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I just took apart my DCCV. Before I removed the screws I peeked in the hoses. Similar to yours. I can tell you after pulling mine apart those ports were definitely stuck closed!
If you found any coolant intrusion when you removed the metal covers that's another failure point. (Both of my covers had coolant in them)
I literally had to pop off each soleniod from the housing, remove the c clip from the bottom and clean it up before the spring loaded feature resumed working.
When working correctly the soleniod will go up/down approximately 1/4". If you press gently down on each solenoid (after popping off the electrical coils) and nothing happens, there you have it.
DCCV's being stuck in the closed position is rather common. For me I'm going to "cycle" the solenoids once weekly moving forward.
I had black soot also in the housing.
Looked like the rubber on the bottom of the solenoids started disintegrating...
I still firmly believe you will be in the clear (and warm) once you install a replacement valve...
So I got a valve from the junk yard for 24 bucks, got it put in and now I'm getting the 3 heater core lines hot to the touch. Still no heat. I ran out of time to mess with it to much, but I started to burp the coolant system. I took it around the block for about a 10 min drive still nothing. Maybe it's letting chance the display but not the module that contorls the hot or cold?
Your on borrowed time with a used part like this, it could be crapped out too even though the heater lines are now hot (and those temps at the pipes should be north of 190 degrees almost identical to engine temp) if you can still touch them and hold them on "hi" that's a problem..
So on your next run do the following: open up expansion tank, fill between low and max, put cap back on and tighten, start car, put climate control to "hi", leave AC on, wait until car warms up then rev it at 2,000 to 2,500 rpm for 2 - 3 mins while your hand is over the floor vent on drivers side.
Wait until you start feeling heat. Then drive her around a bit.
I'll keep my fingers crossed on your used DCCV. Again, with all the work entailed in replacing this part you should've went with new...
Kinda wondering, are you allergic to any medications? (Sedatives in particular) This is fairly important. You only live a few hours north of me. I've already purchased a surplus government surveillance van and a tranquilizer dart gun. I'll be parked across the street to cut down on my response time. If surveillance indicates you're about to pull a similar move, all I need is one clean shot. Trust me, it's for your own good. I'd hate to see any kind of allergic reaction, though, so I have to ask.
You've got to look at it this way. Your symptoms are basically unchanged, after replacing the primary culprit with a used part of unknown and suspect serviceability. The failure rate on these valves is so high, especially one sitting in a junkyard for who knows how long. Spring for the (new) Motorcraft part as previously suggested.
Before installing the new one, make sure the two valves are fully open. Leave the electrical connector off at first, to make sure there's not a controller problem inadvertently commanding the valves closed. Once you confirm heat with the new valve, then connect the plug and see if you're still getting heat.
Doing some more testing today. I pulled the plug off and with the pos lead in the middle it showing 12v. When I turn on the blower and test for ground at the outer two points I get nothing. For the system to work it should be swtiching the other two to ground and that opens it up. Does this mean my ccm is bad for not sending the signals
For the system to work it should be swtiching the other two to ground and that opens it up. Does this mean my ccm is bad for not sending the signals
Nope, it's the other way around. The solenoids are energized to turn off the coolant flow to the heater core. When the solenoids are relaxed (same as disconnecting the plug as previously suggested), you get full flow to the heater core.
If you need any more help, just come knock on the van. I'll tell you, this thing is great. It's amazing what you can find on eBay.
Nope, it's the other way around. The solenoids are energized to turn off the coolant flow to the heater core. When the solenoids are relaxed (same as disconnecting the plug as previously suggested), you get full flow to the heater core.
If you need any more help, just come knock on the van. I'll tell you, this thing is great. It's amazing what you can find on eBay.
A few thoughts (Now that my no heat dilemma is finally sorted)
Did you ohm test your old DCCV? The 2000 - 2002 ACCM units are more "built" for DCCV overload vs. the 03+ ACCM's but doesn't mean an electrically crapped out DCCV can't fry the CCM board.
Did you buy a new DCCV yet?
Did you ohm test your "junkyard" special? Did you connect the DCCV plug and try to visually see solenoid operation before hooking up the hoses, filling up with coolant?
Did you visually look to see if the ports were open before installing. (Remember, no plug defaults to full open/heat)
Have you opened the bleed screw next to the master cylinder to burp the heater core? That opening is the highest point in the cooling system.
Net, net - your ACCM seems fine and you need to invest in a new DCCV...
ok. I am having this issue myself... no heat. not overheating, but sooo cold brrr!
LOL seems we're all in the Pacific Northwest.. Tacoma specifically.
Mostly posting so i can keep up with this thread.
i wont be able to do this all by my girly self, but i need to know what's up before i allow any of my husbands mechanic friends near my baby. (hubby had a stroke, so hes no longer able to do. and Dad's too far away) And i've been known to turn a wrench to help...
My car, my way, no shortcuts, no aftermarket parts, no way.
Mike, I got to wondering about that suspect DCCV you installed. Remember the original one had the two valves failed nearly closed? I know the DCCV is a booger to change, but if you unhooked those two hoses, could you see inside with an inspection mirror? Then you'd know for sure before tackling another replacement.
Mike, I got to wondering about that suspect DCCV you installed. Remember the original one had the two valves failed nearly closed? I know the DCCV is a booger to change, but if you unhooked those two hoses, could you see inside with an inspection mirror? Then you'd know for sure before tackling another replacement.
It will be short of impossible to get those two specific hoses off the DCCV let alone get an inspection mirror up there with the DCCV in place on the car.
That area in the V8 engine compartment is very, very tight and congested to say the least.
I had to remove the lower shields, air cleaner/intake hose assembly, aux pump and radiator shroud/engine cooling fan assembly just to get working space to get to the 2 hose clamps and the 3 heater hoses to get to the DCCV and the two attaching bolts to lift the unit out.
Everything can be done from up top, except that one DCCV bolt near the fender well. Only can be accessed from below with a long extension and swivel head.
Unfortunately if Mike cannot get those metal lines to the heater core hot after bleeding the system the entire DCCV has to come back out as a unit with all 5 hoses intact and then bench test/inspect for soleniod operation.
I hate to say it but more than likely the used DCCV solenoids are probably seized in place from "non use" being in a wrecker...
just a update, i took the dccv out, bypassed it and now i have heat. i know i know not the right way but right then second im short on money for parts. thats the reason i tired the junk yard one. i did take it out today for some pics
just a update, i took the dccv out, bypassed it and now i have heat.
So when you say "bypassed" what did you specifically do? I'm sure others have already told you these cars are money pits...
If you took it out all together your going to have two problems. One, I hope you have hooked up all the hoses correctly to ensure proper coolant flow throughout the entire engine or you could have bigger issues.
Second, without the DCCV being in the vehicle you will not have AC in a few months as the DCCV cuts off coolant to the heater core to allow cold air into the cabin.
I would highly recommend getting a replacement DCCV reinstalled ASAP. You can find DCCV units (new) on eBay for about $50
I see all these suggestion about DCCV valve and I solved the same issues with a now thermostat housing because even in my 2008 it was so degraded inside it wouldn't direct the coolant into the heater circuit or hold the thermostat in place. After that fix more heat and lots of fan noise but not enough for Canada. Turned out 2 heater doors needed replacing. Maybe check out that solution.
I see all these suggestion about DCCV valve and I solved the same issues with a now thermostat housing because even in my 2008 it was so degraded inside it wouldn't direct the coolant into the heater circuit or hold the thermostat in place. After that fix more heat and lots of fan noise but not enough for Canada. Turned out 2 heater doors needed replacing. Maybe check out that solution.
2008 vs. 2000 cooling systems way different! Thermostat housings different and the 2000 4.0 has an aluminum housing available.
The OP in this thread figured out his no heat condition to a faulty DCCV.
I understand why I didn't have heat but second problem is the fan stuck on. If I turn the heater ac off. It kicks down the fan a little bit and if I put it on max it blows more but u can never turn it off. This is a 2001 with nav but as far as I can tell it doesn't have a rccm those came in 2003. What unit would make the fan stuck on?
I understand why I didn't have heat but second problem is the fan stuck on. If I turn the heater ac off. It kicks down the fan a little bit and if I put it on max it blows more but u can never turn it off. This is a 2001 with nav but as far as I can tell it doesn't have a rccm those came in 2003. What unit would make the fan stuck on?
Where are you with the DCCV? I'd finish up that before tackling the fan issue. It's possible the controller is in some default backup mode if the DCCV is not connected. Just a guess on my part if that is what's happening, but I'd definitely fix the known faults before digging deeper.
Where are you with the DCCV? I'd finish up that before tackling the fan issue. It's possible the controller is in some default backup mode if the DCCV is not connected. Just a guess on my part if that is what's happening, but I'd definitely fix the known faults before digging deeper.
There is no DCCV in the vehicle currently.
Not sure exactly how OP bypassed it (I'm presuming with plastic hose adaptors to connect each end of hoses together) but your talking about bypassing 5 hoses ensuring the flow of coolant is going in the right direction to/from engine, including aux coolant circuit (which we both know goes towards thermostat housing)
Problem solved,
i ordered a used blower resistor off ebay for 23 shipped. I was looking at the shop time on replacing one and it shows 6.4 hrs. Im guessing they want you to remove the dash to get to it.I was digging around last night and found where it plugged in. So I u plugged the old one and plugged in the new one and it works like it should now. Instead of removing the dash to get the old one out i just tucked it up behind the glove box. I know its not correct but it works.
12-28-2016, 08:21 PM
