oil pan gasket replacement
 

I'm replacing the upper and lower pan gaskets, considering just using RTV as I've never had a problem with that method in the past on other engines. Is the gasket totally necessary?

Also looking for a source for the o rings on the oil cooler return and oil thermostat housing. Any pointers? Thanks


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'85 5.3

Rather than RTV, I have had better luck using Loctite Flange Sealer, either #515 or 518. Doesn't need the curing time like RTV does.

The O rings are available from the usual specialist suppliers, or from any engineering supplies place. The Great Palm suggests Viton O rings as they do not harden over time, apparently.

Mine has NO gaskets, other than the head and exhaust manifold gaskets.

NO oil leaks.

Cleanliness in situ is a problem, as the smallest oil smear, finger print, etc will have the RTV not stick.

I used Red Hi-Temp RTV on mine, and still OK.

Proper application of RTV is mandatory for success, and TIME must be on your side to let it set off prior to final tightening, which by the way, is NOT super tight, just 2 flats past finger tight.

O/rings are anywhere as Greg has mentioned, and whilst you are that far into it, do the o/rings on the oil pump pipes.

Thanks for the tips fellas. I have had good luck with ultra black and red rtv in the past so I may go ahead with that. The loctite flange sealer looks pricey!!! But maybe it's worth it. It looks pretty awesome.

I'm going to do the oil pickup tube o-rings as suggested and anything else I can think of. With the engine on the stand I may as well take advantage of it. The valley cover gasket and rear oil banjo fittings need leaks fixed as well. I suspect the crank case vent system may be clogged considering how much it's leaking everywhere. I'm going to measure o-rings with calipers and try my luck sourcing them through the parts store. I'm not having luck finding those with the specialist websites, just one gasket or o-ring here or there. While I'm at this point I'm also going to replace the oil cooler hoses by welding -12AN bungs on the feed and return ports and use an aftermarket cooler and hoses.

Is this a 12? I can't tell.

i did my 5.3 oil pan and sandwich plate with the fancy Ford 6.0 gortex gaskets and it's been leak free for a decade. No additional sealant, just the gaskets.

it is a 12, a filthy tired old lump in need of sprucing up. I have powerwashed a lot of the gunk off but it's still pretty bad. I will be updating the wiring, fuel rail, water rails and cross over pipe, fabricating headers, a new simplified cooling/bleed system, and possibly making intake plenums after I get these oil leaks sorted.

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Be careful with the banjo bolts at the cam feed fittings.

The bolts are too short, and grip by about 3 threads only, and those threads strip without human intervention.

The, holes in the camblock have a lot of threads deeper in those holes, so clearly another "use what is in the parts bin" approach by Jaguar. There are some longer banjo bolts on ?bay at time to time, or make your own as I did.

The joint of the cam blocks to the cylinder head is a gasketless seal, and it leaks, It is a MAJOR task to remove and reseal, but Greg has done his another way, and it appears to work well.

What I did, and I believe Daim did it too, was to sandpaper the area each side of the head/cam block join very thoroughly to rough up the aluminium. Then I used a very good spec high temp silicone to seal over the join all the way round the join. The oil here is not under pressure, and it has been leak free since 2011so far.

I'll look into the cam tower sealing. If they were leaking on this motor it was not serious.
Someone has been in there before as there is blue silicone at the mating surface. I have some spare banjo bolts in my parts bin from turbochargers (mostly metric) I will see if I have some that are compatible to replace any short ones. I did replace the copper washers on the connection down by the oil filter housing already. Also I remembered I have a metric nitrile o ring assortment kit and have found all the necessary o rings for replacement.

I believe the banjo threads are Imperial (UNF/UNC) not metric, but that may depend upon the build date of your engine, as Jaguar gradually changed over to metric threads during the life of the engine.

Yep. Did the same, just with black RTV instead ;)

black or grey would be the color of choice I think. Good to know that's held up for so long. Have you tried it on the valley cover?

I welded the bungs on the feed and return ports so everything can go back together.

Attachment 226115

Got everything together.

Tips for the valley cover? Looks like I can just pull the distributor and it'll pop right off. I'm thinking I should probably do the front crank seal too. Does Bernard Embden have a write up for those? His web page is currently down.

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