300,000 plus miles easy on our Jaaaags
Cool video, it seems commonly accepted that the plastic pipes are good for 50K miles. Mine has only done 32K and keeping inspecting everything under the hood at least twice a month including coolant level.
I'll enquire my Jag specialist next spring to see if they can source and install the metal pipes.
I thought he would mention the rear diff oil as another fluid that needs replacing regularly.
I'll enquire my Jag specialist next spring to see if they can source and install the metal pipes.
I thought he would mention the rear diff oil as another fluid that needs replacing regularly.
Yes, please do it soon the rear will go with no warning ,the F-TYPE R ,i worked on the owner punched it then found out he was leaking and had it towed to my garage luckily ,i installed it and its been good for a year and a half, while i was there i replace everything including installing a sold coupler his car runs smooth and his engine just purrs
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Wow, feel sorry for you but I'm glad you kept the car albeit with a new engine.
It'd be interesting to know how the engine went and how the car's been with a new engine, where you had the job done, costs, etc if you don't mind sharing these details to help others in a similar situation.
It'd be interesting to know how the engine went and how the car's been with a new engine, where you had the job done, costs, etc if you don't mind sharing these details to help others in a similar situation.
People in the UK might enjoy this video
Last edited by WSHudds; Dec 21, 2024 at 04:53 AM.
Great stuff!
When it comes to engine failure reasons... I've also been pretty interested in the topic since I had to have an AJ126 replaced at around 33 000 miles in another Jag many years ago now. That was due to a manufacturing quality issue that many early AJ126s suffered from but apart from that I think that the vast majority of engine failures of the AJ126/AJ133 simply boils down to owner neglect and/or ignorance.
If one of these engines fail it's mostly due to the current owner or some past owner not paying attention or doing stupid sh*t with the car. IMHO things to do to avoid serious issues:
When it comes to engine failure reasons... I've also been pretty interested in the topic since I had to have an AJ126 replaced at around 33 000 miles in another Jag many years ago now. That was due to a manufacturing quality issue that many early AJ126s suffered from but apart from that I think that the vast majority of engine failures of the AJ126/AJ133 simply boils down to owner neglect and/or ignorance.
If one of these engines fail it's mostly due to the current owner or some past owner not paying attention or doing stupid sh*t with the car. IMHO things to do to avoid serious issues:
- always apply mechanical sympathy
- be aware of any early signs of coolant system or injector issues
- always let it warm up during 15 minutes before driving it hard
- use proper gas and not some random cheap low octane junk
- drive it properly: not only short drives but also give it a longer run and an Italian tune-up at least every now and then
- use an injector cleaner every now and then
- garage it if you can
- carry out maintenance at least as frequently as prescribed by Jaguar
Very good list and recommendations.
I would add to forget Jaguar's ultra long oil change intervals. I use a 6K-8K miles change interval.
Next is shut down the car at any indication of over heating and DO NOT drive it again until it has been serviced. We have had many people who just keep driving to the next exit or the classic I just drove slowly home since it was only a couple of miles. These all alloy engines just can't tolerate over heating like our old cast iron V-8's. Those were very tough.
Plus PLEASE check the oil and coolant regularly!
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I would add to forget Jaguar's ultra long oil change intervals. I use a 6K-8K miles change interval.
Next is shut down the car at any indication of over heating and DO NOT drive it again until it has been serviced. We have had many people who just keep driving to the next exit or the classic I just drove slowly home since it was only a couple of miles. These all alloy engines just can't tolerate over heating like our old cast iron V-8's. Those were very tough.
Plus PLEASE check the oil and coolant regularly!
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.
Very good list and recommendations.
I would add to forget Jaguar's ultra long oil change intervals. I use a 6K-8K miles change interval.
Next is shut down the car at any indication of over heating and DO NOT drive it again until it has been serviced. We have had many people who just keep driving to the next exit or the classic I just drove slowly home since it was only a couple of miles. These all alloy engines just can't tolerate over heating like our old cast iron V-8's. Those were very tough.
Plus PLEASE check the oil and coolant regularly!
.
.
.
I would add to forget Jaguar's ultra long oil change intervals. I use a 6K-8K miles change interval.
Next is shut down the car at any indication of over heating and DO NOT drive it again until it has been serviced. We have had many people who just keep driving to the next exit or the classic I just drove slowly home since it was only a couple of miles. These all alloy engines just can't tolerate over heating like our old cast iron V-8's. Those were very tough.
Plus PLEASE check the oil and coolant regularly!
.
.
.
Amen thank God we're drilling this to new Jaguar owners, it boils down to Oil intervals and coolant pipes, you have to put top tier gas in ,what happens is bad gas destroys injectors ,the crap burns the coil inside, I went to a injector cleaning lab in Derby Connecticut back in the day and they showed me the whole operation very interesting I learnt a lot, short journeys are not good, just follow simple maintenance guide lines and your good ,a lot of you members already get the picture ,i run my hard sometimes with a Stage 2 tune with no ill effects, just reliable
Last edited by dennis black; Dec 24, 2024 at 07:22 PM.
One thing to add to these lists for Type R and SVR owners with the eDiff: regularly inspect and clean out your differential vent plug.
Thanks to some great work by @HermanWiegman here, a leading cause of eDiff failures has been traced to clogged vent ports. Basically, when the vent gets clogged it leads to pressurization as the diff heats up. This leads to a blowout of the mainshaft or half shaft seal, causing fluid loss. If you're lucky, you discover this early and replace the seal. If you're unlucky, the fluid loss is sufficient to trash the diff. Prevention is relatively simple: clean the diff vent. It's on top of the diff, and can be reached from underneath with a bit of contortion, or you can cut a hole in the trunk for easy inspection/cleaning. And of course, you should be doing regular diff fluid changes, every 30-50k miles depending on use. FYI.
Thanks to some great work by @HermanWiegman here, a leading cause of eDiff failures has been traced to clogged vent ports. Basically, when the vent gets clogged it leads to pressurization as the diff heats up. This leads to a blowout of the mainshaft or half shaft seal, causing fluid loss. If you're lucky, you discover this early and replace the seal. If you're unlucky, the fluid loss is sufficient to trash the diff. Prevention is relatively simple: clean the diff vent. It's on top of the diff, and can be reached from underneath with a bit of contortion, or you can cut a hole in the trunk for easy inspection/cleaning. And of course, you should be doing regular diff fluid changes, every 30-50k miles depending on use. FYI.
Last edited by diablo2112; Dec 25, 2024 at 06:58 PM.
Great posts/thread.
Do the pipes all - there is no known "good for" data afaik that is scientific, it is probably a guess - and if you overheat you risk the engine....cheap fix and once and done sort of thing. Doing fluids, filters, plugs and driving with some semblance of mechanical sympathy is the best bet.
I did the pipes, the s/c coupler and fluid and plugs all at once to save on labor (to not repeat the s/c removal...).
The rest is just it being a car...they are machines and some have issues - some of it is realizing that there is charm in patina too.
Happy Holidays all.
Do the pipes all - there is no known "good for" data afaik that is scientific, it is probably a guess - and if you overheat you risk the engine....cheap fix and once and done sort of thing. Doing fluids, filters, plugs and driving with some semblance of mechanical sympathy is the best bet.
I did the pipes, the s/c coupler and fluid and plugs all at once to save on labor (to not repeat the s/c removal...).
The rest is just it being a car...they are machines and some have issues - some of it is realizing that there is charm in patina too.
Happy Holidays all.
Good info on the rear diff vent but how do you clean it or check if it's open? Can you run a wire or somthing down the vent?
I just changed my diff fluid for the second time and it's still all clean and dry but I did not check the vent.
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I just changed my diff fluid for the second time and it's still all clean and dry but I did not check the vent.
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