I'm very impressed .
there are a lot of pros to this besides the possibility of a few more HP . and a squige of better fuel economy ! I'm kind of keen to hear about the possibility
of eliminating the EGR monitor also with this tune ?

this also reminds me of a couple of years back making a start up map for my wolf 3D V3 powered datsun . absolute brain fryer for the computer impaired.
loving your guys work here !! i do feel sorry for the poor guy tapping keys in the dungeon , whilst we're all talking about it . though it seem pay day is coming very near for this man . kudos to you guys . thanks aye

 

OK more updates.

Regarding the EGR delete, no.

The long answer is that disabling the a EGR on a non-VVT petrol engine would have negative effects on the mid-range throttle response. If you remove/disable the EGR the timing and fuel will have to corrected to avoid detonation. On the VVT petrol engines the EGR could be removed, since the valve timing with the VVT has it's own EGR-like effects. But the gains from doing this are... questionable...

Regarding the ignition timing based on the IAT2 temps, a better explanation now.

The 03-05 cars only had one tune for all markets, and this had to cover the worst grades of fuel i.e. 91 RON / 87 AKI, so the ignition timing retardation from IAT2 is based on the detonation properties of 91 RON / 87 AKI, basically if you're running 98 RON / 93 AKI, or even 95 RON / 91 AKI the timing is being pulled back unnecessarily as charge temps rise, as you're not going to be near the point of detonation at those charge temps if you're running the higher grades of fuel.

Yes there were two types of factory tune, "smooth road market" and "rough road market" but this was only related to misfire monitoring https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/g...hicles-115786/ the fuel/spark and IAT2 ignition compensation was the same for all markets.

And yes there were also different emissions specifications, FED/NAS, EURO2, EURO3, etc, but again no changes in regards to the grade of fuel used.

For the 2006-onward cars there were different factory tunes for different markets, which covered the fuel grade, as well as emissions and the misfire monitoring / smooth or rough road. Long story short, if your 2006-onward vehicle is a UK, EU, NAS, ROW specification car, it's designed for 95 RON / 91 AKI fuel and the ignition timing reductions based on IAT2 temps is nowhere near as severe as the earlier cars. Also the way that the timing is pulled is on a different strategy to the earlier cars.

So what does this mean?

Well firstly it means i've wasted a lot of money on 98 RON and 100 RON fuel over the years. It also means I was experiencing the placebo effect when I was running 100 RON in the car when it was in Switzerland & Germany.

But it also means there is an improvement to be had in the tune if you are not running the car on crappy fuel!

The UK has 99 RON, also 98 RON / 93 AKI
Germany, Switzerland has 98 RON / 93 AKI, and from Shell you can get 100 RON
Australia, New Zealand, 95 RON / 91 AKI & 98 RON / 93 AKI, plus various other lower grades
The USA & Canada, 93 AKI / 98 RON, but not everywhere, some people only get 91 AKI / 95 RON

What this means for the 2003-2005 cars is that we need to make two different tunes, one for 98 RON / 93 AKI, and one for 95 RON / 91 AKI. There will be some differences between the tunes in the "Spark Advance IAT2 temperature compensation"

As the weather is now getting warmer in Oz, the plan is to run some tests in my XJR, using 95 RON / 91 AKI fuel, and to adjust the IAT2 temperature compensation until it knocks, then back it off a couple of notches. Then do the same with 98 RON / 93 AKI fuel.

Ultimately even if you only run 95 RON / 91 AKI fuel there is still quite some improvements to be had over the stock tune. But for me, i'll be taking the 98 RON / 93 AKI option thanks

 

By time your done with new wheels and tires you could buy a LSD which will be more effective!

 

Cambo, your findings wrt use of 95/98 RON are very interesting and useful to know.

 

Agreed. But since my wheels need refinishing, I might as well buy new ones. I still want the LSD but I have to control my spending as I'm pending a transfer back to beautiful Washington state.

I may still do the tune, intake pipe and pulley. I just need to figure out the best and most efficient way to obtain the tune.

 

Great info Cambo, and my experiences certainly underline what you have stated here!

That's why there was some good ignition advance possible on the older models without experiencing knock with higher octane fuels.

 

So I got my STR back today with the twin screw and all I can is WOW after driving it about 100 miles this evening. I went WOT numerous times and it truly goes and sounds like a beast, compared to when it had the pulley/exhaust/intake on the heaton. It feels from the seat as though it's gained about 100hp and it pulled hard to red line with with no torque limiters to be seen Driving around normally you can tell no difference to a stock car and it wafts along. I can see why Avos has always said not to bother modding the eaton and go TS, it's truly unbelievable. I've seen the light now. Thanks Avos for selling me this and I can't even imagine what the 2.6 is like! I think the power I have now is more than enough for me though.

Back on the current topic, I was telling my indie about my plans to use Cambo's tune and he told me he actually has IDS and a VCM and can access Teamviewer. So if you need a test mule for any of your tunes Cambo, just PM

 

Can't wait for it to be ready Cambo, it sounds like everything I need, more power, torque and top speed limiter removal! Very interested in before/ after Dyno on pre-VVT car.

JagSTR2004, I am very interested in hearing how you get on with your twin screw, mainly reliability and fuel economy in addition to the extra 100 or so extra BHP

 

I heard Camb'os offering his tune when completed for 50$ for forum members installed!!!

 

I think this must be a mistake . $50 wouldn't cover the power bill for cambo to remotely flash a tune via team viewer , let alone one of the hundreds of hours invested to make the tune . I'd say maybe talk to cambo and then edit your post ,
Befor this gets people's hopes up ,
I recon your missing digits .

 

Cambo far as I'm awere the egr is not open at WOT ,
And the knock sensers would deal with mid range knocks ,
And as you have previously mentioned you can afford to loose a bit of mid range . So I fail to see the issue , I have done over 1000km with the egr bypassed , and havnt heard any detnation sinse the new cats were fitted to my car ,
After cleaning out my TB and charge coolers I'm not atall keen to hook it back up to polute the intakes again , it would however be nice to eliminate the high idle overrun that is associated with the EGR bypass, and I've seen you post that monitors like down steem o2 monitors an be shut down via the tune . I for one would be happy to loose a little midrange for clean internals !

 

LOL, you're hilarious!

There is no set price at this time, however, you can expect the cost of the tune to be somewhere around what the "brand name" tuning companies offer, maybe a little lower, since we are nice guys.

 

I don't know the exact details of the EGR operation, and as you know i'm mostly just relaying the information I get from the source.

I'd imagine that one of the reasons you're not getting detonation with the EGR bypassed is that the IAT2-based ignition timing is still being pulled based on 91RON fuel, and presumable you're running 98RON? If we make adjustments to the IAT2-based ignition timing for 98RON and a functioning EGR, but you have the EGR bypassed, then i'd expect your would get the detonation.

We hadn't planned to make too many different versions of the tune, while yes it's technically possible to make another version for the EGR bypass, I'm not sure how keen our guy is to do it. Plus it would need testing to develop it, which is more work. I don't have an answer for you right now.

As for the catalyst efficiency monitoring, it's not actually part of the tune file, I've already had this disabled in my XJR for quite some time, since I put the 100 cell cats on.

 

At least you got the joke Cambo!

 

Just to add to what I relayed earlier on this subject. The knock sensors only detect when there is actual knocking occuring, which is kind of too late, they are really a last line of defense and it's not a great idea to let them try to save the engine all the time. The tune will not be using the knock sensors to manage the timing, they remain as a safety net though.

As for the intake choking up, the vast majority of crap the goes into your intake is actually coming from the PCV, it's only a very small amount that's coming in via the EGR. Yes for sure on diesels the EGR is big contributor to the intake filling with crap, but it's far less on a petrol engine. If you want to keep your intake clean, then a catch-can on the PCV would have a far greater effect than disabling the EGR, or add some water injection.

Now for some exciting news. I have a tune file sitting in my inbox. Only one problem, I'm 7000kms away from the XJR right now, testing will have to wait until next week....

 

The catch can on the low load breather on my car is picking up quite a bit of oil. I have had issues with the one on the PCV/high load breather due to leaks which have not resolved as yet.Waiting for special hose. I would expect that to catch even more oil.

I was considering an EGR delete but you have convinced me that would be a waste of time.

 

once again your commute to work takes you further from home than most travel in a life time . not ideal aye .

that is some good news though , and a week is not to long to wait .cheers for the heads up .
on the PCV subject yes i have fitted a mishimoto catch can (baffled with 400 micron strainer) to the full load PCV . agreed most of the crap was coming from there . and its surprising how much oil is caught in a few hundred km's.
but the evidence of carbon trailing from the EGR inlet hole towards the SC inside the intake elbow was un arguable . and left a stubborn stain on every thing past this inlet hole .
the oil was easy to clean the carbon was not . i expect as my cats were blocked , there might have been excessive pressure through the EGR valve with maybe more recirculating than prescribed . but i can't be sure .
one thing i do know was the carbon in my charge coolers was oily carbon not just oil ! and seemed to only lead back to the EGR port .
i have been brought up to despise EGR and it will be unsettling for me to reinstate it . if there is a more expensive work around to have both a tune and EGR delete then just hit me with a price . i may reluctantly buckle.

BTW, you presumed correct . i am running 98ron fuel and some times 95 .

 

once again jackra I'm puzzled as to why you have oil coming from your part load breather . mine has zero oil emitting from part load . but a fair amount from the PCV . are you saying that you were getting oil in your intake before the TB ? iv never seen this happen before on a jag in the past . may be there is a splash guard missing from you cam cover ?

 

That is what I am saying Datsports.

 

Part load breather being the one that goes from the left side (LHD drivers side) cam cover to the intake elbow not far from the MAF. Mine is bone dry, nothing comes out of it, ever.