Convertible top latch hydraulic problem
#281
#282
I am. I just can't get the top down so I can access the switches in the latch area. I can't get enough leverage to push the ram/hinge down. I almost feels like the ram still has pressure on it. I know I could fix it if I could get it down.
I'm scheduled to take it to a mechanic named Greg at British Automotive Repair (britishautomotiverepair.com) in Scottsdale, AZ tomorrow.
I'm scheduled to take it to a mechanic named Greg at British Automotive Repair (britishautomotiverepair.com) in Scottsdale, AZ tomorrow.
#283
You need to open the petcock at the pump. If you have done this then you need to apply pressure to the top of the rams. The objective is to release the locking mechanism that keeps the roof closed. The one thing you do not want to do is bend the mechanism. To prevent this from happening apply a downward force to the linkage at the top of the ram. I hope this helps!
#284
I had Greg at British Automotive Repair look at it and he showed me how to push the ram down. he put one hand on top of the ram on the inside and the other hand on top of the first hand on the outside surface of the top and push down on the outer hand. That way he got downward pressure to move it. I did it myself using a folded rag on the inside and 2 hands on the outside with the weight of my upper body. This technique worked for me.
We diagnosed the problem as a bad microswitch in the passenger side top ram. I'll take it back to him to fix since half the interior has to be remove to get to it.
Bob
We diagnosed the problem as a bad microswitch in the passenger side top ram. I'll take it back to him to fix since half the interior has to be remove to get to it.
Bob
#285
Hi Gus,
(literally) in the middle of swapping out for the new Colliflower hoses, just opened the box for the new hoses and have a question:
Apart from the hoses and the tape, I seem to have three bags of connectors.
I assume that:
4XHX7-S-0.015 (2 each) - are the orifices, which should both be mounted at the pump end.
4CTX-S (4 each) - are these the new right-angle connectors (to be screwed into the latch/pump?)
4-4CTX-S (4 each) what are these for? (they are right angle-connectors, but seem larger than those above)?
Thanks in advance. I'm assuming that the new hoses are NOT directional, so am going ahead putting them in....
-Steve
I've looked at your web site, and
(literally) in the middle of swapping out for the new Colliflower hoses, just opened the box for the new hoses and have a question:
Apart from the hoses and the tape, I seem to have three bags of connectors.
I assume that:
4XHX7-S-0.015 (2 each) - are the orifices, which should both be mounted at the pump end.
4CTX-S (4 each) - are these the new right-angle connectors (to be screwed into the latch/pump?)
4-4CTX-S (4 each) what are these for? (they are right angle-connectors, but seem larger than those above)?
Thanks in advance. I'm assuming that the new hoses are NOT directional, so am going ahead putting them in....
-Steve
I've looked at your web site, and
#286
Hi Gus,
(literally) in the middle of swapping out for the new Colliflower hoses, just opened the box for the new hoses and have a question:
Apart from the hoses and the tape, I seem to have three bags of connectors.
I assume that:
4XHX7-S-0.015 (2 each) - are the orifices, which should both be mounted at the pump end.
4CTX-S (4 each) - are these the new right-angle connectors (to be screwed into the latch/pump?)
4-4CTX-S (4 each) what are these for? (they are right angle-connectors, but seem larger than those above)?
Thanks in advance. I'm assuming that the new hoses are NOT directional, so am going ahead putting them in....
-Steve
I've looked at your web site, and
(literally) in the middle of swapping out for the new Colliflower hoses, just opened the box for the new hoses and have a question:
Apart from the hoses and the tape, I seem to have three bags of connectors.
I assume that:
4XHX7-S-0.015 (2 each) - are the orifices, which should both be mounted at the pump end.
4CTX-S (4 each) - are these the new right-angle connectors (to be screwed into the latch/pump?)
4-4CTX-S (4 each) what are these for? (they are right angle-connectors, but seem larger than those above)?
Thanks in advance. I'm assuming that the new hoses are NOT directional, so am going ahead putting them in....
-Steve
I've looked at your web site, and
When installing the hoses you need to know that the hoses are directional and the proper way is the hose at the latch close to the plunger is to be installed on the lower position on the pump. As for the orifice install them at the pump.
#287
Thanks for the fast response. I understand that it matters that the hose closest to the plunger (at the latch) is the one connected to the bottom connector on the pump. (this is also the hose that has failed in my case, and most other cases, looking at the online photos)
But does it matter which way round the hoses are (both ends of each hose look identical to me) - but I'm sure that, having put them in over the last half hour, if it does matter then I put them in wrong!
Also - why do I have eight right angle connectors (I would have expected 4, one for each hose end, to replace the originals), based on the photos at your web site.
Thanks again
Steve
#288
#289
My big concern was that somehow I was going to use the wrong ones and strip a thread on the pump and/or latch. However I've now got the pump end connected, and am taking a break for the night!
-Steve
#290
2002 XK8 convertible top hydraulic leak
I now have the dreaded green shower problem for the second time. I've had it repaired before at the dealership and believe they used the repair kit rather than having to entirely replace all the hydraulic lines. The first time the leak was due to chafing by one of the sharp edged crimped end fittings vibrating/rubbing on the other line causing a pin hole. The service tech wrapped tape around those new end fittings to prevent this from happening again. The first repair took about 4 hrs. due to all the interior trim disassembly required for access. As for the first time they're saying it's going to be about an 8 hr. job; I'll have to leave the car overnight and make a second out of town trip to pick it up. I'm not a happy camper not only due to the considerable expense of this repair but also to the fact that Jaguar apparently hasn't adequately address this long standing well known problem. Does anyone know if the problem has been corrected in recent model years or is this just something that Jaguar has chosen to not reengineer?
#291
#292
I now have the dreaded green shower problem for the second time. I've had it repaired before at the dealership and believe they used the repair kit rather than having to entirely replace all the hydraulic lines. The first time the leak was due to chafing by one of the sharp edged crimped end fittings vibrating/rubbing on the other line causing a pin hole. The service tech wrapped tape around those new end fittings to prevent this from happening again. The first repair took about 4 hrs. due to all the interior trim disassembly required for access. As for the first time they're saying it's going to be about an 8 hr. job; I'll have to leave the car overnight and make a second out of town trip to pick it up. I'm not a happy camper not only due to the considerable expense of this repair but also to the fact that Jaguar apparently hasn't adequately address this long standing well known problem. Does anyone know if the problem has been corrected in recent model years or is this just something that Jaguar has chosen to not reengineer?
Hyd Hose Evaluation
JAGUAR ROOF HYDRAULIC PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE
I hope this helps!
#293
Gus is correct, if you do not address the root cause of the problem you will be back a third time. The alternative solution to the pressure regulation system is the voltage regulation method. Both work, the pressure regulation being more elegant, the voltage regulation a tenth the cost.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...raulics-42013/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...raulics-42013/
#294
The most up-to-date description of the voltage reduction system which Test_point mentioned can be found at ... www.scorekeeper.com/jaguar/jaguar01.htm
#296
#297
Your problem will continue until you reduce the pressure on the system from 1600psi to 1000psi and the pressure relief valve will do that. This is a link for it and a review I did on the hose.
Hyd Hose Evaluation
JAGUAR ROOF HYDRAULIC PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE
I hope this helps!
Hyd Hose Evaluation
JAGUAR ROOF HYDRAULIC PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE
I hope this helps!
#298
I am curretently trying to dismantle my XKR to install the suggested hose replacement and pressure release valve upgrade. The information above helped greatly with getting the roof down manually. I was extremelly nervous about bending the rams. So far things are moving slowly but at least they are moving. I certainly hope this will be the last time I have to deal with a roof issue.
#299
#300
Well I have come to a stopping point. I can't seem to figure out how to get to the section of hyd hoses that run underneath the carpet on the driver's side. Does anyone know what the best way to remove the plastic panel to the left of the pedals? Or the chrome running board? I also have a foot rest to the on the left that protrudes out to block the removal of that panel. Not sure if that was an aftermarket item that someone had previously added but I can't get it off either. Any help would be appreciated, thanks!!!