Friends i am ready to replace my 98s rear bearings. Just studied the Jag document again to get comfortable with the job.

Just noted that they want Loctite 270 placed on hub/axle nut. A quick check shows that 270 is disabled with 300 degrees Celsius.

Did you have to heat this nut to get her off?

If yes, what did you use? I only have a propane touch available.

It looks like there's room to get good leverage, but I don't want to assume anything waste time and it break something.

I always remember Bob Motorcarman saying heat is your Friend! What do you think about this nut?

Thanks John

 

Per specs, breakaway torque on Loctite 270 is only 24 ft. lbs (33 nm). That's enough to keep it from ever vibrating loose (after set up, about 30 min). That it will resist up to 299 degrees Celsius (570* F) is a good thing, (although your new bearings and grease will definitely help prevent that from ever occurring). The only way it would ever approach that temperature is if the bearing went dry, and the nut probably still wouldn't break itself loose.

Don't soak the entire length of the bolt with the liquid, just the middle 3 or 4 threads, and then torque to spec. I would think that you'd run more risk of catastrophic seizure from accumulated corrosion over years of probably not ever having to remove the bearing nut again. And every bearing nut I've encountered over the last 45 years has yielded quickly to some WD40 and a reasonable amount of pressure from a 1/2" drive socket wrench (and a 40" breaker bar extender... ).

 

Thanks, after losing the fight to front lower wishbone bolts I was probably over cautious. 24 ft lbs is easily overcome.

I appreciate it mate.

John

 

I'm going to guess that breaking the rear bearing nuts loose this time will be a challenge just like your wishbone bolts, even if there is no Loctite involved. Anoint them liberally with WD40 at least twice the night before you try to remove them (about 30 minutes apart). And get a good breaker bar extender...

 

when I did mine, I think someone used too much loctite as the nut unscrewed itself from the alloy nut leaving it stuck to the shaft

 

PHanc60844, that was tough! I just got started. Guys, I could have unscrewed this nut with my little finger! I can only hope geting the hub off the axle is as easy. Fingers crossed that all else goes this well.

BTW, anyone know why all the instructions say to remove the caliper and rotor after you free the hub? It's not like it is hard to do in place.

John

 

Yes because you install a screwdriver into the cooling vents of the rotor to keep it from turning as you attempt to remove and install the nut to the proper torque.