Since I’m relatively new to my E-Type, I’m unsure if my oil gauge always read as it currently does or not and whether it’s “normal.” The gauge slowly raises upon starting the car and at idle (choke at full) registers shy of 60 lb’s. Once warm and driving, the needle maintains close to that position regardless of speed (comes down a tick at a stop light). I did note a day ago that the needle rested at 45 lb’s when I pulled into my garage after an hour drive.

I’m not well versed enough on oil pressure or the E-Type gauge. Thoughts? Normal? Sending unit going bad? Thank you!

 

That's exactly how my oil pressure looks . . . Series 2.

 

No worries...perfectly normal.


Alan
N.J.

 

Whew! Thanks guys! And once more I forgot (for the umpteenth time) to point out it’s an SII FHC, 1969, assuming everyone just naturally knows that...

 

Here's my modified S2 FHC

Reflections on a Series 1 bonnet.

Another view of the rear. I might end up painting the stainless panels; haven't made up my mind.

This is the profile that I desired for my Series 2.

The black crinkle paint on the covers have been polished. Chromed hight output alternator, triple CUs, cam valley painted Jag gold, electronic distributor, NGKs, battery cutoff,

 

On oil pressure guages, I went the mechanical route. The pressures on my engine had been dropping to the point where I was worried about a re-build. On advice, I had them tested on a professional capillary guage and they were fine. Fitted the SNG Barratt mechanical guage which gave identical (good) readings. I've had sensors go before which is alarming when your pressure drops to nearly zero! Hence the change.

 

In hearing from the guys above I’m comfortable my gauge is working but plan on having the engine pressures checked in the near future. I wouldn't be opposed to going to a mechanical gauge.

 

All 6 cylinder XK engines have notoriously low oil pressure under normal operating conditions 20 - 40 psi quite normal gauge readings from the electric sender unit and provided you can’t hear any untoward sounds from your engine at tick over or under driving power, no need to worry. If you connect up a wet pressure gauge you can check and see what your actual pressures are at different rpm. My engine has always shown low operating pressures so I changed the sender unit twice, the second time for a supposed updated sender unit but no different with either. But when connected to a wet pressure gauge shows much higher actual operating pressures. So don’t worry.

Hope this helps put your mind at rest

 

I share your feeling about looking at an oil pressure gauge that’s telling you that your engine is running very low oil pressure and have considered doing likewise and fitting a mechanical wet line gauge which will show actual (true) oil pressure. The only reason I’ve not done this is that I’ve heard of instances where the small diameter pipe connecting to the gauge behind the dash panel which hinges at the bottom can fracture because of work hardening caused by dropping the dash down to access a blown fuse or something else and when the engine is started oil at pressure then gets sprayed behind the dash panel unknown the the owner for a time before it is discovered because of the smell and oil dripping down from the dash panel. I was advised against going wet gauge by a couple of restoration companies who have witnessed this occurrence and had to clean up and revert back to the original unreliable electric sender!

 

Understand your concern, but the pipe to the guage is metal reinforced pipe, and the connection looks very strong. I can see how it could happen although I'd have thought it unlikely - i'll just check the connection now and again.

 

Malcolm, how long have you had your wet line gauge installed and did you do the installation yourself? If I could be confident that there wouldn’t be any possibility of pipe fracture I’d fit one too as my gauge has always shown low pressure courtesy of the electric sender.
Your thoughts would be appreciated,
Thanks
Ian

 

Hi guys,
I bought my 68 FHC 40 years ago with the wet oil pressure gauge already installed in the car. The nylon tube from the sensor to the gauge has never leaked. The gauge does show evidence of a minor internal oil leak, but it has not leaked behind the instrument cluster.
I have always wondered why someone would install a wet gauge, but it never bothered me enough to change to an original gauge. I am now in the process of restoring the car and was considering going back to an electrical oil pressure gauge. After reading the comments regarding the low pressure readings from the electrical gauge, I am now considering keeping a wet gauge set up.
Smonop, let us know what you decide to do and how you like the results.
Bill.

 

Bill

i see your car is a 68 FHC which is what mine is - a Series 1.5 in fact, what series is yours? Re the oil pressure gauge I’d stick with the wet line for sure - the original factory fit electrical sender don’t give accurate pressure readings - at on my car. From the comments on recent posts I think I’ll get a wet gauge from SNG Barratt and fit

ian

 

Hi Ian. I'm not much of a handyman so I had it fitted by the people who service my car. guage was from SNG. didn't cost a fortune. Had it for about 2 years now. Very pleased. It's nice to know the actual pressure rather than a guess from the electric sender!

 

As a follow up, I thought I'd send you a couple of pics of the oil line. The first one shows the metal braided line as it passes through the bulkhead. The nex


t shows the connection to the guage where it is rubber-shrouded. The braided line is unlikely to break I imagine, and the connection to the guage is very sturdy looking

 

1vorjagman,
My 68 FHC, like yours, is also part of the unofficial Series 1.5.
Bill.

 

dibbyandco,
Can you post a couple of photos of how you routed the gauge oil line in the engine bay?
Thanks,
Bill.

 

No problem. Pretty straightforward.
From the oil connection, it comes up the block in front of the front carb (photo 1)
It then runs along the frame under the air filter head (couple of cable ties) (photo 2)
It then emerges from under the filter to go through the bulkhead (photo 3)
From above, very little showing apart from the run to the bulkhead (photo 4)

Excuse the chips on the frame etc, must get them sorted!

 

Malcolm, many thanks for your reply and useful pics, also inspiring, I’m doing some winter work on the car right now prior to the better weather driving season and think I’ll see if I can get one and install it. I totally agree with your comments and am sure once installed I will feel a lot happier knowing all is well oil pressure wise.
ian

 

Bill I note you’ve had your car 40 years, during that time have you ever had to overhaul the front suspension and replace all the bushes. I ask as I’m contemplating this job and am researching procedures and what’s involved. So far it sounds a bit of an onerous task starting with the rebuild, torsion bar settings and measurements that need to be taken in order to get it set up correctly. Any thoughts or comments appreciated
Ian