I think that is the air temperature sensor.

 

Probably.
I'll go snap a pick of it right quick, as I am now home. But yes, It's probably the air temp sensor now that you say that... Be back in a few minutes.

 

 

I did try to start her when I went to take that picture. Very rough idle again. I am thinking it has to do with the coolant level. It ran fine yesterday. I can see coolant at the main coolant fill but I feel no coolant in either of the top hoses upon squeezing them. It did leak a little coolant under the main pulley though when I looked under it. It still has some in it, just not enough to circulate anymore. Has to be the issue. Just to check the coolant temp sensor, I unplugged it while it was idling very rough, and the idle went to normal and then started speeding up and slowing down, but still smooth. Plugged it back in, and it started fallin on its face again.

 

As for the water pump leaking. I believe that's what is leaking... It pushes the water around as far as I know of because I can see the coolant being pushed around in the main coolant spout. I could get away with just a new water pump gasket set probably?

 

Yes, air temp sensor. It's a 'trimming' sensor to slightly change the mixture. Unplugging it richens the mixture by....I dunno...maybe 5% ?


Cheers
DD

 

What about my previous picture Doug? The one on page 2 with the 2 wires that connect to one another.

Thanks for lookin.

 

I'm stumped on that...but a light bulb might go off at 2:00 AM ! Maybe later I'll find time to pour over the diagrams.


Cheers
DD

 

Right on, thanks. It's weird how it kills the engine if I connect them.

 

It's going to be in the low 70's tomorrow so I will go out and do some lookin after I get back from having my window replaced, when it's warmer out.


What do you think about the water pump leaking? It looks as if the pump circulates the coolant well. Just new gaskets would be fine, ya think? The loss of coolant is what I think keeps killin the engine. Other than that, My steering wheel can be pulled in and out and it doesn't look like there is a lock for the telescoping adjustment. That and there is a intermittent slight gind noise from the right rear that happened after I put more dot 4 in the brake reservoir. The reservoir was almost empty. I will need to bleed the brakes.

 

I think it is more likely that the pump leak is through the spindle bearing, rather than the gasket. In your situation, I would remove the rad, clean out all the fins and the rubbish between the two rad stacks, then remove the pump and put in a rebuilt one. At the same time you can change the hoses, the bottom hoses is almost certain to be on its last legs, and the thermostats. All much easier with the rad out.


The steering wheel in-out adjuster lock is on the column behind the wheel. It is a large black finger-grip indented black ring. Turn one way it to lock the wheel in the position you want, the other way to loosen the adjuster.


The grind noise is probably a bit of pad backing plate rubbing against the disc, or something like that. Axle out, fix the whole thing, new discs, calipers pads, radius arms, springs and shockers if they are worn out, full grease-up, check lower wishbone for play in its fulcrum bearings - nothing else for it !
Greg

 

Wow, that was a clean looking car in the pics. Then there the litany of issues, with possible multiple stacked faults making diagnosis a nightmare. Like the wise men here (Doug, Grant, Greg, et. al.) always say, overhauling and renewing sensors, vacuum and fuel lines, hoses, and FI wiring is really the right way to do this, else its shooting in the dark hoping to get lucky.

Since it was a non/poorly running car when you bought it, I trust you'll come out ahead when you do catch up on deferred maintenance, Sounds like you're making good progress

Greg, I observe you always recommend changing out the thermostats. I didn't think this was an age or mileage affected wear item, or am I overlooking something?

 

Yeah, the car literally only has 57,000 miles on it. The previous owner traded his previous car for the Jag. He says he probably only put 600 miles on it total after he got it. He would start it now and then bit he says the last 3 years he has let it sit in a climate controlled garage. This past year he moved it outside because he needed the garage space. This is what he's told me. Seems pretty legit. From sitting in the sun and unprotected from the elements, the interior still looks pretty good other than stale leather that just needs to be moisturized and only a few stitches that have popped. That and the sections of fake wood on the dash that are cracked. The clear coat on the outside is peeling on the hood, and the rear window flex-seal is cracked, but not on the inside. Over all I think I got one hell of a deal provided that the car didn't run when I got it, and "think" I now know that it's just the water pump leaking and not letting the coolant temp sensor detect anything. I found a new water pump on amazon for 177 US. The cheapest I have found other than ebay with one for 155 US. I just don't like ebay :-( So if anyone knows where I can get one cheaper, feel free to chime in. lol. Oh yeah, and the brakes issue. But I think I just need to bleed them. They will stop the car, just only when it is all the way to the floor.

 

Yeah I Figured that's what that ring grip was for but, I do believe it is seized up. I can't move it in either direction. I'll try a pipe strap to see if I can break it loose or something. Just not worried about that right now lol. Bigger fish to fry. :-P

Just one of the issues lol

 

Grant says to change them regularly eg every 5 years. So that is why I repeated the advice. In my case, I would replace them anyway on a car that has had no use and on which I am overhauling the cooling system. FWIW, my theory is that if you want a reliable car, it is pointless, as your post also mentioned it is too, to just replace the bit of the system that has actually failed. Far better to spend a touch more cash and effort and go through the system concerned. Otherwise, as you said, you just sequentially chase failures and have a car you never trust. Thereafter you have a baseline you know about and odd failures, if they happen at all, can be case by case fixed.
Greg

 

The strap should do it, the ring does get tight for some reason.
Greg

 

Take a very careful look at the discs, flexibles particularly the rear one to the cage and all the pads. This is a big heavy car and takes some stopping. At the very least it would be wise to change the flexibles, pads and flush the system with new fluid. The master cylinder seals will certainly be semi-shot at best, so resealing it, or a new one is a must. I think you do not have ABS on a 1982, but in case you do and you were not aware, there is a special technique to bleed the ABS system, make sure you follow it, or the pump can burn out. Good luck, great car.

 

Yeah I plan on replacing the pads and possibly the flex lines after inspecting them.

 

Just wondering about the easiest way to get to the water pump. Do I have to take the hood off, or will I be able to leave it on while doing this. It looks like I can leave it on but I just want advice on the easiest way to do it.

Also it was said, " thermostats," so there is more than one?

 

With coolant...

http://vid35.photobucket.com/albums/...%20Coolant.mp4


Without coolant...


http://vid35.photobucket.com/albums/...01_1320291.mp4

Only started it and ran it long enough for the video.