I've done brake jobs on cars which have worn their rotors leaving a lip on the rim, best method I found was to angle grind the lip flush and hey presto... the calliper came right off.

Just my 2p's worth

Alex

(Plus rubber mallet or copper drift cant hurt )

 

Brake Pistons that screw in are used as part of the Mechanical Parking Brake system on the rear Disc Brakes of some Cars.

 

Having same "ABS" issue. Already cleaned all (4) sensors, still having "Stability Control Fail" about every (3) start cycles, it will stay on for about (3) start cycles. Viewing this thread, I think I'll go ahead and check the solder joints. My question; Do I need to bleed the compete brake system after re-installing the lines on the module?

Thanks for the help.....

 

Did you clean the other end of the front sensor harness connectors after they leave the sensors on the way to the ABS module? This did the trick for me.

 

"Stability Control"? What does that refer to?

 

I'm am sorry....The message center says "Traction Control Fail"...Not stability control fail.....

 

No I didn't. I will. Thanks for the tip....

 

I think I recall reading if you are very careful about clamping the lines, you will not have to bleed the system. If in doubt, all it will cost you is a few bottles of DOT4 fluid, and some time right? (oh, and an assistant to use the pedal, unless you find a bleeder pump thingymajig)

 

So are you saying that cleaning the sensors ultimately did not clear the ABS/Trac Control Fault/Warning?

 

So did the resoldering permanently fix the problem? I've cleaned my sensors but haven't driven the car yet...afraid to cause I've got to replace the tensioners before they fail...no noise but I have 67k miles on my "new" car.

 

Yes, repairing the solder joints in the ABS control unit has fixed my problem, I haven't had the warning since I did this procedure.

While cleaning the wheel sensors was an easy exercise, unfortunately it didn't fix the problem for me. Only fixing the solder joints worked for me.

 

Hey Reverend, can you post some pics on the job to change out the front and rear pads? I'm about to do on my '07 XKR. I've done ABS pads on Jeeps and Prowler, but not Jag. Just need to be sure of the proper location of stuff...bleed valve, caliper bolts (and maybe size of them, etc).
I was told by the dealer that I needed new pads front and rear. I agree it looks about time (60k on vehicle, prob done once before but no dealer records. Have only had car since 49K). Rotors look alright. Only a mild outer edge lip. Not sure what tech spec thickness is considered minimum.
Any step-by step or photos would be GREAT!!!!!!!

 

I had the ABS/TRAC warning issue on my 2000 XK8. Cleaning the sensors didn't help, a new battery didn't, either. I changed the pads, still had the problem, though much less frequent.

The dealer said I had a code (can't recall the number, sorry) indicating the connection between the wheel sensor and the ABS module was bad. I replaced the short wire that leads from the wheel sensor up through the wheelwell to the top of the shock tower where it connects into the wireing harness. (Couldn't be easier, $45 for the part and less than an hour of my time).

99% of the problem solved, it threw the fault once since then.

GREAT job on the resoldering! That's my next move if it comes back.

 

Did you have to bleed the brakes after this install ? I see you disconnected the brake lines.

 

Well My ABS solder project did not turn out like the above.. followed the steps .. all of the4 above.. put unit back in car .. terminals back on battery .. keyed it up and got .. incorrect part fitted. low brake fluid.. and a red brake light on the dash came on .. which is new since I did this. speedometer does not work now either.. before i did this just the abs light would come on the dash .. along with restricted performance. now .. codes: p1637,u1260,p1799..

just ordered new abs module ebay ..

 

So I did the ABS solder fix.. step by step .. solder joints looked bad.. so took out old and replaced with new.. looked good .. hopes where high.. re installed abs module.. put harness back in along with brake lines.. reconnected battery .. then got.. incorrect part installed ... low brake fluid.. red brake light on instrument cluster.. never was there before.. started it up .. restricted performance.. speedometer does not work now either.. orderd new abs module on ebay .. will see what happens when it gets here ..


just wanted to note.. the bolts that hold the abs module strip very easily .. also .. there are retainers on studs that hold the cover of the module to the main part of the module that have to be taken off also before the cover comes off .. not just the bolts mind you.

if you take the brake lines off for any period of time the brake lines have to be bled.

this was not a simple fix for me.. but had to be done.. I hope the new module corrects these issues.. still do not know why the speedometer does not work now.

 

help

 

Have you tried doing a google search on the codes you got?

Based on the fact that you have a U code it sounds like the ABS module may not be communicating properly with the other modules in the vehicle. A U code means a communication problem between devices. That might explain why you have no speedometer reading - the instrument cluster isn't getting the vehicle speed from somewhere.

If you didn't have these problems before you started working on the car, obviously something was either damaged, or not put together right. Id suggest checking over everything you worked on and making sure all of the electrical connectors are OK. Anything you unplugged for the work, unplug it again, and check all of the little pins in the connectors to see if one is bent out of place.

 

Unplug the ABS module and see if the unrelated functions (like the speedometer) start functioning again.

It sound like maybe the ABS module got further damaged, perhaps on its communication link, and is taking down some of the module to module communications in the car.

 

Well after a few hundred miles my ABS/Trac Control Light came on again. But then went out after shutdown and re-driving. I'm going to do the continuity check next. Does anyone know the part number for the electrical lead wire coming off the wheel sensor?