HOW TO: Cleaning the Wheel Speed Sensors FAQ
#201
05-28-2014, 04:07 PM
you could have a worn or loose hub bearing.
it can wobble the tone ring as the wheel is rotating therefore have missing data for the ABS module
it can wobble the tone ring as the wheel is rotating therefore have missing data for the ABS module
OK guys, another slight update to the problem (ABS light on and DSC warning with above scan code and warning)...
I replaced the "faulty" right wheel sensor, and now I get the following error message...
C1142 - Front right wheel speed sensor tone ring tooth missing fault
I can't see much (any) info on this...can anyone shed some light on this one please?
Car still drives, but after having cleared the ABS and DSC warnings, they re-appeared after about 10 seconds of driving.
Thanks! I'll get there in the end!!
Cheers,
Kevin
I replaced the "faulty" right wheel sensor, and now I get the following error message...
C1142 - Front right wheel speed sensor tone ring tooth missing fault
I can't see much (any) info on this...can anyone shed some light on this one please?
Car still drives, but after having cleared the ABS and DSC warnings, they re-appeared after about 10 seconds of driving.
Thanks! I'll get there in the end!!
Cheers,
Kevin
#202
05-28-2014, 04:21 PM
Veteran Member
Kevin,
Not familiar with that specific fault, but a dirty ring will cause faults as well. So will a missing tooth I imagine.
If you look at the wheel by the sensor, you will see a "toothed" wheel or ring. As this rotates, the sensor reads it for speed. This is a lay explanation of how it knows your wheel is spinning to fast compared to the other wheels or if it is locking up. If you are sure the sensor is good, try cleaning and inspecting this ring.
Remember, it could be the wiring to the sensor as well. It has been known to get breaks close to the sensor.
Not familiar with that specific fault, but a dirty ring will cause faults as well. So will a missing tooth I imagine.
If you look at the wheel by the sensor, you will see a "toothed" wheel or ring. As this rotates, the sensor reads it for speed. This is a lay explanation of how it knows your wheel is spinning to fast compared to the other wheels or if it is locking up. If you are sure the sensor is good, try cleaning and inspecting this ring.
Remember, it could be the wiring to the sensor as well. It has been known to get breaks close to the sensor.
#203
05-28-2014, 04:34 PM
Member
Thanks for the replies gents...looks like this is not quite as simple as I first thought!
I'll take a look over the next few days and see if I can glean any info from looking at/cleaning the ring...
Can the cable that connects to the wheel sensor be replaced easily?
Where does it connect to (not the sensor end)?
Thanks
I'll take a look over the next few days and see if I can glean any info from looking at/cleaning the ring...
Can the cable that connects to the wheel sensor be replaced easily?
Where does it connect to (not the sensor end)?
Thanks
#204
05-28-2014, 05:57 PM
Veteran Member
Find the frayed or broken wire, usually on the end closest to the sensor, cut and splice. Use solder and heat wrap to repair. It's a good idea to run heat wrap up to where it connects to the wheel sensor to avoid excessive movement and stress on the wire.
#205
05-29-2014, 07:32 AM
I fixed it thusly:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...re-fix-114732/
Marc
#206
08-15-2014, 05:44 PM
Junior Member
I was going to clean the sensors today, but ran out of time this evening so only managed to look at one (front left).
Unscrewed the bolt and unclipped the wire but the sensor is stuck pretty firm in its hole.
How flimsy are they? I don't want to prise it out with a screwdriver, or use a pari of grips if it's likely to just snap off.
Any suggestions?
Not sure of the state of the other 3... will have a look over the next few days.
Unscrewed the bolt and unclipped the wire but the sensor is stuck pretty firm in its hole.
How flimsy are they? I don't want to prise it out with a screwdriver, or use a pari of grips if it's likely to just snap off.
Any suggestions?
Not sure of the state of the other 3... will have a look over the next few days.
#207
08-16-2014, 06:31 AM
Veteran Member
#210
09-12-2014, 04:42 AM
#211
04-14-2015, 07:26 AM
No Speedo, ABS fail, Trac fail, Trac off, engine warning, rear LH sensor
95 X300 problem, but found this post. I've read through this, cleaned LHR sensor, measured OK (1.1K at connector under rear seat) checked, installed second sensor (measured 1.1K, and cleaned prior to install). Cleaned connector under rear seat. Still have all the faults and no speedo. This all started when a new rebuilt hub assembly was installed after a wheel bearing spun and destroyed the original hub. No prior problem. Not sure where to go from here? Hard to believe the ABS/TC box up front had anything to do with failure since it was the hub replacement that caused the problem??? I did not install hub, so I don't know how clean the sensor ring is in the hub? Can/should it be cleaned? Can that be done without removing? What about residue remaining in hub after cleaning? HELP
#212
04-14-2015, 06:20 PM
Veteran Member
It's quite possible that it's the connector itself. If that is the case, either the wire(s) got damaged during the hub fix, or the pins are just not making contact. You can try bending the pins ever so slightly, so that they make better contact inside the connector. This trick solved all my ABS / DSC problems in one fell swoop over a year ago. I would have checked the continuity of the wires first, but I didn't know where the harness went, so I couldn't find the other end of the wires.
#213
04-24-2015, 05:58 PM
So this is what I found. No problem with connector. I then removed the multi connector at the ABS/Trac control box. All 4 sensors measure the same 1.1K. I cleaned contacts on both the box and multi connector and reattached. Still no Speedo, abs fail...etc. So I thought I would verify that the LHR sensor was any good. I attached the RHR sensor to the LHR connector. Now the speedo works. So if I'm thinking correctly, that tells me the wiring from under the seat connector to the control box is good, and the control box itself is good (or I would not have SPEEDO). Does that sound correct? Is it still possible that even though the LHR sensor measures OK-at the under seat connector-it must be bad? Still could be the sensor wheel, but that was cleaned as part of the hub/bearing rebuilt assembly. HELP STILL REQUIRED!!!
#215
05-06-2015, 02:19 PM
Abs light after wheel bearing replacement
Hi all, I didn't want to open a new thread for something that sounds similar to the faults mentioned above.
I have just replaced the drivers side rear wheel bearing on my wifes 1997 XKR (right hand drive car) and I now have an ABS light on the dash. I did remove the sensor as part of the job and have replaced it exactly as it was.
Would a system reset clear the fault? There were no faults showing beforehand. Failing that, are there any obvious faults to look for?
Sorry if the answers are somewhere in this thread, I'm typing this on my phone outside at dusk and the screen is hard to navigate with the film of grease on my hands.
I have just replaced the drivers side rear wheel bearing on my wifes 1997 XKR (right hand drive car) and I now have an ABS light on the dash. I did remove the sensor as part of the job and have replaced it exactly as it was.
Would a system reset clear the fault? There were no faults showing beforehand. Failing that, are there any obvious faults to look for?
Sorry if the answers are somewhere in this thread, I'm typing this on my phone outside at dusk and the screen is hard to navigate with the film of grease on my hands.
#217
05-07-2015, 03:12 PM
I drove it in to work this morning and the ABS light disappeared as soon as I went over 5 mph. It has not returned, so I'm happy for now.
Thinking about it afterwards, it might have been to do with me switching the ignition to "acc" so I could roll down the window to reach the handbrake while I was working on it. Presumably it picked up that the ABS sensor was disconnected at that point and registered a fault, which then cleared as soon as a good signal was generated while driving. That's speculation but it makes sense to my untutored mind.
Thinking about it afterwards, it might have been to do with me switching the ignition to "acc" so I could roll down the window to reach the handbrake while I was working on it. Presumably it picked up that the ABS sensor was disconnected at that point and registered a fault, which then cleared as soon as a good signal was generated while driving. That's speculation but it makes sense to my untutored mind.
#218
05-09-2015, 01:06 PM
muchas gracias muy helpful
I was getting the ABS warning light and DSC warning message intermittently. Also, sometimes when I would apply the brakes I could hear the ABS system clicking away even though I was nowhere near the limit of traction. Usually it happened when I was almost stopped and only going 5 to 10 miles per hour. Info from this forum told me that it was most likely either a dirty wheel speed sensor or a bad wheel speed sensor, so I decided to clean them all to see if that would fix the problem. Here is a tutorial with pictures in case anyone else wants to try this.
Tools needed:
* 5/16ths inch socket with a ratchet (a 5/16ths inch wrench will work, too)
* Toothbrush
* Dish soap.
Also, you need to take the wheels off. The tools for that are already in the trunk.
Time:
It took me about 90 minutes. If you have an impact wrench and a floor jack it will go faster, but I was just using the jack and lug wrench from the trunk.
Skill Level:
Your daughter could do it.
I did the front wheels first. Just jack up one wheel and take it off. I figured out after I had both front wheels finished that it would have been a little easier if I had turned the wheels in the direction of the wheel sensor I was trying to clean. In other words, when working on the left front wheel, turn the steering wheel to the left. When working on the right one turn the wheel to the right. Make sure you only turn the wheels when both front wheels are on the ground. You don't want the car falling off of the jack.
So here's the tutorial...
Removing and Replacing the Front Sensor
Here is a picture of the front right wheel well. The sensor is on the other side of the rotor and you can't see it in this picture (That's why I said to turn the wheel to the right. It would be easier to access the sensor with the wheel turned to the side.
Here is a picture of the actual sensor. You can see the little cog thingy on the left side of the picture. The sensor bolts on right next to the cog thingy. As the little cogs move past the sensor the sensor detects them and sends a signal back to the ABS system so that it knows the speed of each wheel. In this picture I have already removed the one bolt that holds the sensor in place. It's a 5/16ths inch bolt and it is very easy to access and remove.
By the way... you can see the tire on the right side of the picture because when I was a kid my dad taught me to slide the wheel under the car so that if the car falls off the jack it will still be supported by the wheel. Jack stands will do the same thing. It's just a little safety measure.
And this picture is from an angle you will never see unless you have the ability to remove your head. This is from within the wheel well looking back. The wheel speed sensor is nice and clean because I have already removed it and cleaned it. Once again, the bolt which holds it in place is not installed in this picture. You can see the bright, shiny brass where the bolt will be inserted. In this picture you can also see the wire harness which plugs into the sensor. Make sure you check the harness for damage.
Removing and Replacing the Rear Sensor
The rear sensor is even easier to get to than the front sensor. After removing the wheel you can easily see the sensor by sticking your head in the wheel well and looking down.
The rear sensor looks exactly the same as the front, except as I mentioned above, it mounts on a housing that hides the little cog thingy. I think that's why the rear sensors were dirtier than the front sensors. The front sensors get washed off any time the car goes through a puddle, but the rear sensors are protected from the elements. grease and other crud builds up on them and it doesn't get rinsed off. Here's a picture of the sensor after it has been removed. You can see the cog thingy through the little hole.
Cleaning the sensor
Here's one of the dirty sensors I removed. This one was the dirtiest, but both of the rear sensors were much dirtier than the front sensors. I think that's because the front sensors are exposed, and the rear sensors are buried in some kind of housing which surrounds the rear axles.
To clean the sensor, simply take it to the kitchen sink and scrub it with a toothbrush and some dish soap. Try not to get any water into the electrical connector end of it. If you do get water in there, it's not the end of the world. Just tap the water out and then wait for it to dry before you reinstall it. You don't want to reinstall it wet because you might end up with some corrosion in the connector.
After about 45 seconds with the toothbrush your sensor will end up looking like this:
And that's it! It's really a simple "repair". I've driven my XK8 about 50 miles in city traffic since I cleaned them and the ABS/DSC warnings haven't activated, and I haven't had the faulty clicking from the ABS system. Prior to cleaning the sensors I would have expected it to happen at least 3 or 4 times. Only time will tell if this actually fixed it, but judging by the amount of gunk on the rear sensors, I think dirty sensors were the culprit.
UPDATE!!! I just made a video on how to do this. You don't even need to remove your front wheels! The pictures above are still helpful because they will help you locate the front wheel speed sensors with your hands. You can't really see them because they are hidden by the tire and the front fender. The rear sensor are easy to see once you get the wheels off.
Here is the video:
Jaguar XK8 Wheel Speed Sensors - YouTube
Tools needed:
* 5/16ths inch socket with a ratchet (a 5/16ths inch wrench will work, too)
* Toothbrush
* Dish soap.
Also, you need to take the wheels off. The tools for that are already in the trunk.
Time:
It took me about 90 minutes. If you have an impact wrench and a floor jack it will go faster, but I was just using the jack and lug wrench from the trunk.
Skill Level:
Your daughter could do it.
I did the front wheels first. Just jack up one wheel and take it off. I figured out after I had both front wheels finished that it would have been a little easier if I had turned the wheels in the direction of the wheel sensor I was trying to clean. In other words, when working on the left front wheel, turn the steering wheel to the left. When working on the right one turn the wheel to the right. Make sure you only turn the wheels when both front wheels are on the ground. You don't want the car falling off of the jack.
So here's the tutorial...
Removing and Replacing the Front Sensor
Here is a picture of the front right wheel well. The sensor is on the other side of the rotor and you can't see it in this picture (That's why I said to turn the wheel to the right. It would be easier to access the sensor with the wheel turned to the side.
Here is a picture of the actual sensor. You can see the little cog thingy on the left side of the picture. The sensor bolts on right next to the cog thingy. As the little cogs move past the sensor the sensor detects them and sends a signal back to the ABS system so that it knows the speed of each wheel. In this picture I have already removed the one bolt that holds the sensor in place. It's a 5/16ths inch bolt and it is very easy to access and remove.
By the way... you can see the tire on the right side of the picture because when I was a kid my dad taught me to slide the wheel under the car so that if the car falls off the jack it will still be supported by the wheel. Jack stands will do the same thing. It's just a little safety measure.
And this picture is from an angle you will never see unless you have the ability to remove your head. This is from within the wheel well looking back. The wheel speed sensor is nice and clean because I have already removed it and cleaned it. Once again, the bolt which holds it in place is not installed in this picture. You can see the bright, shiny brass where the bolt will be inserted. In this picture you can also see the wire harness which plugs into the sensor. Make sure you check the harness for damage.
Removing and Replacing the Rear Sensor
The rear sensor is even easier to get to than the front sensor. After removing the wheel you can easily see the sensor by sticking your head in the wheel well and looking down.
The rear sensor looks exactly the same as the front, except as I mentioned above, it mounts on a housing that hides the little cog thingy. I think that's why the rear sensors were dirtier than the front sensors. The front sensors get washed off any time the car goes through a puddle, but the rear sensors are protected from the elements. grease and other crud builds up on them and it doesn't get rinsed off. Here's a picture of the sensor after it has been removed. You can see the cog thingy through the little hole.
Cleaning the sensor
Here's one of the dirty sensors I removed. This one was the dirtiest, but both of the rear sensors were much dirtier than the front sensors. I think that's because the front sensors are exposed, and the rear sensors are buried in some kind of housing which surrounds the rear axles.
To clean the sensor, simply take it to the kitchen sink and scrub it with a toothbrush and some dish soap. Try not to get any water into the electrical connector end of it. If you do get water in there, it's not the end of the world. Just tap the water out and then wait for it to dry before you reinstall it. You don't want to reinstall it wet because you might end up with some corrosion in the connector.
After about 45 seconds with the toothbrush your sensor will end up looking like this:
And that's it! It's really a simple "repair". I've driven my XK8 about 50 miles in city traffic since I cleaned them and the ABS/DSC warnings haven't activated, and I haven't had the faulty clicking from the ABS system. Prior to cleaning the sensors I would have expected it to happen at least 3 or 4 times. Only time will tell if this actually fixed it, but judging by the amount of gunk on the rear sensors, I think dirty sensors were the culprit.
UPDATE!!! I just made a video on how to do this. You don't even need to remove your front wheels! The pictures above are still helpful because they will help you locate the front wheel speed sensors with your hands. You can't really see them because they are hidden by the tire and the front fender. The rear sensor are easy to see once you get the wheels off.
Here is the video:
Jaguar XK8 Wheel Speed Sensors - YouTube
#220
06-08-2015, 08:46 AM
Update...cleaned sensor wheel, no change. PLEASE MORE HELP NEEDED. Please read my above posts for ABS/TRAC/SPEEDO failure. I want to verify if the wiring from the rear seat to the ABS/TRAC box is good (speedo works when attached to right wheel sensor, but not when attached to left wheel senor, which is the stock set up). If it works THIS WAY (attached to right wheel sensor)THE WIRING TO THE ABS/TRAC BOX HAS TO BE GOOD-CORRECT?