Gonna lease a new R soon. Dealer found me a brand new 2017 R with parking camera option. He told me the MSRP was $108,000. He's gonna take my current base off my hands 4 months from the end of its lease.

He roughly quoted about $1270/month for 36 months 10K miles per year. If I build a new 2018 R it comes out to about $105,000 msrp. He quoted me roughly around $1500/1600 per month with the same parameters as above.

I love my 19" centrifuge wheels and there is no option for these on the R's. He told me I have to bump up to 20" but I think most of the wheels on the website are average looking. I'm not interested in aftermarket stuff, its only a 3 year lease so I dont care THAT much.

I'm leaning towards the 2017 because I really dont think the new updates to the 2018 model or worth the bump in monthly payments. Would anyone here go for the 2018? do you think the 18' updates are that much better? or take the 2017? I havent even started negotiations with him but he kept saying how much of a good deal the 2017 was...I think I can get him lower. What do you think?

 

I have a 2017 ( order ) car. From what i know the two major differences between these two model year cars are the headlights and an upgraded navigation unit. I've read the NAV isn't much better than the current model. Also, i like HID lights better than LED lights.
So ... you decide.
Others will chime in if there are other significant changed that I'm unaware of for the new 2018 car.

 

I bought my car so i kind of wished I had waited regardless of how small the changes are. Being that you will be handing the keys back to them just get the 17

 

This dealer is taking you to the cleaners, $1270/mo for 36 month on 2017 R is a highway robbery, it would be high even for SVR. Plus, you might have value in your existing lease - check buy-out vs. Black Book prices. For example, if your buy-out is 55K, but BB is 65K then you are leaving this money by turning it in and not asking for anything back.

 

Talk to a broker first, they might be able to save you a good bit of money!!!

 

Doesn't that depend on how much money down?

 

Nothing down aside from first month payment. I already know to put as less down as possible for leases.

 

Lease is still expensive for a 2017....trust me.

 

Do not, I repeat, DO NOT make the first month's payment - let the dealer do it.
Stay below $1000/mo WITH tax and 12,000mi/year.

 

If he puts ANY money down it's even more of a robbery!

 

you seem pretty confident with this. Do you have any data to prove this? Often times we hear of great deals but never really get the full scoop which makes them misleading. How can you justify those parameters you listed? Also, I think certain states charge more of a tax for leasing. I'm in PA. Also, the quoted numbers he gave me include a $50/month tire and wheel insurance policy.

I agree I think I can get him down but I doubt sub 1000/month from $1270.....but I will certainly try.

 

Only that this is EXACTLY the deal that I got on a 2016 F Type R last September
MSRP $110,500 or so
33 Months
12,000 miles per year
$999/mo (taxes included)
nothing at signing, plus dealership makes the first monthly payment (32 remaining)

By the virtue of the fact that this is what I am paying?

Fair enough. In San Diego sales tax is 8%. Hope that gives you a better idea.

$1800 over 36 months to fix the curb rash?
It costs around $100 per wheel to fix it normally. Just pay $400 or so before returning the car.
Also, what is "tire insurance"? Road hazard protection? It costs $35 per wheel@Discount Tire or a similar store.
This "insurance policy" sounds like a rip off, unless it includes new tires every time you need them - does it?

It's all about being able to negotiate. For me, they started with $5000 down and $1800/mo+tax. Well, they tried at least

 

+1 to everything you have said here.

OP - you should not be paying over $1000 per month for a lease on a 2017 R

 

I got a 2016 with 2K miles black pack/vision pack/heated windshield/20" wheels for 74K. Im first registered owner.

 

thanks for the clarification. You are right about the tire and wheel insurance, it is expensive and doesnt seem worth it. I used it twice for curb rash and once for a new tire (ran over a pothole and had a bubble on the side). Doing the math, it wasnt worth it. But suppose I damage two wheels and have to replace them? He told me those wheels go for $1500 apiece. It doesnt cover wear and tear. I guess it helps if you really run a long stream of banging up your wheels but I would hope I'm not that bad a driver...so yes i may drop this option.

To clarify the car i'm considering, its not a special order, but also not on his lot. Its in the "port." Cars on lots are notorious to be better deals because they need to move the inventory. But in my case, he had to contact the port or whatever it is, to have them send it over to his lot. Your deal seemed great, but was it off the lot? or a custom build?

 

I paid 1400 for 5 year wheel/tire coverage (also included door dings). Here on the East Coast it pays for itself. Within 2 years, it has already replaced one wheel, one tire, and refaced two wheels.

 

unless those wheel are coated in gold I can't see them costing 1500 each. Most likely slightly more for the entire set. I got my car from the port in February. I don't really think it raised the price of my deal much if at all.

 

Off the lot, of course. Otherwise I would not have gotten a black F Type (I wanted white or grey). Wait a bit, once the 2018s start rolling in the dealerships will have to get off their high cat () and start bargaining a lot harder. Or press them now, the choice is yours. Good luck and DO NOT pay more than I did!

 

Yeah thats what I was thinking. What was your deal? Anything similar to my situation?

 

Ah ok. Then yes i can understand the deal you got. I think it should be similar to my situation because I feel like once you spend the money to build it and its been built, they have to get rid of it, whether its in port or on the lot. Hopefully I can use this to my advantage.