'05 xtype 3.0 engine noise/ticking
#1
'05 xtype 3.0 engine noise/ticking
Hello all,
I found some engine noise issues via the search, but thought it would be best suited to upload a video for all to hear/see.
I don't usually drive the Jag, but I noticed yesterday while driving a ticking sound when passing other vehicles, so I investigated this am. I took it to pick up a tool and the tick was still there and it gets louder under a load.
Please see the video below where you can hear the noise with and without the hood open. I rev'ed to about 2750 RPMs with the hood open.
Also, I noticed that he temp was about halfway between cool and hot. Being I don't drive the car much, is this normal or have something to do with the noise? If you watch in the video as well,look at the coolant get sucked away in the short time I give it gas. Is this normal too?
Thanks as always for the great help on here!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mr3sEZQIPxI
I found some engine noise issues via the search, but thought it would be best suited to upload a video for all to hear/see.
I don't usually drive the Jag, but I noticed yesterday while driving a ticking sound when passing other vehicles, so I investigated this am. I took it to pick up a tool and the tick was still there and it gets louder under a load.
Please see the video below where you can hear the noise with and without the hood open. I rev'ed to about 2750 RPMs with the hood open.
Also, I noticed that he temp was about halfway between cool and hot. Being I don't drive the car much, is this normal or have something to do with the noise? If you watch in the video as well,look at the coolant get sucked away in the short time I give it gas. Is this normal too?
Thanks as always for the great help on here!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mr3sEZQIPxI
#2
Join Date: May 2008
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From the sounds of things, you have a leaking exhaust manifold gasket. What happens is the leak causes the backpressure on the exhaust manifold to drop, which causes the valve to bounce, leading to the ticking that you are hearing. I would start there and see what you can find. When attempting to find the source of the leak, get your hands on some tygon tubing. PUt one end of the hose up to your ear and then run the other end around the suspected leaks (works for both exhaust leaks and vacuum leaks). As the end of the tube gets near the leak, you will hear the leak in the tube.
As for the coolant, I think that is normal. It is just the two halves of the overflow bottle deviating. So, you are not loosing coolant, it just can not equalize as fast as you think it should. It may be that the orifice that feeds the line going to the back side of the overflow bottle has gotten a little bigger and it is pushing a little too much coolant to the overflow bottle.
As for the coolant, I think that is normal. It is just the two halves of the overflow bottle deviating. So, you are not loosing coolant, it just can not equalize as fast as you think it should. It may be that the orifice that feeds the line going to the back side of the overflow bottle has gotten a little bigger and it is pushing a little too much coolant to the overflow bottle.
#3
From the sounds of things, you have a leaking exhaust manifold gasket. What happens is the leak causes the backpressure on the exhaust manifold to drop, which causes the valve to bounce, leading to the ticking that you are hearing. I would start there and see what you can find. When attempting to find the source of the leak, get your hands on some tygon tubing. PUt one end of the hose up to your ear and then run the other end around the suspected leaks (works for both exhaust leaks and vacuum leaks). As the end of the tube gets near the leak, you will hear the leak in the tube.
As for the coolant, I think that is normal. It is just the two halves of the overflow bottle deviating. So, you are not loosing coolant, it just can not equalize as fast as you think it should. It may be that the orifice that feeds the line going to the back side of the overflow bottle has gotten a little bigger and it is pushing a little too much coolant to the overflow bottle.
As for the coolant, I think that is normal. It is just the two halves of the overflow bottle deviating. So, you are not loosing coolant, it just can not equalize as fast as you think it should. It may be that the orifice that feeds the line going to the back side of the overflow bottle has gotten a little bigger and it is pushing a little too much coolant to the overflow bottle.
I have been traveling alot lately and haven't had time to focus on the Jag. I have other vehicles so it has been sitting since I originally posted this message. I hope to look further into the Jag with your suggestions this week and if I don't hear the leak schedule an appointment.
Thanks for all the support!
Best,
J
#4
I was told by a local mechanic it sounds like a rod knock. He would like to hear it in person though to see if the noise is coming from the top end or bottom end.
I have yet to listen for the leak, but plan to maybe tonight.
I don't believe the shop is trying to rip me off, because he said if it was a truly a rod knock, he wouldn't be interested in taking on the job at this time.
I have yet to listen for the leak, but plan to maybe tonight.
I don't believe the shop is trying to rip me off, because he said if it was a truly a rod knock, he wouldn't be interested in taking on the job at this time.
#6
I have 2004 Jaguar X-Type with 91k miles. One day I was driving home from work and engine started knocking, misfiring but I restarted the car and kept driving. Week later I got it towed to my uncle's dealership and had the mechanic check it. He said the car needed engine and told me it was going to be around $3,000. As a car guy I know that's too much So I went online and started looking for engine around the area (Virginia). I found one engine with 38k miles for $1450(engine)+70(tax)=$1,520(Total No Shipping charges) then I found mechanic who replaced it for $700. I bought all the parts (parts/fluids/oil/gasket) under $150. Car started on second try without any check engine light. Everything was done under $2500. Remember after you get your engine replaced you have to drive the car for about 50miles (on the highway without stopping) so the engine can calculate the MPG. Also today I found out that engine went bad because when my mom had the car she was using regular gas (87) since she bought the car. I was using it too until I searched online and found out that Jaguar X-Type uses (97 or 93).
#7
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#8
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JImmie, the fuel ratings that you are talking about are the British and American ratings. The British (and most of the rest of the world) use a slightly different way to measure the octane levels in gasoline. So, when you look at fuel in most of the world, their octane ratings are slightly higher due to the different process. So, in England (for example), you need to run atleast Grade 97 fuel where the same fuel in the US is 93 Octane. I did a post awhile back explaining the difference between the fuel ratings and how they interrelate.
#9
stealthies, your motor does not have rods. It is overhead cam. So, the cam directly actuates the valves. So, no rods to worry about. Now, you may have a lifter that is sticking. The lifter is what keeps tension on the rocker and if that sticks, it can cause a ticking sound.
Would you suggest that I tow the vehicle to a Jag dealer? Or, so I just find another local shop to provide an opinion?
Edit: maybe I should note that the car drives fine, no misfireing, no lack of power (granted I didnt try to get on it).
#10
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#11
So, I had some time and looked into the car a bit. I don't know why I didn't check earlier, but she was a bit low on oil. I put in 3 quarts to top her off. I let her run for a while and the drove it to the hardware store and back, and she is still making the ticking noise.
On my return to the house, the oil light started blinking when I slow down and come to a stop. It is more like a flicker. Really thinking of taking it to Jaguar at this point. Any thoughts?
On my return to the house, the oil light started blinking when I slow down and come to a stop. It is more like a flicker. Really thinking of taking it to Jaguar at this point. Any thoughts?
#12
Finally had a chance to get it to a shop to be looked at.
It definitely has lower end knock and I was informed it isn't worth trying to fix it but rather replace the engine.
I looked through some of the other posts and members are stating labor should be around $2,000. The cheapest I could find Jaguar labor is $2300 and I am awaiting call backs from local shops.
My question is, is it worth putting around $4,000 into a car that is only worth about $9k? What would you guys do?
It definitely has lower end knock and I was informed it isn't worth trying to fix it but rather replace the engine.
I looked through some of the other posts and members are stating labor should be around $2,000. The cheapest I could find Jaguar labor is $2300 and I am awaiting call backs from local shops.
My question is, is it worth putting around $4,000 into a car that is only worth about $9k? What would you guys do?
#13
So, the car has been sitting in the garage for a while. I finally broke down and bought my wife a MDX, so she still has an x
Anyway, I have been debating what to do with the car. After speaking with a few friends, it was mentioned that it could be a rocker arm making this noise. Hopefully I have some time this weekend to take the valve cover off to see if there is any issue. If so, is a rocker arm replacement easy, or would a shop need to perform?
Anyway, I have been debating what to do with the car. After speaking with a few friends, it was mentioned that it could be a rocker arm making this noise. Hopefully I have some time this weekend to take the valve cover off to see if there is any issue. If so, is a rocker arm replacement easy, or would a shop need to perform?
#14
#16
Finally had a chance to get it to a shop to be looked at.
It definitely has lower end knock and I was informed it isn't worth trying to fix it but rather replace the engine.
I looked through some of the other posts and members are stating labor should be around $2,000. The cheapest I could find Jaguar labor is $2300 and I am awaiting call backs from local shops.
My question is, is it worth putting around $4,000 into a car that is only worth about $9k? What would you guys do?
It definitely has lower end knock and I was informed it isn't worth trying to fix it but rather replace the engine.
I looked through some of the other posts and members are stating labor should be around $2,000. The cheapest I could find Jaguar labor is $2300 and I am awaiting call backs from local shops.
My question is, is it worth putting around $4,000 into a car that is only worth about $9k? What would you guys do?
#17
Just had my engine replaced after it started ticking and the oil light began flickering....then BANG!!! Something gave out and started clanking around. I was told I spun a bearing and even if I fixed the issue, it was possible something else was damaged. Got the engine and labor for $2400. Just remember when it comes to price...you get what you pay for. If the price is a steal, there's a reason. Taking mine to All Jaguar in Longwood, FL to get looked at to make sure the job was done right. The guy that did it didn't impress me.
The engine light only flickered that one day. It is parked in the garage and I am going to see if the rocker arm(s) is/are shot. Maybe I will get lucky.
#19
Alright, I am ready to start tinkering with the x again. She has been sitting in the garage all this time.
Can anyone provide me with a methodical method of getting to the valve covers to remove them so I can see if I have any broken rocker arms. I can just start removing items, but if there is a method to the madness, it would be much appreciated.
Can anyone provide me with a methodical method of getting to the valve covers to remove them so I can see if I have any broken rocker arms. I can just start removing items, but if there is a method to the madness, it would be much appreciated.
#20
You can get a used x type engine for about $1,000, with <90k on it.
I hate to keep harping on this. But, the number one reason our engines fail, or any engine fails, is lack of upkeep or incorrect lubes. Our engines call for 5w-30, full synthetic oil. This stuff isn't cheap, (~$10-$15 a quart). I recommend Royal Purple or Amsoil full syn. (I've found that full syn. is some of the only stuff that meets ILSAC GF3, API SJ cert. which it calls for. And, my local dealership told me to only change it with full syn).
So everyone, if you keep blowing engines look at your maintenance schedule and what type of lube you're putting in it.
I hate to keep harping on this. But, the number one reason our engines fail, or any engine fails, is lack of upkeep or incorrect lubes. Our engines call for 5w-30, full synthetic oil. This stuff isn't cheap, (~$10-$15 a quart). I recommend Royal Purple or Amsoil full syn. (I've found that full syn. is some of the only stuff that meets ILSAC GF3, API SJ cert. which it calls for. And, my local dealership told me to only change it with full syn).
So everyone, if you keep blowing engines look at your maintenance schedule and what type of lube you're putting in it.