XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 1996 - 2006

Major issue - any input appreciated

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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 01:51 AM
  #21  
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I must admit I don't like using locktite on brakes, in my experience it causes nothing but trouble, might of even caused mcbeefsteaks problem, never use to use it in the old days.

I was told it was mainly for production line purposes as they often left things loose.... Not sure I beleive that but you never know, the only time I do use it is if I am going into aluminium. Just make sure you do it up!
 
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 10:30 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Stratohammer
DANG! There goes half of my arsenal. Brute force and ignorance are two of my favorite tools.

Seriously, though, I hope this turns out OK for you.

Mike
Thanks Mike, I think I am making progress. Found a couple of local industrial supplies that might carry time-sert.

BTW, I grew up in Tulsa, and have come to appreciate Oklahoma over the years now that I have lived in Dallas for so long. It's a nice state.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 11:07 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by XKRacer
I must admit I don't like using locktite on brakes, in my experience it causes nothing but trouble, might of even caused mcbeefsteaks problem, never use to use it in the old days.

I was told it was mainly for production line purposes as they often left things loose.... Not sure I beleive that but you never know, the only time I do use it is if I am going into aluminium. Just make sure you do it up!
I agree with this, I never use loctite on brake bolts, from my old racer days, it's too unpredictable. I always drilled the heads and safety wired them together. This is not done on assembly lines except at Ferarri and similar but is the way to secure these bolts.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 12:10 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by mcbeefsteak
Thanks Mike, I think I am making progress. Found a couple of local industrial supplies that might carry time-sert.

BTW, I grew up in Tulsa, and have come to appreciate Oklahoma over the years now that I have lived in Dallas for so long. It's a nice state.
Interesting, I grew up in Ponca City, always remember OK fondly.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 01:12 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by oldmots
Interesting, I grew up in Ponca City, always remember OK fondly.
Small world. Oklahoma is just a nice state with nice people. Kind of laid back, small town feel to it, low stress. Not a complicated place at all, just easy to be happy. I lived in Okmulgee until I was five, small town of about 12,000 and capital of the Creek Nation.

Update on the Jag:

Had a heck of a time finding the Time-Sert kit. Only two local vendors listed on their website, no one local had it in stock. Finally ordered it from Mechanics Tools and Bits through Amazon.

Called them up to ensure overnight shipping - talked to Neil. Nice guy, in PA, said he would track my order and ensure it was delivered by 10:30AM tomorrow in any case, even if he had to call me and redo the order manually.

Mechanics Tools & Bits - Wholesale Tools - Home of the Thread Doctor

Autobahn Jag in Ft Worth (Clarence) is telling me that the bolts will be here tomorrow morning as well.

Autobahn Jaguar Fort Worth | Dallas | DFW | Jaguar Dealership offering New & Pre-Owned Jaguar Sales and Service

So, by tomorrow night, perhaps this will be behind me. Assuming the brakes still work after I reassemble.

Thanks again to all. Using the Jag as a daily driver wasn't a bad idea, but my mechanic might need some sensitivity training.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 02:14 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by oldmots
Interesting, I grew up in Ponca City, always remember OK fondly.

Oldmots - Ponca City

McBeefsteak - Tulsa

Me - Bartlesville, just down the road from both of you. Haven't lived there since 1972 however, perhaps more than a lifetime ago. A great place to be a nine year old.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 04:23 PM
  #27  
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mcbeefsteak, that sux. I had the same problem with my front Brembos, although I was lucky and didn't strip the threads. They fought me all the way out 'til the last thread. Question: did you have the same problem with the bolts on the rear?
 
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 04:48 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by The Coupe
Oldmots - Ponca City

McBeefsteak - Tulsa

Me - Bartlesville, just down the road from both of you. Haven't lived there since 1972 however, perhaps more than a lifetime ago. A great place to be a nine year old.
Bartlesville, home of Phillips Petroleum. Good oil revenue and about the size of Tulsa, always sounded like a decent town to live in. I think you guys had that Frank Lloyd tower downtown, which is cool.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 05:06 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by govatos
mcbeefsteak, that sux. I had the same problem with my front Brembos, although I was lucky and didn't strip the threads. They fought me all the way out 'til the last thread. Question: did you have the same problem with the bolts on the rear?
Haven't had a chance to touch the rears yet, but you can be sure I will be taking my time with those.

I expect the same issues, though. I think the bolt part number is the same, which means it is coated with Loctite as well.

How did you finally get your front bolts off?
 
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 08:03 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by The Coupe
Oldmots - Ponca City

McBeefsteak - Tulsa

Me - Bartlesville, just down the road from both of you. Haven't lived there since 1972 however, perhaps more than a lifetime ago. A great place to be a nine year old.
Small world. I was in Bartlesville 10 years ago on my way to Ponca City from Tulsa for a nostalgia visit. Went on a tour of the Norman Price Tower. I'm an architect and make pilgrimages to Frank Lloyd Wright every now and then.
As for Jag content, another way to generate the torque to pull the bolts, if you don't have a breaker bar, take a 1/2" drive wrench and put a piece of pipe over the handle. I do this when I need some real torque. Slow staedy torque is often helpful with fine thread bolts to keep them from jumping the threads and stripping like when they are jerked by an air wrench.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 05:21 PM
  #31  
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mcbeefsteak, I literally had to stand on a breaker bar...I weigh 205 lbs...and twist it off a quarter of a turn at a time. It fought me all the way out. Unfortunately, or maybe luckely,I didn't have an impact wrench. I'm concerned about the rear because there is not much room to jockey around a breaker bar.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 09:09 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by govatos
mcbeefsteak, I literally had to stand on a breaker bar...I weigh 205 lbs...and twist it off a quarter of a turn at a time. It fought me all the way out. Unfortunately, or maybe luckely,I didn't have an impact wrench. I'm concerned about the rear because there is not much room to jockey around a breaker bar.
Yeah, I've been thinking about that. I weigh about 18 stone, have a 15'' breaker, and finally gave up trying to budge it using arm strength. Hence the beginning of what I now call "The eminently regrettable air gun incident", in which I finally decided to show that bolt who was boss. (It was the bolt.)

My brother had a good idea - attach the breaker bar to the bolt with the handle pointed at the floor, and very gently lower the car, using the car's weight to push the end of the breaker against the floor and turn it. Jack it up, start over.

But, of course, he once pretended to be an Army colonel so he could stay in the YMCA on a military base.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2011 | 08:47 PM
  #33  
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Well boys, it looks like I might be in it to win it.

Ordered the time-sert (similiar to a helicoil). Came with a drill bit, countersink, tap, and a installation tool.

Instructions said - drill out the old threads using the drill bit. Which I did. Got myself a nice drill, and went to town. Got er done, but the drill bit was smoking a good bit at the end, even though I was using oil.

Took me a good while to drill out that top bolt hole. Unsure if I can put those threads back in by hand, like the instructions say to do.

Might be doing the vertical link after all, I will keep you updated.
 
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