cyber3d
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Hey all,
I have a couple of questions. The first, in the video I have some play in the steering box. Is this excessive? I've searched the forum and found someone with more play than I found. But, how tight should it really be?
I'll adjust the nut. But, how do I loosen the nut when it has already been peened into place?
The second, has to do with play in the read wheel. It is the same for both driver and passenger rear wheels. I have a bit of play and a knock. But only when grasping the top and bottom of the wheel and rocking it. It seems solid when rocking it from the sides. Where would the likely culprit be found? Top mount? Shock itself? If it were the bushings would it not have play in the horizontal rocking?
Thanks for your advice.
I have a couple of questions. The first, in the video I have some play in the steering box. Is this excessive? I've searched the forum and found someone with more play than I found. But, how tight should it really be?
I'll adjust the nut. But, how do I loosen the nut when it has already been peened into place?
The second, has to do with play in the read wheel. It is the same for both driver and passenger rear wheels. I have a bit of play and a knock. But only when grasping the top and bottom of the wheel and rocking it. It seems solid when rocking it from the sides. Where would the likely culprit be found? Top mount? Shock itself? If it were the bushings would it not have play in the horizontal rocking?
Thanks for your advice.
Addicted2boost
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I'll try to keep this short because I'm on my lunch break.
Have the car on the lift and grab the front wheels at the 9 and 3 O'clock position. Wiggle the wheel side to side. More like pushing the tire inward. Don't force it hard. You're checking if you have inner and outer tie rod end play. If there is play in the inner and/or outer tie rod play on either front wheel using that method, (depending on the severity of play) you should feel a slight bump or clunk.
As far as the rear wheel bearing play, you have to grab the wheel at the 12 and 6 O'clock position. Even if the car was brand new, from the factory there is supposed to be some wheel bearing play. Were you just checking the car over or do you have a concern for the rear of the vehicle??
Have the car on the lift and grab the front wheels at the 9 and 3 O'clock position. Wiggle the wheel side to side. More like pushing the tire inward. Don't force it hard. You're checking if you have inner and outer tie rod end play. If there is play in the inner and/or outer tie rod play on either front wheel using that method, (depending on the severity of play) you should feel a slight bump or clunk.
As far as the rear wheel bearing play, you have to grab the wheel at the 12 and 6 O'clock position. Even if the car was brand new, from the factory there is supposed to be some wheel bearing play. Were you just checking the car over or do you have a concern for the rear of the vehicle??
cyber3d
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Thanks for the reply. From what I gather, excessive wheel bearing wear would be true only if the wheel exhibits play in BOTH 9-3 o'clock and 12-6 o'clock pairings. I get movement only in the 12-6 position (rear).
88k miles on car BTW.
From the outside, all the bushings look fine.
Sure would like to figure this out. I like learning about my car.
88k miles on car BTW.
From the outside, all the bushings look fine.
Sure would like to figure this out. I like learning about my car.
Sounds like the UJ,s on the drive shafts, if it's minimal movement you be okay just pumping some grease in them, There,s four and should have grease nipples. That's for the rear wheels.
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avern1
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If you are getting the KNOCK when going over bumps or potholes it is probably related to the rear anti roll bar. I have attached an excerpt from the SNG Barratt parts book showing the rear anti roll bar the bushings or the Tie links are probably bad.



