Maybe try unplugging and re-plugging the connector to the module in case there is some corrosion/resistance/bad connection - but it looks like you might have to replace the module. Doing CAN bus checks might reveal something to do with communication.

From the manual:

AFS Control Module

The AFS control module is located on the bulkhead, at the bottom of the RH (right-hand) 'A' pillar.
The AFS control module is a dual functionality unit which also incorporates software to control the
headlamp leveling. The AFS control module is connected to the high speed CAN (controller area
network) bus and receives inputs from other vehicle systems on the status of the following
parameters:

 

@McJag222 Thank you for the references from the manual - do you have the page number for the relevant pages?

I've seen a reference in one of the manuals on how to access the module with this website from @Sean W But my car is RHD so I'm unsure if this is relevant?

Regarding the CAN bus, i'm awaiting confirmation from @guy and @jahummer on my PSU to use on the car when doing further diagnostics with my OBD tool, and that it's the next correct procedure. Thinking the car must see the right voltage before it can attempt to clear the DTC/MIL or to undertake "Service -> Calibrate light."

But my original attempt with what I can only assume is the CAN Bus:

Scroll to the top of the thread for more details.

But the lights do move before failing to test:
( )

But I don't know if that proves the module isn't broken. Hence, the original questions

"

• Could the low battery or a voltage spike during cranking have damaged the headlamp control module?
• Or is it possible the headlights are stuck in a coded fault loop, needing a higher-level diagnostic tool (like JLR SDD or Autel, etc.) to complete a full reset or force a recalibration? "

 

All my years as an electronic tech I haven't come across low voltage doing damage, a voltage spike could do damage but in your case I'd find it hard to believe. Jag software might help - but your code reader is stating U3000-49 which according to the JAG manual is a module internal failure. If it was me I'd pull the module and strip to check for electrolytic capacitors going bad. I would also check for 60 ohms on the Can bus (battery disconnected) to confirm the link to the module plug - not sure which pins you would check though - twisted pair (shielded) for Can bus

That power supply you posted a link is lower than the recommended 50 Amp supply if I remember correctly

 

@Garron, send me a PM please.

 

@guy Okay

 

Perhaps an internal failure... BUT the 12.3 v supply is throwing me off...
Did you check the grounds for each headlamp assembly? A voltage drop across the grounds??
Also, as suggested earlier, dirty contacts at either the module of the connector to the lamp unit?
Or s some have experienced, degraded wire insulation, thus shorting out in the headlamp assemble??

 

Given everything so far, I’m leaning toward the likelihood of an internal failure in the AFS module — unless I’ve been extremely unlucky and this just happened to occur after running with a weak battery. I suspect that the car’s electrics didn’t take kindly to the low-voltage situation, and something about that event has caused the module to fail. I don't think there is any higher level of calibration to fix the lights.

I’ve seen conflicting opinions on this: some people say low voltage alone won’t damage a module, but a voltage spike could. Others suggest that low voltage can cause issues, which is why a dedicated PSU is recommended when running diagnostics, to ensure the modules always see a stable voltage. I’m curious where this fault sits in that debate, and whether anyone here has seen an AFS module fail in this way after a low-voltage or unstable voltage event.

 

@guy - Regarding the voltage, I checked the module readings again today using my OBD tool.

With the ignition on but the engine not running, the module showed 12.3 V, which dipped to 11.8 V when I switched the lights on. Worth noting — when the lights were switched on, I could audibly hear the aspirator fan (near the steering wheel) slow down and become quieter.

While cranking the starter motor for just a fraction of a second, the module voltage dropped from 12.2 V to 10.9 V.

Once the engine was running, the voltage rose at roughly 0.2 V per second until it reached 14.1 V. At idle, the maximum recorded was 14.4 V, and the minimum was 13.9 V, with only momentary fluctuations.

After shutting the engine down, the module voltage sat at 12.6 V and then gradually decreased, fluctuating between 12.6 V and 12.5 V before settling at 12.5 V. Eventually, it dropped between 12.5 V and 12.4 V, hovering on the edge of 0.1 V changes.

Please see attached:



Module Voltage Wave (With Engine Running)


Thank you for taking the time to watch the videos. What are everyone's thoughts?

 

How can I confirm whether the fault is in the main AFS control module or in one of the independent headlight modules? My assumption is that if it were a single headlight module at fault, the two headlights would behave differently — one would move out of sync, lag, or stay fixed while the other followed the AFS commands.

In my case, both headlights still mirror each other perfectly: they’re able to move inward, and they’re both dipped equally. From my understanding, that suggests the main AFS control module could be the culprit, because a failure there would typically cause both headlights to act identically but incorrectly.

If this is right, the only other possibilities I can see are a wiring/CAN issue upstream, or both headlight modules coincidentally failing in the exact same way — which seems unlikely.

 

Good morning all, what are your thoughts?

Will I have to pay jaguar to code the new module to my car or would the calibration routine be enough?

Cheers

 

Did you get this sorted? A new module? From the dealer? Surprised they didn't offer a discounted installation.

 

I hardwired my Ctek but instead of routing the extension cable under the battery cover and out the rear hatch (and manually closing the latch so the car can be double-locked like in the YouTube video), I route the extension cable out of the open top of the battery cover, over the parcel tray, and into the back seat. When I want to connect I simply roll the window down and bring the extension cable through to connect to the charger. I can still double-lock the car and don’t have to worry about forgetting I’m connected.

I’m still trying to figure out if my 2013 has the Adaptive headlights (the seller said it does). I assume it’s part of the matrix of lights I circled?



I too had a “battery event” (thus my recent experience with the Ctek conditioner above) and only today noticed one of my Xenon lamps is out. I also just ordered the coder reader recommended above (thanks chaps) to check for codes, but can I still just replace the Xenon bulb if this is Adaptive lighting?

My other issue is I have crazing on both headlamps, and I am just gonna go out on a limb and assume replacing headlamps with the Adaptive Lighting feature is WAY more expensive that the already outrageously expensive headlamps.

 

NO. The adaptive headlight part is the main beam, and yours appears to be dirty on the inside. The housings get a grey mist coating after years, they should be crystal clear. Use a long Q-tip sort of swab through the hole where the actual lamp goes.

ANYWAY, you can tell adaptive if when you start your car at night the beams do a self-level test. Watch the first two seconds when the lights come on, you can easily see the light move.
Also, while driving slowly, make obvious turns back and forth, the light beams will move in the direction of the turn, then center when traveling straight.

The crazing you describe is almost expected. You CAN get it less obvious by having the headlights polished and coated and that will get rid of most of it. Me, I put 10% headlight tint on mine so the minimal crazing isn't visible now regardless.
If you don't already have adaptive headlights, it would be...... problematic... to install them and "they work!". The wiring and the separate module would not be in your car. Also, at $3000 per each IF you can find them is dissuasive.

 

The wiring and internal mechanism are different.
I have a set of almost new adaptive, 2007~10, sitting in a box. Planning on modifying them to work in my base, 2008, xk, this winter.
WJ

 

Good morning All,

I recently bought and installed a replacement AFS module (£170) myself.

The module is located behind the accelerator pedal on my RHD XKR, secured with two 8mm bolts. I disconnected the battery first, then pulled back the corner trim around the door opening and carpet. I also lifted the door seal plate to release the trim piece, which is held by a metal clip and a locating pin. With the carpet moved aside, I could reach the module with a ¼-drive ratchet and extension.

The wiring has just enough slack to work with. The connector uses a small white locking nub that must be pressed before the black lever can swing over to release it. Re-installation was the reverse, and I used insulating tape to hold the bolts in the socket while starting them, then tugged the socket off once tight.

After reconnecting the battery and switching on the ignition, I still had the MILs, but this time the headlights performed their self-test at every ignition cycle — something they hadn’t done before. Originally frustrated, I checked the DTCs and saw that the code had changed: instead of U3000-49 (internal module fault), it now showed U3000-54, which points to the module requiring programming rather than being defective.

That tells me the hardware fault is resolved, but the new ECU now needs to be configured to my car. I’ve booked it in with Jaguar this Tuesday for programming and diagnostics, which will cost £240.

Interestingly, the service advisor mentioned they’ve had a base model XK come in with a similar issue after a low-battery event, and in that case the rear junction box in the boot was “wiped out,” which then caused problems with other modules. Hopefully, in my case, it’s just a matter of programming the new AFS ECU.

Please see photos below:


The module is located behind the accelerator pedal on my RHD XKR, secured with two 8mm bolts.

The connector uses a small white locking nub that must be pressed before the black lever can swing over to release it.

Insulating tape to hold the bolts in the socket while starting them, then tugged the socket off once tight.

 

For all those interested, this is what the inside of the AFS module looks like. I'll be the first to say it looks and feels like a £30 part at most.

I can't see any obvious signs of failure, but I'm sure if you were that way inclined, you may find a 5p resistor or fuse that had blown and resolder a new one.


The internals of the AFS module

 

Good Morning,

That's an interesting idea - unfortunately, my car is stored on a driveway, so this isn't feasible. I'm planning on routing my ring terminal connector ("CTEK 56-259") to the battery and then running it into the rear light cover on the left side of the boot. Then I can connect my extension cable ("CTEK 56-304") to the boot easily and connect it to the charger ("CTEK MXS 5.0 Battery Charger"), then hide it all away within the plastic cover when not in use.

I still don't know if the CTEK is necessary in my case, as the car goes on a drive at least once every 7 days for an all-around trip of 100+ miles. However, it is the recommended charger, and extra precaution can't be a bad thing.

As far more knowledgeable members have already said, the Adaptive headlights are actually the main/high beam projectors in the centre portion of the headlight. I think what you have circled is actually the indicators. My car doesn't have an LED cluster like that, due to its age. If the headlights physically move on the ignition cycle, as shown in my (although faulty lights) video " "
Now this is only an assumption, but I would have thought all Xenon lights require the AFS module, as to pass inspection in the UK, they must auto-level, and thus need a motor to move the lights up and down. After that expense, I'd be unsure if they just made all Xenon light units AFS? Again, this is just a stipulation.

Good luck!

 

That LED 'cluster' is just a different installed LED bulb in place of the original incandescent one. All manner of replacement bulbs are available. People call the OEM incandescent one the Egg Look, because of the yellow 'yolk' look. I replaced my yolk with an iridescent silvery-look bulb.

 

I have had 2 low battery events. One when I was detailing the interior (battery was the original) the other was after the replacement was 9 years old (a Jag supplied battery). My electronics was non the worse for wear.

 

Nope, for the 2013-2015 those are OEM