I read in one of the posts that pepboys will read it for free. You can get the trouble codes and search it in the forums if you want. I got my OBDII reader at Costco and it works great. Sorry to hear about not resolving the ABS module issue.

 

C1095 is the fault that usually requires the solder repair of the circuit board.

C1145 = Usually link harness to RF wheel sensor, sometimes circuit board resolder, though rare.

C1155 = Usually link harness to LF wheel sensor, sometimes circuit board resolder, though rare.

C1165 = Usually link harness to RR wheel sensor, crud buildup on RR sensor, or sometimes circuit board resolder, though rare.

C1175 = Usually link harness to LR wheel sensor, crud buildup on LR sensor, or sometimes circuit board resolder, though rare.

95% of our ABS faults are covered by the above repairs.

First step is always to have the code read so you know which way to go.

Good luck!

 

Only a dealer has the equipment to read the codes.

The next suspect is the LH ABS sensor lead that runs from the wheel and connects under the fender. You might want to clean the fender connector, get a new connector or splice in new cable.

I cleaned the fender connector and it offered temporary relief. I am going into the ABS module next to look at the connectors. I reckon that I will have to it sooner or later.

 

Cleaning the wheel sensors are step 1 when there's a ABS light--very easy to pull (1 bolt). Just wash the contact points with dishwashing liquid and a toothbrush--being careful to keep water out of the electrical connector. I see you've already addressed the contact point resoldering.

An ohm meter on the ABS module wire contacts can tell you if the ABS module is good or if there's a ABS motor problem. Another area to address is the wiring to the sensors--especially to the front wheels.

ABS, DSC, TCM and ECM modules are all intermingled--through wiring. There can be short circuits, ground problems, continuity problems, CAN problems. It's just all so complicated.

Jag Parts are just so devilishly expensive that there's just no substitution for quality analysis. You just cannot start guessing and buying parts. I'd be looking for an Indy with a Autoenginuity scanner (with operational Jag software.) Sometimes it's best to suck it up and take the car to the dealer for diagnosis--and then fix it yourself.

NOTE: Autoecu.com @ 866-983-6688 is 1 hr. north of Asheville (in TN), and they remanufacture Jag ECM's and most all other modules--if needed.

Just take it step by step. Good Luck!

 

Well, anyone with one of the "dealer" packages, or GenRad, or AutoEnginuity software should be able to read the codes. I am pretty sure Pep, Autozone et al do not read manufacturer specific codes. Not sure which independents in Charlotte area have it, but the charge should be the minimum shop time- so somewhere around $100.

 

I'm surprised to hear that. I know for a fact that I can go to O'reilley auto parts store here in san Francisco and the staff is kind enough to plug in their meter to read OBD II codes. They don't even work on cars. I just take the codes from them and read them online.

 

These are not OBDII codes. A regualr OBDII reader will not read them - like sparkenzap said. If you're cleaning the wheel speed sensors and you have a multimeter you can check the resistance on each wheel sensor while you're at it. If one is infinite, you know you have a problem.

 

I went to my local independent repair shop and they read the ABS codes for free, confirming it was a faulty module. Took 2 minutes.

They charge about $350 to do the job.

 

I agree with you Jim, a multimeter will do the trick. I was referring to trouble codes generated by the on board computer. Lucky for me I didn't have too much problems with my ABS module. I sent it out to Module Masters and got it back yesterday. Installed it, performed a lengthy test drive around the city and I'm happy to say that I have NO MORE ABS/Traction Control error messages. Kudos to Module Master

 

That's a GREAT price!!!

 

He probably would send mine off for $100 rebuild and charge me $250 for the labor. I got a price but not all the details of how he does it.

 

A well known independent Jag mechanic in my area wanted to charge me $900. $350 is awesome compared to my quote.

 

I've got the ABS / TRAC unavailable issue common with the 01. Getting ready to do the timing chain as soon as it quits snowing, and plan on doing home repair on the module while she's down. I'd pulled all the wheels, cleaned wheel speed sensors and checked resistance on front before realizing the rear harnesses disappeared into the body behind the back seat. Did some searching and made a few posts and found a real friend. A jag tech, sent me the specs and pin layout for the module connector. If you've got a multi-meter you can check the individual circuits for the wheel sensors for the proper resistance (attached file). Could save you some time and a few bucks. The basic code readers won't give you ABS feedback. I took mine into a shop that's tweaked my BMW to find out the wife left the gas cap loose - cost me 45 bucks to find out the Jag has the same fuel system vacuum sensor as most others and that 10k reader wasn't capable of pulling Jag ABS codes, at least it didn't pull any while I had it there. I'm sure the dealer has a reader for it, but you can probably get the same info they'll give you with the DIY test. I thought the attached image had the info on the pins (must be in my other laptop) do a forum search for ABS module diagram and you'll find a schematic that will show the pins to test for each wheel. Or let me know and I'll check my other laptop and send it to you.

 

This is not a difficult process but does take a little time and a strong desire to save a few bucks. This procedure is well documented and is a great illustration https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=37907 Think of the satisfaction when you do it. If you need info on the codes try this link http://www.gusglikas.com/images/Auto...xk8%201999.pdf I hope this helps!

 

Which pins do you check and what should be the resistance?

Thanks,

Dan

 

PM me with an e-mail and I'll send you the whole Electrical Manual for the 2001, it's PDF and has every schematic on the car, layouts for every module on it, and the specs. It's something every owner should have.

RH Front - Pins 3/4
LH Front - Pins 17/18
RH Rear - Pins 7/6
LH Rear - Pins 21/22

Resistance should be in the 1000 to 1200 ohm range is what I was told. All of mine tested a little over 1100.
From what I've read, a circuit fault is typically in the harness lead directly off the sensors. The leads on the front wheels are about 18-24" and plug up in the wheel well (just follow the lead to the white connector), the rear leads are longer and disappear through a grommet in the floor pan behind the rear seat. I suppose the connectors are the same but you have to pull the seat bottom out to access them. What I saw indicated the seat could be pulled with removal of a few screws but, it seamed easier to check the circuits before I went through that. If they all test out, make sure the sensor heads are clean. You have to pull the wheels, and the sensors are mounted directly to the back side of the rotor (1 screw). Build up on the head could interfere with the signal. But if they're clean and the circuits check out, my info says it's the module. As mentioned in other posts, there is a posted fix (pics and all) that details the DIY fix for the solder pts on the module. If you go that route, I've come across posts that the car is drivable as brake lines are not removed (maintaining standard braking ability), however I've recently found a few posts that indicate removal of the module disconnects a variety of other components utilizing the wheel speed sensors, and driving without it sends the system into restricted (limp home mode). I've not been able to get any confirmation, but it might be something to keep in mind.

 

This thread started with a question about Module Masters. I just had mine fixed by them - 98 with traction control. Cost about $120 after all was said and done (shipping). I just finished installing the repaired module and all is good again. They even have vehicle specific directions for removal and install. The most time consuming part was bleeding the system afterwards. Unlike others here, I could not get the thing out of the car without looseing three of the brake lines first.

Joe
98 VDP

 

MAYBE YOU SHOULD HAVE JUST HIRED SOMEONE DOWN THE STREET TO DO IT FOR YOU

 

Bob, I have an OBD-II purchased an OBD-II , connected to my 99 XJ8 VDP and all I get is P1000 indicating an incomplete read. Do I need some special software for the Jag? or should my generic reader work?

Thanks in Advance for your help.

 

Evidently, generic OBD readers cannot talk to the Jaguar ABS system. Don't know why it's so hard to do technically, but they don't.