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Originally Posted by Jagboi64
(Post 2241716)
It's a muffler/pulsation damper. Nearly all AC systems have one, so you'll probably need a different one. That's a Sanden style compressor, there should be a muffler out there that fits it.
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Originally Posted by Greg in France
(Post 2241754)
I run a Sanden and no muffler. In my experience they are completely unnecessary in this application.
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Originally Posted by Jagboi64
(Post 2241778)
Yet on the XJ40's Jaguar uses a Sanden 508 and uses a muffler.
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Originally Posted by Greg in France
(Post 2241754)
I run a Sanden and no muffler. In my experience they are completely unnecessary in this application.
I visited a few places yesterday in Connecticut,,, they looked at me like I was crazy I THINK just because I mentioned 1990 Jaguar XJS. I explained that the fitting worked with 10 million + AC units and the GM A6 compressor originally,,, but still, quizzical looks. I didn't have a lot of patience or motivation due to the stalling situation that popped up - but I want to get this done. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...cef9916561.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...d1825beaf6.jpg |
I would love to figure out threaded fittings and to be able to get rid of the plate for the pressure fit.
Something like this. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...0cd184f63f.png |
AC fittings are very standard, all the hoses on the Jaguar are standard AC fittings that are available at any AC supply place or repair shop. There are also many ends available for the Sanden that have all sorts of different fittings and ports in different orientations, so look for those.
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Originally Posted by Jagboi64
(Post 2242261)
AC fittings are very standard, all the hoses on the Jaguar are standard AC fittings that are available at any AC supply place or repair shop. There are also many ends available for the Sanden that have all sorts of different fittings and ports in different orientations, so look for those.
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Hood info here in this post. I have no idea if min works or not. Not a priority atm.
But when the time comes I guess I'm converting if it doesnt work lol https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...66906852c1.jpg I can't have f12 but I can run straight pipes lol |
I think that's US law, not Canadian. As far as I know, you can do what you want up here.
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Originally Posted by JayJagJay
(Post 2242307)
I will, thanks. Mine is a Jensen unit,
https://nostalgicac.com/compressors/...head-back.html |
Originally Posted by Jagboi64
(Post 2242444)
I think that's US law, not Canadian. As far as I know, you can do what you want up here.
https://www.ontario.ca/page/refriger...tioners-owners https://www.canada.ca/en/environment...act-sheet.html |
Gotta love STORE that is the streets of NYC...
Look what I just got for 80bucks... First thing I'll fab is a new bracket to fit this stouter AC unit. And, I want to go with fitting hoses to this the way it came. I just need to find the right fittings which is proving a little hard for me today. They'll be got. Shoot, maybe I'll cut the muffler OUT and weld the two ends together, lolololololololol https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...d07574530b.jpg |
Loook-E what I found... Purchased it about a year ago and it got lost in the room that has become a parts supply house for 4 old cars.
I have the entire top of the engine off. Have more and better access to this DoHicky than I'll ever have for a while... Built a brace/mount for the appliance. Didn't have the courage to use my new welder. Bolted it together. Anyways. Is it an Oring seal??? One came with the new part on the little copper pipe. I have heard and know that it is a dangerous procedure. Cracking the pipes on the evaporator (is that the right term?) the main hazard but it seems like now or never. Or not for a loooong time. Has anyone thats reading this done this and is there a method anyone has found that might make this LESS potentially catastrophic if things go side ways. I would like to change it now. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...90cb1fba54.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...d40a65ed52.jpg Since have removed the throttle stand,,, still have the oil sending unit post in the way, but other than that it's a clear-ish shot. |
I'm simply copying and pasting what I posted to another thread about expansion valves a few minutes ago...
I finally got to and was able to remove my expansion valve... https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...1df7977ddc.jpg Well that wasn't so bad, at all. Nothing to fear but fear itself. But one serious question...! Were there large quantities of good ol American high grade LSD moving around the UK during the 70s and 80s??? I took a bit of a different tact in removal than I've read in other posts. Actually my "tact" was forced on me by what I was finding real time.... I am very lucky in that I have most of the top half of the engine off. Cam covers and intake. Throttle stand and a few other things out of the way... This is what worked for me... I never felt like I was putting a great amount of stress on the the area of the expansion valve just behind the captive nutt and the tubing to the evaporator. I was able to get a long handled 7/8ths,,, and YES it is a 7/8ths,,, on the captive nutt. At that, understanding what I think I understand about captive nutts, and having sprayed liberally with PB over the last couple of days, I turned everything. When I saw I could turn the captive nutt, which also turned the entire expansion valve, I turned the entire two pieces clockwise (towards the LH fender) and then put a 17mm wrench (spanner) over the square body and top of the valve. I then held the captive in place with the spanner and turned the valve anti(counter) clockwise. The two came loose at that. Easily. I was relieved. I then repeated that process, with PB lube for fear of friction between the captive and evaporator tubing, not wanting the captive to slice thru or cut the tubing from the evaporator... All and all it took less time to do it than to write all of these nervous nelly posts... I need some tranquilizers...made specially for new DIY XJS owners!!! If there's not a product there should be one https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/i...lies/smile.gif Ok, now to put it all back together, tomorrah... Thank you OP and thank you Greg, Grant and all who added to the perfect thread that got me through this... It's a butt clencher! https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...c0c632b3ed.jpg Messy messy... The colors alone make me think of LSD, lol |
For what it worth, If my cars a/c quit or didn't run initially I would flush the system. Then fill the system with R12 substitute and evaluate the system for leaks and failures After repairs were made I would replace the condenser because of its very fine cooling tubes and its ability to act as a filter and lose efficiency. (most important if your compressor fails)
I was fortunate my a/c work but was low on R12. I use a substitute R12 (cost about $6.00 a can) and it worked fine and still does. later I rebuilt the electronic devices on the fans. (easy job) All new electronic parts and the system works like the day it came out of the factory. I use r134 in my other car and buy it at Walmart for $5.00 a can. |
Originally Posted by afterburner1
(Post 2254106)
For what it worth, If my cars a/c quit or didn't run initially I would flush the system. Then fill the system with R12 substitute and evaluate the system for leaks and failures After repairs were made I would replace the condenser because of its very fine cooling tubes and its ability to act as a filter and lose efficiency. (most important if your compressor fails)
I was fortunate my a/c work but was low on R12. I use a substitute R12 (cost about $6.00 a can) and it worked fine and still does. later I rebuilt the electronic devices on the fans. (easy job) All new electronic parts and the system works like the day it came out of the factory. I use r134 in my other car and buy it at Walmart for $5.00 a can. Anyways, I found a guy in Brooklyn who seems willing to do some clever welding using the old steel (copper) tubing, with muffler, shortening it, to use all OE stuff, which I prefer. We'll cut a 2-3 inch section out of the old tube and weld the ends together, God willing, lol... We'll see how it goes... https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...0c1e9529c5.jpg More photos to come if this works... https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...6dcaf9bb08.jpg |
AC Fitting and Hose Sizes?
So,,, that didn't work... (Last post)
So now I've gone and done it. Mastercool (71550) Black Manual A/C Hose Crimper I don't know about other places in the world, but here in the good ol USA, fabrication of parts is a dying craft. Its sad. Of it's broke, throw it away and by another,,, stamped out in China, Mexico, Malaysia... Don't get me started. I may have to dig and dig but does anyone know the sizes of the threads on the connectors at the fuel cooler and condenser end??? I have the right threading I will need for the compressor end of things. Parts on the way but the hose I'd and connectors at the two aforementioned spots would help me a LOT right now... I won't even embarrass myself and TELL about my failed experiment... I took a 350miles cruise this weekend, alone, 80-90 degrees out and it was HOT in that car. On one of my stop overs I decided to get clever. I took all the tools and equipment I would need to fill the system IF I could get the right bits on the journey... Yeah, there was a small explosion of MaxiFridge refrigerant and yellow dye,,, need I say more. I was still parked and tinkering, hood up, when the eruption happened... The straight shot belt works a treat tho!!! Snugged upnfine and went in easy. Did that part at the camp site... |
I'm not sure what other way to go...
if I purchase a new Jag designed hose with muffler (I see one on Amazon for 33bucks), the muffler and steel tubing comes up against the up spout of the rad cross pipe. The new Sanden compressor is much shorter than the A6 pushing everything with the OE fittings forward 3 or 4 (or more) inches.... Its a pain in the tuckass, because no one fab pipes, tube, fitting and hose. Purchasing the crimper,,, I'll have it forever. |
So - I am with AC but
So I found a GREAT place in the greater NY area (and I'm sure there are some but it took some digging) to help solve a major piece of the AC puzzle. At least for hoses and hose fabrication. This place. I hope this helps someone.
The guy and I worked together measuring and cutting, making decisions about which way to go, etc... He was one of this crackerjack types... I told him I was working on a bike too (old 86 Goldwing I want to make into a cafe racer) where he broke OUT his phone and showed me 6bikes (Harley's) from the 50s and 60s that were so MINT they shouldn't be driven. We shared some laughs and --- I really like the part of meeting great people while sorting things out in this car. So, for the most part, the AC is working and is cold. If folks remember I eliminated the blower pully so running a belt straight up and down from the crank to the AC appliance was my first challenge. Strung it up and it worked! I am pleased. Thing is, as the belt stretched a bit it got to be tooooo loose on the low tension side of the belt (with no way to adjust it. This is the belt I was using (info taken from this site). The belt is 1124mm made by BANDO. Today I ordered a 1120mm belt made by Gates with the hope that 4mm less will do me justice... Still, I am not going to rest until it is working 100% as designed... I have a toggle switch (all of the reasons were kinda discussed in past posts) to trigger the AC relay, which then effectively energizers the system BUT for some reason the AC ECU never worked to transmit the 12v s(or so) signal from the knob thru the ECU to the relay. Hence, toggle switch from the position 2 or 3 (can't remember which) ignition 12v feed used to control many relays once on,,, to the AC relay... Anyways... Cool AC (can't believe what a PITA an AC system can be) even tho there are a couple more bugs to work out. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...93cd136eaa.jpg Belt flops around tooooo much on the slack side of the spin. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...3292d30267.jpg |
the only differences between a R12 and R134 system is the type of refrigerant; the PAG oil in the compressor (yes, it matters A LOT to have the right kind in but it is easily drained and replaced); the hoses to some degree but not as much.
The Harrison A6 compressor is a beast dating from the 50's. Later Jag's used a Sanden model. Lighter, more compact. Possibly more efficient. A properly operating AC is also on my list for this fall/winter. I will succeed. Cruise control is also on my list. LOL One possible source of problems may be the little vacuum hoses that control the vents. They connect behind the radio and can easily be pulled off their nipple. Might work thru all the fundamentals just to be sure. |
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