2016 F-Type R Won't Start
#21
09-16-2015, 07:11 PM
Veteran Member
18 days at the dealer, car still isn't fixed and they don't know what the problem is. Dealer has been doing data dumps to the engineers at Jaguar and they haven't been able to offer a solution or sent them parts to try replacing.
I contacted Jaguar NA on Monday to start the buy back process.
I contacted Jaguar NA on Monday to start the buy back process.
#22
09-16-2015, 11:16 PM
#23
09-17-2015, 04:31 AM
Veteran Member
The buyback process starts a lot earlier than 30 days. You should have your dealer contact their AMM to start the process.
#24
09-17-2015, 08:46 AM
I told the dealer when I spoke to them on Monday I wanted to start the buy back process and I told Jaguar NA the same thing.
They told me a wheel was damaged and replaced, but who knows.
Last edited by JarodL; 09-17-2015 at 01:45 PM.
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Lucielle (10-15-2022)
#25
09-17-2015, 04:33 PM
Veteran Member
#26
09-18-2015, 08:40 PM
They think they identified the control module that was causing the issue. They tried one from another car on the lot and it supposedly resolved the issue. Now the bad news, it will be at least two more weeks before they can get a replacement from the UK and get it installed. They can't use the one from the lot as each module has the vin burned in it.
Really not sure if I want the car back at this point.
Really not sure if I want the car back at this point.
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Lucielle (10-15-2022)
#27
09-18-2015, 08:42 PM
Veteran Member
They think they identified the control module that was causing the issue. They tried one from another car on the lot and it supposedly resolved the issue. Now the bad news, it will be at least two more weeks before they can get a replacement from the UK and get it installed. They can't use the one from the lot as each module has the vin burned in it.
Really not sure if I want the car back at this point.
Really not sure if I want the car back at this point.
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Lucielle (10-15-2022)
#28
09-18-2015, 09:26 PM
Veteran Member
They think they identified the control module that was causing the issue. They tried one from another car on the lot and it supposedly resolved the issue. Now the bad news, it will be at least two more weeks before they can get a replacement from the UK and get it installed. They can't use the one from the lot as each module has the vin burned in it.
Really not sure if I want the car back at this point.
Really not sure if I want the car back at this point.
Last edited by Unhingd; 09-18-2015 at 09:29 PM.
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Lucielle (10-15-2022)
#30
09-19-2015, 11:42 AM
Veteran Member
They think they identified the control module that was causing the issue. They tried one from another car on the lot and it supposedly resolved the issue. Now the bad news, it will be at least two more weeks before they can get a replacement from the UK and get it installed. They can't use the one from the lot as each module has the vin burned in it.
Really not sure if I want the car back at this point.
Really not sure if I want the car back at this point.
Anyway, if thats all its is, a new module should cure it.
Actually, I was wondering if it was a poor ground causing the issue as I've had it happen on heavy equipment more than once and according to another post on this forum, it was a bad ground that caused a starting problem.
Regardless, it appears to be fixed.
Lawrence.
#33
09-30-2015, 08:55 PM
The arbitrator(s) may deduct a mileage offset*** for your use of
the vehicle prior to the first warranty repair attempt. When the
mileage offset applies, California law requires the use of the
following formula to calculate the amount of the deduction:
Purchase price x (multiplied by) [miles driven by buyer at first
repair attempt ÷ (divided by) 120,000] = (equals) use deduction.
http://www.dca.ca.gov/acp/pdf_files/englemn.pdf
the vehicle prior to the first warranty repair attempt. When the
mileage offset applies, California law requires the use of the
following formula to calculate the amount of the deduction:
Purchase price x (multiplied by) [miles driven by buyer at first
repair attempt ÷ (divided by) 120,000] = (equals) use deduction.
http://www.dca.ca.gov/acp/pdf_files/englemn.pdf
#34
10-04-2015, 10:48 PM
I mentioned this in another thread, but this seems to be a recurring problem for 2016 owners, so I thought I would start my own thread to document what's happening.
About two weeks after I picked up my car, the SOS System warning light started coming on and I started having issues starting the car. When I press the ignition button the dash flashes, the stereo briefly will turn on, but the car won't turn over. Sometimes it turns over on the 2nd or 3rd try and sometimes it takes 10 times and a few minutes to get started.
I scheduled my first appointment with my local dealer a couple of weeks ago and brought the car in. They didn't have a loaner available, so I waited for a few hours while they tried to determine what the issue was. They had the same issues getting the car started, but were unable to determine what the cause was and said they would need it for a couple of days.
Fast forward to this week, I dropped the car off first thing Monday and said I would leave it until they were able to fix it. Talked to the service manager yesterday afternoon and he still hadn't found the source of the problem. There is a regional traveling "master tech" who will be at the dealer today and hopefully he can help determine what the issue is. I mentioned the few things I saw on this forum (faulty battery, lose connections, etc.) to them, but they said they checked those.
I'm hoping they can identify the problem, but if they can't, he said they will try replacing a few parts they think can be causing the issue and if that doesn't work, JLR will find a replacement car for me.
I'll update this thread as I find out more from the dealer, as I am assuming more people are going to run into this issue. One month into my first Jaguar and I'm pretty disappointed. I always stayed away from Jaguar / Land Rover products due to their horrible reputation for reliability (especially electronics) and my experience so far is only driving home those fears.
About two weeks after I picked up my car, the SOS System warning light started coming on and I started having issues starting the car. When I press the ignition button the dash flashes, the stereo briefly will turn on, but the car won't turn over. Sometimes it turns over on the 2nd or 3rd try and sometimes it takes 10 times and a few minutes to get started.
I scheduled my first appointment with my local dealer a couple of weeks ago and brought the car in. They didn't have a loaner available, so I waited for a few hours while they tried to determine what the issue was. They had the same issues getting the car started, but were unable to determine what the cause was and said they would need it for a couple of days.
Fast forward to this week, I dropped the car off first thing Monday and said I would leave it until they were able to fix it. Talked to the service manager yesterday afternoon and he still hadn't found the source of the problem. There is a regional traveling "master tech" who will be at the dealer today and hopefully he can help determine what the issue is. I mentioned the few things I saw on this forum (faulty battery, lose connections, etc.) to them, but they said they checked those.
I'm hoping they can identify the problem, but if they can't, he said they will try replacing a few parts they think can be causing the issue and if that doesn't work, JLR will find a replacement car for me.
I'll update this thread as I find out more from the dealer, as I am assuming more people are going to run into this issue. One month into my first Jaguar and I'm pretty disappointed. I always stayed away from Jaguar / Land Rover products due to their horrible reputation for reliability (especially electronics) and my experience so far is only driving home those fears.
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Queen and Country (03-17-2016)
#36
05-07-2016, 12:21 PM
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2015 Jaguar F-Type wouldn't start
I mentioned this in another thread, but this seems to be a recurring problem for 2016 owners, so I thought I would start my own thread to document what's happening.
About two weeks after I picked up my car, the SOS System warning light started coming on and I started having issues starting the car. When I press the ignition button the dash flashes, the stereo briefly will turn on, but the car won't turn over. Sometimes it turns over on the 2nd or 3rd try and sometimes it takes 10 times and a few minutes to get started.
I scheduled my first appointment with my local dealer a couple of weeks ago and brought the car in. They didn't have a loaner available, so I waited for a few hours while they tried to determine what the issue was. They had the same issues getting the car started, but were unable to determine what the cause was and said they would need it for a couple of days.
Fast forward to this week, I dropped the car off first thing Monday and said I would leave it until they were able to fix it. Talked to the service manager yesterday afternoon and he still hadn't found the source of the problem. There is a regional traveling "master tech" who will be at the dealer today and hopefully he can help determine what the issue is. I mentioned the few things I saw on this forum (faulty battery, lose connections, etc.) to them, but they said they checked those.
I'm hoping they can identify the problem, but if they can't, he said they will try replacing a few parts they think can be causing the issue and if that doesn't work, JLR will find a replacement car for me.
I'll update this thread as I find out more from the dealer, as I am assuming more people are going to run into this issue. One month into my first Jaguar and I'm pretty disappointed. I always stayed away from Jaguar / Land Rover products due to their horrible reputation for reliability (especially electronics) and my experience so far is only driving home those fears.
About two weeks after I picked up my car, the SOS System warning light started coming on and I started having issues starting the car. When I press the ignition button the dash flashes, the stereo briefly will turn on, but the car won't turn over. Sometimes it turns over on the 2nd or 3rd try and sometimes it takes 10 times and a few minutes to get started.
I scheduled my first appointment with my local dealer a couple of weeks ago and brought the car in. They didn't have a loaner available, so I waited for a few hours while they tried to determine what the issue was. They had the same issues getting the car started, but were unable to determine what the cause was and said they would need it for a couple of days.
Fast forward to this week, I dropped the car off first thing Monday and said I would leave it until they were able to fix it. Talked to the service manager yesterday afternoon and he still hadn't found the source of the problem. There is a regional traveling "master tech" who will be at the dealer today and hopefully he can help determine what the issue is. I mentioned the few things I saw on this forum (faulty battery, lose connections, etc.) to them, but they said they checked those.
I'm hoping they can identify the problem, but if they can't, he said they will try replacing a few parts they think can be causing the issue and if that doesn't work, JLR will find a replacement car for me.
I'll update this thread as I find out more from the dealer, as I am assuming more people are going to run into this issue. One month into my first Jaguar and I'm pretty disappointed. I always stayed away from Jaguar / Land Rover products due to their horrible reputation for reliability (especially electronics) and my experience so far is only driving home those fears.
#37
07-13-2018, 03:06 AM
Veteran Member
The original problem described is very similar to my much older Jaguar. I'm not an F type owner but saw this thread come up..
Mine wouldn't turn over, the dial needles would swing around to their full travel and back again like a Hayabusa does when calibrating them.
The warning lights all flashed on and off quickly and randomly. There was lots of clicking and servo noises from the front of the car. It did this repeatedly even with removing the ignition key and trying again.
The problem was a faulty battery connection with the negative/earth lead. Looked OK, felt OK, until I disconnected it and it was badly cracked and fell apart the moment I tried to tighten it.
Might be the battery. Lots of very odd behavior reported with battery issues even new replacement batteries.
Sorry to hear about the OP problems with the dealer. Please don't think these problems are unique to the Jaguar brand, BMW are no different. I had monumental electrical problems with my E60 545 se petrol v8. The car hardly saw a spanner in 50k miles but the BMW IT technician got to know the car very well. Its a long list of issues.
The name of the game for all car brands is reducing warranty work. On any used car you never know how much of the allocated warranty budget for that specific car has already been used up. When the car has already incurred a certain amount of warranty work the dealers don't want to rectify anymore problems from my experience with BMW. That was a 2 year old car with 25k miles on it. A great car but the ongoing electronics problems made it unfit for purpose. I part ex'd it for something else after 2 years. The earlier pre-I drive cars don't have electronics issues.
I hope it works out well for the OP.
I don't trust other people to work on my cars or bikes.
Dealer technicians MEH
Mine wouldn't turn over, the dial needles would swing around to their full travel and back again like a Hayabusa does when calibrating them.
The warning lights all flashed on and off quickly and randomly. There was lots of clicking and servo noises from the front of the car. It did this repeatedly even with removing the ignition key and trying again.
The problem was a faulty battery connection with the negative/earth lead. Looked OK, felt OK, until I disconnected it and it was badly cracked and fell apart the moment I tried to tighten it.
Might be the battery. Lots of very odd behavior reported with battery issues even new replacement batteries.
Sorry to hear about the OP problems with the dealer. Please don't think these problems are unique to the Jaguar brand, BMW are no different. I had monumental electrical problems with my E60 545 se petrol v8. The car hardly saw a spanner in 50k miles but the BMW IT technician got to know the car very well. Its a long list of issues.
The name of the game for all car brands is reducing warranty work. On any used car you never know how much of the allocated warranty budget for that specific car has already been used up. When the car has already incurred a certain amount of warranty work the dealers don't want to rectify anymore problems from my experience with BMW. That was a 2 year old car with 25k miles on it. A great car but the ongoing electronics problems made it unfit for purpose. I part ex'd it for something else after 2 years. The earlier pre-I drive cars don't have electronics issues.
I hope it works out well for the OP.
I don't trust other people to work on my cars or bikes.
Dealer technicians MEH
#38
01-07-2019, 02:07 PM
Junior Member
#39
01-09-2019, 09:21 PM
Jag dealers don't understand the issue and cannot fix it, because the fundamental problem is the design choice of using an AGM battery within a nominal 12V system. AGM batteries need 0.2V additional volts, so they are never fully charged by the car's alternator. My Jags hover around 14.1V while running, AGM batteries require 14.8V float charging.
AGMs also require some amps before they will fully accept a charge, instead they will discharge low volt/low amp alternator current flow as heat.
The dealer can only replace your deterioted AGM battery with a new one, which will also quickly deteriorate.
You have two choices: keep the car on a mid-to-high end battery tender to mitigate the battery depletion effects from lots of short trips on low voltage. Or, buy a cheaper, traditional sealed lead acid battery to match the car's nominal 12V alternator.
Buying a lighter socket voltmeter (some USB chargers have a voltage readout) will help. If the car doesn't read at least 12.6V, given that AGM should read 12.8V in a fully charged state, before pressing the start button, you have a problem.
Last edited by JIMLIGHTA; 01-09-2019 at 09:32 PM.
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Daniel Faneuf (01-10-2019)
#40
01-09-2019, 10:28 PM
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Your battery has probably degraded to a borderline state. This will cause all sorts of seemingly unrelated faults and problems if allowed to degrade further.
Jag dealers don't understand the issue and cannot fix it, because the fundamental problem is the design choice of using an AGM battery within a nominal 12V system. AGM batteries need 0.2V additional volts, so they are never fully charged by the car's alternator. My Jags hover around 14.1V while running, AGM batteries require 14.8V float charging.
AGMs also require some amps before they will fully accept a charge, instead they will discharge low volt/low amp alternator current flow as heat.
The dealer can only replace your deterioted AGM battery with a new one, which will also quickly deteriorate.
You have two choices: keep the car on a mid-to-high end battery tender to mitigate the battery depletion effects from lots of short trips on low voltage. Or, buy a cheaper, traditional sealed lead acid battery to match the car's nominal 12V alternator.
Buying a lighter socket voltmeter (some USB chargers have a voltage readout) will help. If the car doesn't read at least 12.6V, given that AGM should read 12.8V in a fully charged state, before pressing the start button, you have a problem.
Jag dealers don't understand the issue and cannot fix it, because the fundamental problem is the design choice of using an AGM battery within a nominal 12V system. AGM batteries need 0.2V additional volts, so they are never fully charged by the car's alternator. My Jags hover around 14.1V while running, AGM batteries require 14.8V float charging.
AGMs also require some amps before they will fully accept a charge, instead they will discharge low volt/low amp alternator current flow as heat.
The dealer can only replace your deterioted AGM battery with a new one, which will also quickly deteriorate.
You have two choices: keep the car on a mid-to-high end battery tender to mitigate the battery depletion effects from lots of short trips on low voltage. Or, buy a cheaper, traditional sealed lead acid battery to match the car's nominal 12V alternator.
Buying a lighter socket voltmeter (some USB chargers have a voltage readout) will help. If the car doesn't read at least 12.6V, given that AGM should read 12.8V in a fully charged state, before pressing the start button, you have a problem.
Before I bought my F-Type I already had a reasonably powerful batter tender (15A) and one of those el cheapo eBay special voltage readers that plugs into the 12v accessory socket.
When I plug the voltage reader in with the engine off (whether or not the ignition is on makes no difference) and before hooking up the battery tender it always reads 12.2 to 12.3 volts. Then, when I start the engine, it jumps to around 14.6 volts.
However when I plug the reader in straight after a session with the battery tender (with the engine off) it reads 12.5 - 12.6 volts, but then it gradually drops back to 12.2 - 12.3 volts.
I have never had a single electrical or battery related problem (the battery is the original now 4.3 years old) so I have always put the low reading of 12.2 - 12.3 volts down to a slightly dodgy voltage reader, being as it is an eBay el cheapo. So a few months ago I bought a much more expensive reader which I connected to the charging posts under the hood, and lo and behold it gave the exact same readings as the el cheapo plug!
I'm now thinking that when the car is shut down and locked the BMS puts the electrical system in virtual hibernation, and even when I "wake it up" by turning the ignition on it is still pumping out only 12.2 - 12.3 volts until the car is started and the alternator joins the party.
Any experts want to chime in on this?
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Daniel Faneuf (01-10-2019)