Fuel Pump Access
 

An option for some wanting to have easy access to pump and all its belongings for testing and experimenting . I have a 2004 XKR convert that has been giving me some fuel pressure problems. I did not want to shell out $ 750 for the module and have to remove the tank to replace it. After reading many post about repeated new part failure and short life I choose a different approach. I plan on trying some aftermarket pumps / fuel pressure regulator if needed. First I purchased a 8 1/4" hole saw and arbor part# 106200 and 106202 from automationdirect.com for about $ 55.00. I rented a right angle heavy duty 1/2" drill from Home Depot for $ 20.00 for 4 hrs. I removed the carpet that covers the back shelf area on top of the tank to access sheet metal and made measurement's and markings for 1/4" pilot hole. Through the trunk I pulled down back wall carpet and removed top 3 bolts holding steel panel and pulled it down slightly and slid in a piece of aluminum sheet as a safety when drilling. The original arbor bit was removed and replaced with a 1/4" drill blank extending out 3/8" past hole saw teeth.Next I drilled a pilot and then cut the 8 1/4" hole in the sheet metal , all of about 55 seconds. I cleaned and deburred the sharp edge and vacuumed the area clean. You can leave the hole open ,the carpet is stiff enough not to sag or close up with original plug and use aluminum duct tape or make a complete new cover. Attached are some pics. Steve

I plan on going through the shelf on my XJ6 to replace the pump, and this looks like a reasonable idea for the XK8. I would, however, rivet a plate over the hole, and seal it with RTV to maintain the stiffness of the shelf structure.

Great idea! Jaguar should have done this in the first place. Any chance of posting the measurements as to the location of where to drill the pilot hole?
Thanks

being a boat-kinda-guy, i'd install a plastic access hatch ( and they make alu or SS ones for the wealthy ) Very cool idea, on my list.

does the xkr not have 2 pumps ?

Early XKRs with the 4.0 have 2 pumps.

Later XKRs with the 4.2 have 1 pump.

This is so smart. You save what amounts to up to 10% of the car's value by drilling this access point. I just had this repair done last week, I tried to remove the fuel line but failed.

Superb thinking! I swear I learn at least one valuable new thing every time I visit this forum. I read the forum for almost a year before I bought my XK8. It gave me the confidence to finally pull the trigger, knowing I'd be able to handle a lot of the maintenance and repairs myself. Plus it was so comforting to know there would be a community of experienced members I could always turn to for advice if I got stuck. I have always believed that Jag owners have some of the sharpest minds around. This absolutely confirms it.

Timing is everything... I just paid $1400 to have my pumps replaced on a 2002 XKR that I had owned only one day when the pups died... Terrific idea!!!! What pumps did you use in place of the OEM.
One of the responses thanked you for posting your idea, I certainly second him...

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would this procedure work on my xk8 2001 conv. looks like yours
ya have to go through behind the rear seats and take off flooring ? sorry getting confused beentrying to figure away to do without touching tank. racking brains out...............

Fuel Pump A
 

The believe the early xk"s up to 2002 had a two pump setup , 2003 and up a single unit. I do not know the inside workings of the two pump setup so you would have to take it out and examine and understand it's operation. With other information that I learned from the forum make sure that the check valve and pressure reg are good. Examine the connectors and wires to the pump from the tank cap. There is also a fuel pressure sensor and driver module that signal the pump to operate at various speeds. It all depends on your symptoms , have a clear understanding of how it is supposed to operate. The cutout for access would work on all the years. Now for a replacement pump it has to be one for a return less system, not sure of the internal design differences but a return type will burn out in short order ! I chose a late model ford unit, 255lph and my driving style is not always mashing the pedal. There is no exact fit pump that I could find so you will have to make some alterations, extra oversized round foam to secure pump in holder and also to wire and hose. Visit other car forums , particular race applications. They routinely modify fuel pump modules , lots of insight. Last I looked there was some Jag dealer on e-bay selling new OEM units for $ 623 free shipping. Steve

To be clear, only the pre-2003 XKRs had a 2 pump setup, not the XK8s. Also the fuel pump system is entirely different pre-2003. It is a conventional return system using a different (much less costly) pump and a mechanical fuel pressure regulator with no electronic pressure sensor.

This procedure will work if you do not want to pull the tank, which is the conventional repair method. The access to the pump using the method described in this thread is from under the convertible top stowage shelf AT THE TOP OF THE TANK. You do not need access under the tank using this method.

fuel sender
 

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thanks again, i dont like tearing things apart but i think ill look into this from the top.... jag is looking at close to a grand to do it.....thanks again and to everybody in the forum..........................tony

Howdy Folks:
Just to give an update on my fuel pumps replacement.
I used a Harbor Freight $20 air nibbler, heat gun, chisel, 1/4" and 1/8" Masonite.
I scribed a ~9"dia circle and jigsawed a 1/4" thk Masonite template which I fastened to the shelf with 2 short sheet metal screws. Then I took the heatgun and chisel to scrape the softened soundproofing off around the perimeter which reduced the thickness to about 18ga total which my nibbler could accommodate. I stepdrilled a 5/8" starter hole in a location that would not damage the underside (a big concern). I then pushed one of my wife's foil oven liners under the shelf to catch the nibbled slugs. (that worked quite well, however I did make a big mess of nibbled slugs on the top side. I later learned that I should have mask the topside in similar fashion as one would to paint that area.Vacuuming would have then been much easier)
I had to adjust the nibbler head index about 4-5 times to complete the circle. Also, I had to flatten the shelf reinforcement rib at four places which meant having to nibble holes at times to remove the nibbler as it is "locked in the cut" so to speak.
The actual fuel pump work was quite difficult to access due to low headliner clearance (alot of using a mirror, blind feeling and one handed multitasking) and I suggest doing a dry run to see if you can actually get your head and arms beyond the rear seat. If you are physically unable to, I suggest the conventional method from the trunk.
This was just my prerogative and I am not saying that this is a better method than sawing (It definitely takes longer but is burr free). I also considered using my cutoff tool but I feared the close proximity of what could be easily be damaged under the shelf. Finally, I taped a 1/8" Masonite cover over the hole.
Here are a few pics.

I just finished replacing the fuel pump on my 2001 XK8 convertible. Symptom was sudden. Car was driving fine, then started but wouldn't go above a rough idle, then degraded to the point that it wouldn't run at all. It seemed that the car ran on residual pressure in the fuel line and the pump had failed. AAA got me home.
Being 13 years old, I figured that the fuel pump had served me well, so I did a little research and got on with changing the pump. Autozone has a tool kit for fuel and A/C lines for $10.
I'm not a fan of splicing wires in the tank with a cheap pump that didn't match the original connector, and Jaguar wanted a few hundred dollars for a direct replacement. NAPA had a pump with a different connector for under a hundred dollars and it had a short adapting harness. It just plugged in.
Access through the trunk isn't bad for most of the job, but there are two fuel lines under the tank that can barely be seen above the rear differential. The fuel lines are simple with proper access, and I didn't want to induce any problems such as a leak due to poor access. I had no interest in spending an unknown amount of time and frustration trying to reach the fuel lines with poor access.
I chose to improve access by lifting the body off the suspension. Fear not, it's not that bad. It's just bolts and all are accessible. I was pleasantly surprised.
Once the body and suspension are apart, access to those lines was great. It took me a minute to release them and 30 seconds to connect them. And I was confident that they were removed without damage and installed correctly.
At this point it's a good time to change the rear brake pads, and if it's time for rear shocks, do that too. Make sure that you have enough jack stands and two floor jacks.
Even taking a few detours along the way, it took me 5 hours from having the pump in my hand to having the car back on the ground.
I got my pump changed, didn't cut any holes in the car, learned a lot about the car, and the job cost a little over a hundred dollars. I would estimate that lifting the body off the chassis adds about 4 hours total to the job of fuel pump replacement.
One note: After all this, my convertible top wouldn't open. I heard the pump running and the top seemed to want to move, but couldn't.
I discovered that when I installed the right side trunk felt, I must have bumped the T valve at the pump for the convertible top. I made sure it was turned CCW all the way (closed?) (It did turn just a little bit) and all is well.

I actually bought a new Dremel rotary saw ($119+tax) and was just about to CUT THE HOLE and the shop down the street called and said they would do it for $119, so I stopped, put everything back together and took it down there and had them do it. They have put rear 1/4 regulator in for me for $200+tax.


I came very close to cutting that hole and really wanted to do it for the experience, challenge and satisfaction.

Please be aware, the panel you are cutting through is a FIREWALL. It keeps gas tank fires and explosions from easily entering the passenger area. Do install a metal hole cover after this repair for safety reasons.

Thanks Will:
I intended to make a stainless cover but never got back to it. You are right on and I do have it on my spring to do list, however now it will probably be of carbon steel that I can fab in my garage.
Again, many thanks for reminding me

+1000! A secure metal cover!

Ford Pintos and early Mustangs were known to push fuel from the tank into the passenger compartment in a rear end collision, frying the occupants because there was not a sufficient barrier (firewall) in place to keep it from happening.

Most classic Mustang owners install a safety kit that keeps this from happening.

Most Pinto owners are "grilled and gone" by now. :-)

There were a lot of lawsuits over these issues in the 70's.
Vector