I had this done at an independent Jag shop for $300 and it took care of my ABS/Traction control messages.

 

cbrush, impressive job on the module. Trust me, after that, doing the brakes is a peace of cake. It really is very easy if you have all the parts.

 

Thanks to everyone for the words of encouragement but I found a local independent Jag specialist that will install the brakes I buy for $105 bucks. So I wimped out and am having him do the front brake install.

 

and rotors???

 

Yeah... make sure you replace those rotors, too. They looked pretty worn.

Actually, $105 for labor isn't bad for the brakes. I tried to change the brakes on my wife's Mazda, and she had a lip around the outer edge of the rotor similar to yours, but not quite as bad. I had a heluva time getting the calipers off. I got one done, but I made her take it to the shop for the second one.

 

Yeah sorry, I should have said pads and rotors. Sounded like a good deal to me

 

The caliper needs to be opened up to clear the lip on the rotor, and probably to fit the new pads and rotor. I've found that the easiest and safest way to do this is to open the bleeder screw and depress the caliper piston.

Put a plastic tube on the bleeder screw, the other end into a container to catch the fluid. Then open up the bleeder screw while pulling the sliding caliper against the rotor to depress the piston and push some fluid out, enough so that the pads clear the lip on the rotor. Close the bleeder.

After the new brakes are in, and pumped a few times, check the fluid level of course.

Dan

 

^perfectly clear instructions...too bad the mechanic is going to do it his way, and probably just push it back into the system

 

Before raising the car or removing the wheels, loosen all the lug nuts so they are just finger snug. Drive a few feet forward and hit the brakes. Then drive a few feet back and hit the brakes.

Then go ahead with the brake job. The rotors won't be stuck on the hub.

Dan

 

^ and the tips just keep on coming! lol

 

Exactly, that's what I was alluding to when I said "safest". The fluid that came out of mine looked pretty bad (I did a flush not long after). I imagine it's pretty risky to push that goo backwards into the abs pump. Not cheap that.

Dan

 

I'm full of them ... er ... full of it ... umm ... oh heavens sake never mind.

 

On my wife's brakes I tried that but it just wouldn't work. Even after I got the caliper completely off I couldn't get the piston to go back into the caliper. I had the bleeder screw wide open, the brake line was completely off of the caliper, and with a C-clamp pushing on the piston it wouldn't move back into the caliper. I finally got it to go back in by HAMMERING on it. It would move a tenth of a millimeter with each hammer blow. It was almost like there was a check-valve in the caliper that prevented it from allowing the piston back in. Anyway, I eventually got it done, but It took hours and I made her take it to the shop to get the second one done.

Are the rotors held on only by the lug nuts, or is something else holding them on, too? I ask because on other brake jobs I've done the rotors came right off once I had the wheel off. When I had my XK8 calipers off the other day the rotors seemed to still be attached solidly.

 

Hmm, there is nothing in the standard calipers thet keeps the piston from depressing (not sure about the Brembos). Having to hammer (!) on it suggests maybe corrosion in the caliper piston/cylinder.




The rotors are sandwiched between the hub and the wheel ... so yes they are held in by the lug nuts ... and rust (except in Texas :-), which is why the procedure I posted to break them free works.

Dan

 

Now I'm really glad I'm having someone else do it :-)

 

There are no stupid questions. Well maybe some!

The pads would be matched when the same brand and type of pad is on the front and rear. Different pad formulations have different friction characteristics. With the same pad brand these characteristics are "balanced" front and rear.

 

You did a great job on this post! Kudos to you!

 

Alright!

My turn to do some surgery!

I've tried to clean the sensors, and although they were dirty, my lights are still on.

I've read the links, and thread here, and think I'm good.

.......

 

I think I hear the cracking of plastic...

 

I did a brake job once that was quite similar. After I was done and ruined the caliper, I found that the piston actually screwed back into the caliper. Maybe it was of this style.

They can also get scored to the cylinder wall leaving a ridge and that will sometimes prevent them from being pushed back too, but that was usually with older vehicles.