How can anybody afford an XKR out of warranty?
#21
Some tough responses here. Don't worry about that.
I've had a similar history. And have done, thankfully, amazingly well with my warranty. Far more than you've got there.
Having said that... the car runs GREAT. Still have a stinky A/C issue which leads me to believe that the dealer didn't' REALLY do the right thing on the duckbill issue. But other than that, it's a joy to drive.
Thanks to reading (and learning from) this forum, I went ahead and checked my VIN. Mine was one of the very first of the "new" 2010's to be sold in the US. Maybe yours too? Lots of gremlins that seemed to have been sorted out within a year.
Here's the funny thing: other than the aforementioned A/C, I love where the car's at right now. Maybe you should hang in there?
AND CHANGE THE OIL FREQUENTLY WITH 0W-20.
AND DO THE FUEL LINE CARBON-CLEAN RECOMMENDED.
AND CHANGE THE ZF TRANSMISSION FLUID.
Keep it!
I've had a similar history. And have done, thankfully, amazingly well with my warranty. Far more than you've got there.
Having said that... the car runs GREAT. Still have a stinky A/C issue which leads me to believe that the dealer didn't' REALLY do the right thing on the duckbill issue. But other than that, it's a joy to drive.
Thanks to reading (and learning from) this forum, I went ahead and checked my VIN. Mine was one of the very first of the "new" 2010's to be sold in the US. Maybe yours too? Lots of gremlins that seemed to have been sorted out within a year.
Here's the funny thing: other than the aforementioned A/C, I love where the car's at right now. Maybe you should hang in there?
AND CHANGE THE OIL FREQUENTLY WITH 0W-20.
AND DO THE FUEL LINE CARBON-CLEAN RECOMMENDED.
AND CHANGE THE ZF TRANSMISSION FLUID.
Keep it!
#22
Looking at your list, my overlap:
Control arms (I get the sense that they're a package deal with the bushings, which are fluid filled. ALL of my bushings have been replaced, and I think that's an age issue).
Supercharger: my entire supercharger was rebuilt, which had to do with the bearing.
Motor mounts: again, seemed to me it was age as much as mileage/wear.
Other items (from memory): both rear taillights (foglights didn't work), one injector, one coil, wheel bearing, and the entire e-differential. I'm sure there are more, but I can't remember that this point. I'm good with a wrench, but honestly there are few of these that I'd have taken on on my own.
Now, I'd tell someone to stick with 2012-2015.
But I do love my car.
Control arms (I get the sense that they're a package deal with the bushings, which are fluid filled. ALL of my bushings have been replaced, and I think that's an age issue).
Supercharger: my entire supercharger was rebuilt, which had to do with the bearing.
Motor mounts: again, seemed to me it was age as much as mileage/wear.
Other items (from memory): both rear taillights (foglights didn't work), one injector, one coil, wheel bearing, and the entire e-differential. I'm sure there are more, but I can't remember that this point. I'm good with a wrench, but honestly there are few of these that I'd have taken on on my own.
Now, I'd tell someone to stick with 2012-2015.
But I do love my car.
#23
Would be extremely interested in advice on how to work DIY on this issue to fix it. Remove headlight and bake it in order to open it. What then? Any tips appreciated!!
br
ter
#25
Mine was one of the more abused cars on the road and it's cost less than $1k to get it on the road. Being willing to shop around for parts and do the work yourself is the answer, or at least be knowledgeable enough to figure out what's wrong before letting someone else do the work. Dealer you are paying @ 2x the cost for parts, labor about 50% more. Add in England's overly nanny state MOT inspection and you are changing stuff that really doesn't need it. Bushings cracked in the control arms just means they need checked more frequently, about every tire change (less often than the MOT) but the MOT requires them to be changed for a crappy seal design. You Euro folks should have went after Jag for poor design and quality issues with those seals.
Road deaths per 100k people UK 2.9
European drivers typically drive much faster than US drivers yet there many times less road deaths. Why. Are they better drivers? probably, but a lot is down to the simple fact that the vehicles on the roads there are maintained to a higher standard. I have never seen a brake balance test be conducted here during inspection, never seen ball joints checked. Never seen headlamp aim checked etc,etc, etc. Most states inspection might include a check to see if it has a cat and the lights work and the tires meet a minimum standards and you pass for another year. The auto safety standards here are third world at best.
The following users liked this post:
NBCat (11-14-2018)
#26
The following 3 users liked this post by Ranchero50:
#27
Due to lack of education. Its easier to get a pilot's license in US than it is to get a driver's license in UK.
Not many know that we only pass 43% of the people who think they are competent enough to drive.
Driving is taken as a very serious privilege to grant.
Russian's have alcohol challenges
tell us about the best way to go about to prevent adaptive headlights from failing- or a fix. I dont let mine run on automatic, so the gears dont engage needlessly when the car starts in a dark garage only to go off 10 seconds later. (am I wrong)
Not many know that we only pass 43% of the people who think they are competent enough to drive.
Driving is taken as a very serious privilege to grant.
Russian's have alcohol challenges
tell us about the best way to go about to prevent adaptive headlights from failing- or a fix. I dont let mine run on automatic, so the gears dont engage needlessly when the car starts in a dark garage only to go off 10 seconds later. (am I wrong)
The following 2 users liked this post by Queen and Country:
NBCat (11-15-2018),
Ranchero50 (11-15-2018)
#28
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Newport Beach, California
Posts: 5,576
Received 2,579 Likes
on
1,784 Posts
When I applied for my driving licence in England back in the 1960s, it took two attempts to pass the test.
I failed the first time for not downshifting into second gear going around a corner and for not immediately looking in the rear view mirror whilst changing lanes.
If one showed up for the driving test in a car with an automatic gearbox and successfully passed, they were given a licence to only drive cars with auto boxes.
MoT is strict and rightly so as there are no unsafe vehicles on the road as there are in so many other countries, including the U.S..
I failed the first time for not downshifting into second gear going around a corner and for not immediately looking in the rear view mirror whilst changing lanes.
If one showed up for the driving test in a car with an automatic gearbox and successfully passed, they were given a licence to only drive cars with auto boxes.
MoT is strict and rightly so as there are no unsafe vehicles on the road as there are in so many other countries, including the U.S..
The following users liked this post:
Queen and Country (11-15-2018)
#29
Buy a can of Lysol disinfectant spray. Start your engine, set your climate control on manual with outside air and the fan speed on high. Open the hood and spray the Lysol into the vents at the base of the windshield. Go back inside the car and vary the airflow through all of the ducts, one at a time - face, feet, defrost, etc., while you repeat the Lysol spray for each duct setting.
Let us know how this worked for you.
Good luck!
The following 3 users liked this post by Stuart S:
#30
The stinky smell is from mold accumulated in the ductwork, which your dealer probably didn't address. You can try this easy and inexpensive DIY fix. If it doesn't work the first time, you need to do it again until the smell is gone.
Buy a can of Lysol disinfectant spray. Start your engine, set your climate control on manual with outside air and the fan speed on high. Open the hood and spray the Lysol into the vents at the base of the windshield. Go back inside the car and vary the airflow through all of the ducts, one at a time - face, feet, defrost, etc., while you repeat the Lysol spray for each duct setting.
Let us know how this worked for you.
Good luck!
Buy a can of Lysol disinfectant spray. Start your engine, set your climate control on manual with outside air and the fan speed on high. Open the hood and spray the Lysol into the vents at the base of the windshield. Go back inside the car and vary the airflow through all of the ducts, one at a time - face, feet, defrost, etc., while you repeat the Lysol spray for each duct setting.
Let us know how this worked for you.
Good luck!
#31
#32
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Naperville, Illinois USA
Posts: 4,572
Received 1,894 Likes
on
1,285 Posts
#33
The climate control will immediately startup when the car is switched on. So this tells me that your vent system is filled with what is causing the smell. So turn on the heat on full blast for a few nights, and dry out the mold, but Id give it a few shots of lysol. Also remove the cabin filter and spray some in there. Been there with mine, and a good thing to do is, shut off the AC compressor a block or two before you arrive to your destination. This dries some of the moisture. And once in a while, close all of your vents and run the heat on high
#34
It is quite a common problem on the Japanese imports to New Zealand because they have sat all closed up on a boat for number of weeks on their way here.
My XKR smelt quite bad when I got it but I used a can of this:
https://www.valvoline.com/en-austral...our-eliminator
It smells of peppermint and seems to have done the job.
I also leave my drivers door window open over the summer while the car is parked in the garage and that seems to help stop the problem reoccurring.
My XKR smelt quite bad when I got it but I used a can of this:
https://www.valvoline.com/en-austral...our-eliminator
It smells of peppermint and seems to have done the job.
I also leave my drivers door window open over the summer while the car is parked in the garage and that seems to help stop the problem reoccurring.
The following users liked this post:
guy (11-17-2018)
#35
Due to lack of education. Its easier to get a pilot's license in US than it is to get a driver's license in UK.
Not many know that we only pass 43% of the people who think they are competent enough to drive.
Driving is taken as a very serious privilege to grant.
Russian's have alcohol challenges
tell us about the best way to go about to prevent adaptive headlights from failing- or a fix. I dont let mine run on automatic, so the gears dont engage needlessly when the car starts in a dark garage only to go off 10 seconds later. (am I wrong)
Not many know that we only pass 43% of the people who think they are competent enough to drive.
Driving is taken as a very serious privilege to grant.
Russian's have alcohol challenges
tell us about the best way to go about to prevent adaptive headlights from failing- or a fix. I dont let mine run on automatic, so the gears dont engage needlessly when the car starts in a dark garage only to go off 10 seconds later. (am I wrong)
#36
#37
#38
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Naperville, Illinois USA
Posts: 4,572
Received 1,894 Likes
on
1,285 Posts
#39
#40
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,656
Received 1,010 Likes
on
717 Posts
Not really my experience... As with non-dealers, any dealer I have visited is very receptive to my negotiating (or lack there of) skills. Moreover, I am very satisfied with my local dealer on a few fronts:
1. If the repair goes sideways, its covered.
2. I am assured the mechanic (and his support) know what they are doing
3. If I need immediate assistance, they will take me even when they are overbooked.
Emphasis on #2!
I've been a happy jaguar customer for going on to 18 years/
1. If the repair goes sideways, its covered.
2. I am assured the mechanic (and his support) know what they are doing
3. If I need immediate assistance, they will take me even when they are overbooked.
Emphasis on #2!
I've been a happy jaguar customer for going on to 18 years/