but no one would think it's bad at a local car show.

Popped open the bonnet and nothing jumped out at me as odd. Fluids were all still in there and within expected levels. No oil mixing (based on smell) and coolant looked OK. I know the cooling system is a major pitfall and recall hearing that the XJS' were common to fires in the right side of the engine bay. Going over it with my wife, it would seem practical to convert most of what I can to stainless braided AN line and silicone vacuum lines. That will be down the road, but I know I will need to address it. Also on the list is cutting off the cat converters. I don't have emissions testing in my area and have done it to my Saabs. Mostly because they're burnt out anyway, but exhaust flow is paramount. It would also seem logical to wrap the exhaust manifolds in titanium wrap to prevent further heat soak.

What I am here for is a couple of questions, what are major things I should address first? All fluids, plugs, plug leads, dizzy cap and applicable parts will be replaced. Standard items for any new car to my collection. Since it has been sitting, I will be spraying Kroil and some MMO in the cylinders to soak before I even think about hitting the starter. Of course it will all be drained and cycled to prevent hydro-lock, but corrosion is my arch-nemesis in my industry and will be dealt with accordingly.
Best tires for the application? Tire size recommendation? As you can tell by the pictures, it needs tires...
Interior is 9 out of 10, which dumbfounds me for sitting in the sun for so long. Any interior electrics that I will probably need to address?
Fuel system, best location to purge the fuel tanks? I could not spot fuel filters when looking around, but I have not been able to get it airborne to look further. Are fuel pumps a cause for concern? Are they in tank or gravity fed in-line somewhere?

I'm sure answers will pose more questions for me. Thank you in advance!

Got the odometer reading yesterday after forgetting to find it in the first place. I doubt it rolled over 100k based on how the seats look. It's sitting at 15,173 miles! Makes me a little more concerned that it overheated at some point, but I don't know yet.

I'm trying to find a decent resource for standard consumables. FCP Euro has quite a few things, but I'm also trying to keep my eye out for a cylinder head gasket or a full gasket kit. Does something like that exist? I noticed FCP sells a full kit for $180, but it's applicable for the XJS from 1981 and on, which to me indicates it's for the HE engine. Will the gaskets be applicable to the pre-HE engine?

everything is available. Check SNG Barrat USA store or UK store.

you can replace parts of the exhaust system with the european equivalents which came with no catalitycs.

in my car I sent a cat-less Y pipe and the two over-the-axle pipes to Jet Hot Coatings for their ceramic coat. It does lower exhaust temps.

Looks like you got a gem, not to mention a rare 12 cylinder version of the XJ sedan.

New to jaguar
 

That seems to be a sound old "survivor". Were it my car, I' develop a "punch" or "task" lMost of what I would include is in your narratives. And a huge boon is that your wife liked it. My dear departed loved hers! It is still in my garage. I drive it. A real delight.

Not sure as to the fuel system in your car. single pup or one for each tank. Check the boot aka "trunk". In the spare well aft of the tire. You may find the tank selector valve and a big filtet. If not, the pump s are in each tank.

There is a valence just aft of the rear wheels. They have hard rubber plugs. I tore mine up removing them. Then you can see the drain plugs. A large one and a smaller one within the large one. I intended only the large to drain. but, the large ones came out. No rust in mine, but some report goop there. Get new gaskets first. for use in replacing.

Big moment. Is the engine free? That is will it turn or is it stuck ? With a bar.

Good pan to refresh fuel hoses in the engine bay. Those are the source for the notorious engine fires.

I'd hesitate on cat removal. It severely limits where the car can be sold, if you should so choose. Good one are not much of a hindrance for the flow of a street engine.

Check out Dr. Gregory Andrachuk's Jagcare III. Much to learn there. Does your car include the driver's hand book and the maintenance manual? Much to learn there as well.

I've collected tons of Jag lore since 2001, when the car came to us. The "Modern Classic". Tons of enjoyment. Tons of challenge by unique engineering found here and there.

Electrickery Usually resolved in one of two ways. Exercise a lazy switch. Clean lube and tighten open connectors.

Climb under and see if the braided strap that grounds the engine to the chassis present and clean tighten and lube it,

right side of the car, just at the place that the trans and engine mate.
Carl

When I go to their site, the S2 XJ12 comes up with nothing, but the S1 and S3 does. When checking gaskets, I get 2 separate part numbers. I would assume the S3 is the HE part number.

Sourcing the EU style exhaust might be a little more difficult and costly than a cut and weld, but I will try and find some options. Keeping this original isn't a TOP priority, however, if it is viable I will do so.

Thanks for the tip, I'll be sure to check that out.

Rubber o-rings for the seals, crush gaskets, etc? Is it something that I could source from an assortment of seals rather than a specific part number?

I have yet to find this out, as per the intention of spraying the cylinder walls with Kroil first. The product was designed to free up frozen pistons in an R-985 in the Alaskan Tundra, it will be easy to free these up if necessary.

Problem is adapting the AN fittings to what I am assuming is typical flex line. Hard line would be easier since I can flair it and add an end fitting to adapt to AN line.

In my state and some surrounding, there is a year max for emissions testing, it really is not a concern.

I could not spot a maintenance manual or IPB, so I am on the hunt.

It's all about grounding!

you can get the european pipes in the US, check with Motorcars Ltd. in Texas where I got my Euro Y pipe.

https://www.motorcarsltd.com/jaguar-xj12-1976/

Hello,
Very nice example!
You're gonna have So much fun!
Welcome to our playroom from ElinorB.
(';')