OK.

1) Yes. The 2nd snap is an Extra engine Earth strap. See #4 below for the 3rd snap.
2) Only remove the stat cover, as if changing the thermostat, it just gives that little extra room. Top up and bleed will be required.
3) Nope, just an idler pulley for the a/c belt. It was part of the emission junk back in the day. There is a metal pipe running aft from that pump, and one day when the engine comes out it can be removed. Removal with the engine in the chassis is simply not going to happen. It should be tied up out of the way.
4) Fair Dinlkum, I did that about 10 years ago, for the owner before Trevor. I do that to all of them, as the Factory wiring in the tube under the exhaust maniufold is not good enough. One less task when the upgrade alternator is fitted. The Factory wiring STAYS connected, that Extra, is just that, an Extra. There may be an extra Earth wire as well, too long ago to remember. The alt would be a 75amp. I dont remember ever having it off, but I lost track of that car for about 3 years before Trevor got it, so who knows.

Sometimes if you are blessed, a proper Jaguar a/c idler arm and pulley appears, and teh air pump can be done away with. Might be worth asking Phil, coz youy will have the air pump out for the alternator.

ALSO, when you upgrade the alternator, the belt stays the same size, as does the a/c belt IF you find one of those idler bracket thingies. Just tell Phil you are fitting that alternator to a 5.3HE and using an "11" Series drive belt. He will swap pullies to suit.

That idler assembly from my parts book.



When/if you find one of these, make sure you get the mounting bracket #16 as well. Someone clever could make it I suppose, but the original is the original.

 

Cheers again Grant. Thanks for all the info. Will probably pause this project now as I leave for work tomorrow. Will make arrangements and all in the interim.

So do you meant this mob:

Jaguar Spare Parts Supplier - Jag Prestige Spares- H/H Prestige Spares - Australia's Largest Independant - Used Land Rover Discovery Spare Parts

And it was Phil eh? Do you have a last name? (Probably doesnt matter)

So if its just the alternator (not sure if i will change the air pump yet) I will need to ask for:

110amp Bosch Alternator with 10mm LONG mounting bolt to suit 1 Blue Goose.

Sorry, did you say I should replace 11 series drive belt whilst I am there or only if I am doing away with the air pump?

And finally, does the Goose need to have the upgraded wiring or will the wire you added be adequate for the load? (ie. that step already done)


Cheers again mate...

 

Id go the 110A unit and eliminate the air pump (that is not used anyway)

No probs if he does not have the "bracket 16" ill just weld one up for you but easier if he does

Cheers
34by151

 

I just know him of Phil, and yes that is the Mob.

Your current belt will be just fine, UNLESS its showing wear, but it was not that old when you took Goose over. Being the rear most belt, all the others must come off first, so your call really. I would go the extra yard if I was doing it, coz that "Murphy" guy lives in my shed.

That "11" series belt is for teh alternator only, the other 2 belts are "13" series belts.

Alt = 11A0850
A/c inc air pump or idler = 13A1500.
P/steer inc water pump = 13A1090.

Yep, 110AMP alternator including that bolt.

The wiring will be just fine.

 

Cheers again

Heh question for you, and it is probably one of my beginner questions but if I upgrade from 75amp to 110amp...what advantage will that give me if I do not add more current draw to the system? (eg. Add subwoofer later on or something else to my car)

Is it merely for the "there if you need it" "mad if you don't" factor?

I plan to upgrade as you recommend but just curious.

(Am I missing a major point?)

Thanks for being patient with the apprentice!

Cheers

 

My take a long time ago was that:

The battery is only as good as the charging device looking after it.

That was way back in teh Generator days.

I knew the XJ-S alternator was a borderline capacity at teh time, and for teh year it was a gutsy unit.
The Lucas is flaky, no real parts available anymore.
The Motorola units were no better, and parts are worse.
The Bosch in Australia is the Bread and Butter brand, and parts are simple to find.

Crazy if you dont, HELL YES.

Missing something?, probably the plane to the rig.

To do the remove, drill the alloy bracket, refit and put back all the junk removed to get access, would be a good days hands on, INCLUDING drinks breaks.

The idler pulley is SIMPLE later on, coz availabilty of them is short, but then you just might be lucky.

 

The main job of the alt is to recharge the battery after starting

A bigger output gets this done quicker
In other words it a slightly higher load on the engine for a shorter time

As for loads while running, the big one is the plugs (via coil) and lamps
The load on the alt wont change as the car will draw what it draws

The difference in the bigger alt is it will be doing it easy where the small std one will be doing it hard

Think of it like going down the highway at 110kph.
The big V8 will just be ticking over with hardly any revs or load
The tiny 4 will be getting it neck run off
The V8 will use less gas tan the 4 for the same reason

It's the difference between doing it easy and pushing it hard

Cheers
34by151

 

Cheers again for the response.

Another question. When companies say an alternator is a 110Amp unit....does this means that 110Amps is its Full Load Amps? (Ie. The max amount of current she will draw under full load)

Grant whats typical current of a 1985 XJS say whilst driving at night with lights on and Air Con running?

Not near the car now but I seem to recall the main fuse was 80amps. Is that right?

 

Correct, 110amps (or whatever it is rated at) is the MAX output. If demand is not there, it wont get to that level.

The Goose:

Ac comp clutch 7amps
LH fan (a/c fan) 6 amps
Ignition system approx 8amps.
Fuel pump 6amps.
Interior fan, depending on speed selected, 6amps. approx.
Headlights 2 X 55watt =110W = 10amps approx.
Tailights, number palte 20watts = 2 amps approx.
Dash lighst, guess at 2 amps.
Stereo, guess 5amps.
Stop lamps, 3.5amps.
Othe stuff I have forgot, approx 4amps.

Soooo about 56amps until the brakes are applied, then 60amps.

Then when the RH thermo cuts in another 6amps draw.
Indicator lamps (flashers for some), another 4 amps.

Getting up to 70amps, without wiring resistance calculated.

The Lucas alternators were never good at idle, it is just how they are. Some high amp units (brands) are lousy also, but that Bosch unit is good at idle. It is from the XJ40 era cars.

What "main fuse", dont know that one. Highest fuse in the drivers side fuse block is Lucas 50amp, which is 35amp in todays talk.

 

Hmm, after I got my failed alt rebuilt for 130 amps, I noticed the same behavior. The ciggy VM as well as the dash vm indicates good charging, so i just left it and its been running fine even though the battery light comes on as the revs go past idle.

I had looked at the circuit, its a resistor in series with the dash lamp and then to thr 12v bus. At thr other end is the excitation terminal on the alternator. The way I understand it, as the alt starts charging, that terminal rises from ground voltage and goes up to 12v, hence the voltage difference between the 2 wires of the dash light go to zero and extinguish the light.

I just assumed that after the alt shop rewiried the unit, they must have inverted something internally. In your case if you didn't have the symptom previously and it came on suddenly, it may be worth looking into

 

Try this mob for an alternator if you have problems sourcing one, they had an 80 amp unit on the shelf for my XJ6 when I upgraded.
They should be able to do 110 amp for you. I can shoot over or call them and make enquiries if you like while you are away working, they are only 15 minutes from here.

Baxters Brisbane

 

Cheers Grant! I think you must know the in's and out's of the XJS like the back of your hand. Now did you rattle that all from the top of your head or did you look it up?..cause if that is straight from memory....wow....I'm really impressed...ha ha ha

Cheers Clarke.

Mate that is really very kind of you. I was thinking of ripping it out first before I ordered just incase I come across something else you know what I mean? I dont suppose I would be lucky enough to find a bad connection or something like that but I guess you never know.

I am going to try and order off Grant's contact as he may have the air pump idler as well but definately good to know of a connection close by. I will keep Baxter's in mind.

cheers again

Thanks also Warlock for the input

 

I just completed this upgrade. Well worth doing. Got my alt off eBay, a local starter/alternator shop found a pulley that matched pretty closely to the original one and fitted it for free. Picked up a thru bolt from Home Depot. It appears that some of the Lucas alternators had 17mm shafts which would mean that with the help of an impact you could simply swap the pulleys yourself, but others (Like mine) has 16mm shafts. Some of the brackets are also longer than others and require a few mm of grinding before they will support the upgraded alternator. A load dump module is also a very useful investment. I would personally recommend that you replace the belts as well while you're in there, mine seemed fine, but were not up to the task presented by the new alternator and snapped shortly after the installation was complete. Had to go back in and change them, which was a beast of a job. 500 miles later and still going strong. The tensioner also needed a lot of adjustment to fit the new unit as well. Shouldn't be too bad if you can get the front end in the air, it was a PIA for me because my jack failed and so I was slithering under the car to get to it. Thank god I'm scrawny. As far as reinstallation goes, I found it easiest to join the bracket and alternator outside the car and then hang it but the two upper bolts first, then slide underneath and use an open ended wrench to tighten the lower ones.

 

[QUOTE=paulyling;1353087]Cheers Grant! I think you must know the in's and out's of the XJS like the back of your hand. Now did you rattle that all from the top of your head or did you look it up?..cause if that is straight from memory....wow....I'm really impressed...ha ha ha

MEMORY Paul. You "youngens" got some catching up to do.

Amps is easy, total the Watts, divide by the applied Volts = Amps. That I remember from Year 10 High School, DAMN.

I have rebuilt so many of these over the years from engine fires it has become almost boring.

Then the 100% dismantle of mine, I was bored and had a company car, and then to rebuild it the way I wanted it, mainly the wiring.

Thats why I did the Rover, something different.

I am slowly writing it all in Word Doco's as I get to it, but me and keyboards are not the best of pals.

 

Ok...

Finally back on this project. Currently at work but will be ordering the parts over the phone in a few days time and getting it ready to make a start when I get home.

Been reading back through the threads and also Grants How to Guide.

After revising it I have a question:

Is it still easy enough to do without taking off the radiator hose and thermostat?

I just noticed in Grant's how to guide it mentions to lift the Alternator out and around them :

What are people's experience on this one? If possible I'd rather leave it all in place so I don't have to top her up and re-bleed her afterwards is all.

Thanks in advance guys.

 

Hi Paul
Until I got organised, thanks to Grant, with a 115 amp job, I had much experience of removing duff/underperforming alts. Apart from removing the airbox cover, nothing else needs to be removed apart from the alt fixings and belt themselves. It can then be pulled out upwards.

Your new alt may have larger diameter "hinge" bolt holes on which it swivels as you tension the belt. If so, the alt bracket bolted to the engine needs to be removed so you can drill out the holes for the hinge bolt, a new one of which to the correct alt hole size you will also need to source.
Nothing else needs removing to do this. you will never regret making the change!
Greg

 

Blah Blah Blah. Paul, I haven't read the thread, but my advice is this; drive it with your foot down. Solves all my problems!!!!

 

Cheers Greg!
Lol Flint!

Well...it seems sourcing the ALT is going to be the first obstacle as I rang Phil in Melbourne and he had no 110Amp or 90Amp alternators. And no not the idler arm wither. He was real helpful though and gave me a number in Townsville. Rang the bloke and he is gonna email me back if he can get one.

So....if I cant get one....do I try and hunt for a 90Amp or do I try and get the existing 75Amp repaired?

What worries me though is the only reason I am changing this out is because of the Thunderbolt symbol up on my dash. I am putting alot of trust in that little lamp as she was still running ok (seemingly) before.

Maybe I should just remove the lamp ha ha ha!

 

Paul, this guy is worth a phone call.

AJG Spares | New and Used Car Parts for Jeep, Jaguar, Land Rover and Range Rover models

try Baxters as well.

Baxters Brisbane

 

HA, removing the buld is easier, and works for me.

If the DVM at the battery is showing good volts at loaded condition, the bulb out for now tricks the brain.