My 16 XJR had one light at a time come on. Then cascading failures abs, traction check engine modules power steering you name it. Then while updating my
SDD system with what I later found out is a fake mongoose cable (sold as real) it crashed in the middle of updating gateway module. Everything suddenly went black and shut off. No response from
anything. Then. My car started but no radio or speedo Display. Pure black in the car. But no brake or accelerator when pedal pushed just an idling engine. Jaguar Tulsa can’t even connect to it or anything at all now. They say it’s regressing and want $1500 to redo the mechanical repairs to check for pinched wires. When I swapped out the coolant pipes under supercharger. (only wires are the knock sensor harness and they aint pinched.)

I did replace 2 knock sensors plugs. Could reverse wiring do that somehow ? 99.9% sure I got them correct. Was 100 until this. Maybe I swapped the other identical plugs on that same wire harness idk. What could possibly be doing this. The tech has spent 9
hours diagnostic time so far. ​​​​​ I can’t give them a blank check. What would you do ? What should I check ?

Im a man of my word and if someone sends me the correct fix before JLR tulsa or I tell them then Ill send it via cash app or zelle paypal. Im loosing my mind on this deal im that desperate.

Have you tried updating the Gateway module again? Or configuring it as a new module?

If the Gateway module is now showing a red cross, it is sometimes possible to recover it which I can try to explain depending on the answers to the above question.

According to them they can稚 login and do anything now. Initially they could log in. And do a little
but now it痴 almost non recognizable to anything they do. No Speedo display I mean it痴 black as night in there when you try and do anything.

Jaguar Land Rover Tulsa is usually really really
good. I知 shocked they are scratching their heads. 9 hours and the car is still a brick sitting there. I think
the gateway module was the original issue it couldn稚 communicate with but with that cause a series of cascading failures. It痴 insane. Before the coolant line blew I didn稚 have a single problem. Not a light one

I dont understand the "login" you refer to. Are they using SDD?

Fake Mongoose cable is responsible for this, not your coolant service. Do some reading on how SDD interacts with the different modules in your car- you may need to unplug all modules and reset one at a time with SDD before they begin to talk to each other again.

I assume that痴 what they mean. I don稚 know what other software they壇 be hooking hooking up with.

But they are telling me they can稚 communicate with it at all now. Can you take them out and do a bench reset ? Is that what you mean ?

Without you doing the scanning with SDD yourself it almost impossible for you to describe what's going on so we can help?

I have bricked a car with my clone cable and as gt40 says I had to take a deep breath and start all over again. Mine was an older XJ but I had nothing at all working or powering up and the key would turn in the ignition too! I had to go back thru and get rid of the red X's gt40 is talking about. Are you familiar with what he is talking about in SDD?

Here is a picture of my car's initial scan when first hooked up to SDD. Just as an example to give you an idea of what things look like.




Ignore the update message as I was fighting that problem when I took the picture. But the car has no red X's which is what you want to see.

But SDD has so many variations I maybe off in left field here?
Do you know if they were using the proper power supply and the SDD system laptop was plugged in and NOT running on battery? Just some things to check that have caused big problems in the past.
.
.
.

well i mean its JLR tulsa a really good dealership in my past experiances with them. Now as far as was I using a proper power supply I dont know. I was using a power supply and I had it set to 40 amps most of the time. How do you know what a proper one is ? could that and the cable of been what crashed it ? is there some list if certified power supply/charging stations ?
thanks jj

The power supply should not be just a battery charger, the current they output is too dirty. I made myself one out of a refurbished HP server power supply, like so: https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1262137

Take a deep breath and start from square one.
1. Ensure your main battery uis charged completely. That means 12.8-12.9v. What is the date code on the battery?
2. Don't use a fake Mongoose cable. There are several alternatives, do some research on this forum and others.
3. Laptop should be connected to mains power (just in case).
4. Ensure no major fuses are blown and everything is plugged in under the engine bay.

everything was good


i HAD NO IDEA ABOUT THE CHARGER AND THE DIRTY POWER. THATS MY BAD BUT YOU DONT KNOW WHAT YOU DONT KNOW. ILL CHECK OUT THE LINK THANK YOU
I installed brand new interstate oem battery before it happened.
of course noT
I HAD IT PLUGGED IN BC IT ASK TO DO THAT
EVERY FUSE WAS CHECKED BY A METER

As pointed out by clubairth1, you need to have access to your car with your own SDD connected in order for us to help with troubleshooting. Without that all we can do is guess.

A few things can cause loss of communication with a module.
1. The module may have literally burnt out. Only option is to replace.
2. Faulty canbus wiring.
3. Faulty module on the canbus which can block communication with other modules.
4. Corrupted software/firmware on the offending module which can happen if there is an interruption during an update. This can be due to a problem with the data transmission or from a power interruption - all it needs is a momentary interruption of either of these to "brick" a module. In some cases this can lead to point 3.
5. Faulty Mongoose or other interface. Genuine is best but many people have been using clones for years with no problem. On later vehicles, some clones can cause communication faults with many of the vehicles systems and need an easy modification to work correctly.
6. Low battery voltage or poor quality power support unit.

There are very specific procedures that need to be followed if one is to successfully recover a bricked module. If you do end up wanting to try to repair it yourself, I suggest you dont even connect SDD until you have reported back here and we can try to talk you through.

SDD is well known to brick the GWM modules on this vehicles. Wrong flash erase sequence and aborted data transfer.
Sometimes a second attempt of reflash helps. If not - still can be recovered either by flashing using a non-OEM flashing software or flashing a dump on a bench using a BDM programmer.

Your getting good advice above and I only want to add a bit about power supplies? See the attached document where Jaguar goes into detail on what they want powering the car while using SDD.

But as posted above you can use power supplies not on Jaguars list IF you are aware of ripple and other factors. One big red flag on most supplies is they never mention noise or ripple ratings and both matter when using SDD as gt40 mentioned above. I use an IOTA DLS-55 power supply. I learned my lesson the hard way coming from what I "thought" was stout battery charger. They are NOT the same!

I am also amazed at how much current the car consumes when using SDD? I have seen 30+ amps on my clamp on ammeter for long periods of time. Now what SDD does with all that current I can't say but it does require a stout regulated DC power supply to work properly.

Also note Moscow Leaper's comment? That is another step up entirely beyond SDD as you can attack the repair all the way down to chip level inside the module if you know what your doing.
.
.
.

The funny thing is that on these vehicles if the GWM is not working properly (however there still may be comms with GWM) you'll be unable to have comms with ANY other module using a SDD. Also the GWM is controlling a power for infortaiment and lots of other things, so if its "bricked" - nothing works like it should (just no power).
Ive quit using a JLR software, since even with an original cables it itroduces TONS of issues.
-Topix cloud brick gateways while loading a CCF
-SDD can't access a 2010-2016 BCMs if JLR-VCI is used
-SDD bricks whole lot of modules
-Lots of times SDD can't program a new module or doing it VERY wrong (like a last time during attempt to program 2 new keys in new RFA it ended up programming 0 keys and locking RFA. Nice!)
Basically even if one is using the SDD/Cloud (pathfinder is not working anymore) with original dealer/indie account - i advise to stay out of module updates/programming if you don't have some advanced skills in electronic repairs.

What do you use in place of SDD?
I have a working Pathfinder setup but don't want to pay by the minute thru Topix to use it!
.
.
.

im kinda getting the vibe from you like I致e already felt like that 1 SDD Sucks and 2 you know your stuff !! I致e ordered a replacement GMW just in case. So like Clubairth1 asked what do you use then for programming modules ?

Mine own software in place of SDD, Pathfinder and Cloud.
At the moment PF setup is pretty much useless, JLR switched off old servers, so PF can't load as-build information about a vehicle and w/o this information it is basically only good to read DTCs and clear DTCs. Most of the service functions, flashing is disabled.

Absolutely suxx.
Once you'll have an access to your vehicle - let me know, most likely ill be able to unbrick your GWM w/o even replacing/removing it.
Drop me a line in a PM and ill share a contact details. Please not, im not in a US, so we're a bit limited in available hours due to the big difference in a TZ.

UPDATE

MoscowLeaper thank you for the offer sir. I had already started working with GT40 on doing this or I would have taken you up on it. UPDATE . I am not convinced that 1 being a fake cable led to the issue along with a non suitable power supply do not use a battery charger. You need constant unwavering power. I have clipped one of the pins I believe pin 12 actually. Ill post it below. GT40 is the man let me tell you. He knows his way around SDD. After fully charging the battery for 3 days we then reloaded the as built file from a long ago session. That at least go us up and going. After that we basically started going thru the modules one by one and updating them with the newest firmware updates. So far I havent had to remove a single thing but we are still working and just downloaded 3 hours of updates. Currently still having a few communication problems so I rolled my tune back to the OEM file, Once we are in the clear ill reinstall my STAGE 3 tune. I will keep you updated but for now our $100 winner is GT40 !! hes the man !! more info to come.