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Parts for An 01 XK8
As I've said in the prior thread about my new coupe, heeding the advice given here I will have the following work performed: Please excuse the overabundance of questions but I've seen different advice on the items I'm asking about.
Chain tensioner replacement: 49,000 miles. Should I do upper and lower and chains or just upper? And if so does it make the intake removal for the hoses under said intake any easier? Water Pump T-Stat I've seen some examples that don't fit even though spec'd for the year ALL, and I mean ALL cooling lines. Can you recommend a good source Drain and refill tranny-is there a filter to replace on these? Oil obviously He'll give me a price on Michelins and Conti's- Any other suggestions? More interested in boulevard cruising v. Watkins Glen weekends. Spoke to the Guru for bushings for the struts....but no rush sir! Good source for soft bits on suspension? What I would really appreciate is a tried and true vendor(s) for the various items. The Interchage is very helpful as well!! |
There is a filter in the auto pan. However, it is a separate filter rather than one built into the pan cover as fitted to the X150 models.
If the water pump is the original with the plastic impeller (I can't recall when the change was made) then I would do upper and lower tensioners at the same time. I did not change my chains but, whilst you're in there, you might as well. I've never changed my thermostat or coolant lines and everything is still OK after 90k miles. Richard |
Originally Posted by thegreatgarbanzo
(Post 2701219)
As I've said in the prior thread about my new coupe, heeding the advice given here I will have the following work performed: Please excuse the overabundance of questions but I've seen different advice on the items I'm asking about.
Chain tensioner replacement: 49,000 miles. Should I do upper and lower and chains or just upper? And if so does it make the intake removal for the hoses under said intake any easier? Water Pump T-Stat I've seen some examples that don't fit even though spec'd for the year ALL, and I mean ALL cooling lines. Can you recommend a good source Drain and refill tranny-is there a filter to replace on these? Oil obviously He'll give me a price on Michelins and Conti's- Any other suggestions? More interested in boulevard cruising v. Watkins Glen weekends. Spoke to the Guru for bushings for the struts....but no rush sir! Good source for soft bits on suspension? What I would really appreciate is a tried and true vendor(s) for the various items. The Interchage is very helpful as well!! Although Kelly did call me - thanks, Kelly! |
Originally Posted by RichardS
(Post 2701223)
There is a filter in the auto pan. However, it is a separate filter rather than one built into the pan cover as fitted to the X150 models.
If the water pump is the original with the plastic impeller (I can't recall when the change was made) then I would do upper and lower tensioners at the same time. I did not change my chains but, whilst you're in there, you might as well. I've never changed my thermostat or coolant lines and everything is still OK after 90k miles. Richard Sound advice on the chains...maybe overkill but get it done once. Tstat appears closed, need to look at that but I'd sleep better at night redoing the hoses. Intent is to drive the wheels off it Spring-Fall. I do about 35k on the road visiting assets we manage, and I'd take this along a few times a month ...or less..but I want to get to a good base level with it. EDIT: Just spoke w/mechanic. He's ordered the entire kit for the chains and two sets of tensioners. |
Ten years ago we were telling people it was ok to just do the secondary tensioners as those were the potential plastic grenades that would likely destroy the engine. The primaries are still going to be fine because they don't see the same kind of stresses as the secondaries, but what the mechanic is more likely to find today, another ten years on, is that the chain guides, which are also plastic, are going to be cracked, possibly even with chunks of them sitting down in the oil pan. Just order it all and do it all at the same time is good advice at 23 years old.
You've also got a grenade inside the transmission. Since you are intent on draining and refilling the tranny anyway, have your mechanic remove the valve body and inspect the main pressure regulator valve while they have the pan off to change the filter. If the bore is worn, and it will be unless the car has crazy low miles, I suggest to skip the two aftermarket alternatives and order a new ZF front lower valve body section and 2nd generation valve from California Transmission Supply. I just did one and the parts were $240. Don't know what they'd charge for install labor, but figure an extra hour or two at most. Cheap insurance. As to general parts, I've ordered a lot from Moss, a little from Walsh and SNG Barratt over the years. Never any complaints with service. I'm often surprised what I can get on Amazon, tho I feel a little guilty because I have to always use somebody else's website to confirm part numbers before ordering. |
Originally Posted by pdupler
(Post 2701474)
Ten years ago we were telling people it was ok to just do the secondary tensioners as those were the potential plastic grenades that would likely destroy the engine. The primaries are still going to be fine because they don't see the same kind of stresses as the secondaries, but what the mechanic is more likely to find today, another ten years on, is that the chain guides, which are also plastic, are going to be cracked, possibly even with chunks of them sitting down in the oil pan. Just order it all and do it all at the same time is good advice at 23 years old.
You've also got a grenade inside the transmission. Since you are intent on draining and refilling the tranny anyway, have your mechanic remove the valve body and inspect the main pressure regulator valve while they have the pan off to change the filter. If the bore is worn, and it will be unless the car has crazy low miles, I suggest to skip the two aftermarket alternatives and order a new ZF front lower valve body section and 2nd generation valve from California Transmission Supply. I just did one and the parts were $240. Don't know what they'd charge for install labor, but figure an extra hour or two at most. Cheap insurance. As to general parts, I've ordered a lot from Moss, a little from Walsh and SNG Barratt over the years. Never any complaints with service. I'm often surprised what I can get on Amazon, tho I feel a little guilty because I have to always use somebody else's website to confirm part numbers before ordering. BTW we met in person yesterday at the garage. What can you say about a place that has SCCA mags on the tables and is showing a two hour loop of track day at the Nurburgring?????? All young guys, in their 30's who drive cool cars. Interestingly he is using all the vendors mentioned. I'll suggest the tranny exam/fix if needed at 49k. Thank you! |
Originally Posted by thegreatgarbanzo
(Post 2701287)
Just spoke w/mechanic. He's ordered the entire kit for the chains and two sets of tensioners.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...0/#post1872744 If you're replacing chains, then use OE. Anecdotally, some of the aftermarket are of dubious quality, and I've not read of any OE that have broken other than when a secondary tensioner gets chewed up. |
a good place to start for parts is our forum sponsors - SNG Barratts (you can request a parts catalogue or view their detailed online parts breakdown to obtain part numbers then do your comparison shopping); jagbits; Coventry Foundation (ebay store with new old stock). SNG and jagbits offer a discount for forum members. If you want to upgrade the suspension bushings to poly, several of us went with PowerFlex poly - I redid front and rear with powerflex
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