Acceleration and braking question
Hi! Just bought a used 2017MY F-Type S with around 10k miles on it
Although service guys who examined the car told me it was in almost perfect condition, after I made around 1k miles to my city, I noticed two things:
1) The brakes are really weak. Can it be related to brake pads which are originals, non-ceramic, but about to end soon as per service guys (the brake sensors are alive) ? Or it's just a common thing on Jaguars I need to accept? It really annoys me after my Audi A5 B9 with smaller calipers but insanely good braking
2) In automatic mode, no matter normal or dynamic, if I push the accel pedal gently, the car acts lazy choosing a higher gear. I mean, it feels uncomfortable, non-flexible. And if I try to push it harder then, it roars, dropping some gears. But there's no possibility to start movement smoothly. Not adapted yet or I have to see my dealer?
Anybody experiences the same ?
Although service guys who examined the car told me it was in almost perfect condition, after I made around 1k miles to my city, I noticed two things:
1) The brakes are really weak. Can it be related to brake pads which are originals, non-ceramic, but about to end soon as per service guys (the brake sensors are alive) ? Or it's just a common thing on Jaguars I need to accept? It really annoys me after my Audi A5 B9 with smaller calipers but insanely good braking
2) In automatic mode, no matter normal or dynamic, if I push the accel pedal gently, the car acts lazy choosing a higher gear. I mean, it feels uncomfortable, non-flexible. And if I try to push it harder then, it roars, dropping some gears. But there's no possibility to start movement smoothly. Not adapted yet or I have to see my dealer?
Anybody experiences the same ?
Lol, also I decoded my VIN once again and found this:
HIGH PERF BRAKE PROGRAMME
So, it's the second braking level as far I understand, the first is just PERFORMANCE (355/326)
Yeah, indeed should stop better, otherwise I doubt "Performance" option would stop at all if mine were as designed.
HIGH PERF BRAKE PROGRAMME
So, it's the second braking level as far I understand, the first is just PERFORMANCE (355/326)
Yeah, indeed should stop better, otherwise I doubt "Performance" option would stop at all if mine were as designed.
It's possible, the brake pads need to be warmed up to grab. Try going to an open parking lot. Get the car up to about 40mph and slam on the brakes. Do that two more times in succession and see if the car stops quicker after the brakes warm up.
Tried that, no effect. I mean they are really bad all the time, my Hyundai Tiburon's were even better
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Could be several things, but it's going to be hard to troubleshoot over the internet. As mentioned earlier, the OEM brake setup is pretty strong. If the pads are not original pads, you could go back to OEM.
Lol, also I decoded my VIN once again and found this:
HIGH PERF BRAKE PROGRAMME
So, it's the second braking level as far I understand, the first is just PERFORMANCE (355/326)
Yeah, indeed should stop better, otherwise I doubt "Performance" option would stop at all if mine were as designed.
HIGH PERF BRAKE PROGRAMME
So, it's the second braking level as far I understand, the first is just PERFORMANCE (355/326)
Yeah, indeed should stop better, otherwise I doubt "Performance" option would stop at all if mine were as designed.
Bleed brakes, change pads to OEM or Yellow pads (both are dusty) and make sure your tires in adequate condition you should get back to how it ought to work.
This leaves air in the system (---> bleed), low quality or glazed pads (---> new pads), or bald tires (---> check tires).
The car is too new for mechanical failure, so it is safe to assume that master operates correctly, that lines are not blocked, and that pistons in calipers are not binding... even if brakes were never serviced since new. The car is also recently purchased, this means safety inspection - so we can eliminate active leak or 100% used up pads with metal on metal, even if the original poster is deaf and blind to dash warnings.
This leaves air in the system (---> bleed), low quality or glazed pads (---> new pads), or bald tires (---> check tires).
This leaves air in the system (---> bleed), low quality or glazed pads (---> new pads), or bald tires (---> check tires).
The car is too new for mechanical failure, so it is safe to assume that master operates correctly, that lines are not blocked, and that pistons in calipers are not binding... even if brakes were never serviced since new. The car is also recently purchased, this means safety inspection - so we can eliminate active leak or 100% used up pads with metal on metal, even if the original poster is deaf and blind to dash warnings.
This leaves air in the system (---> bleed), low quality or glazed pads (---> new pads), or bald tires (---> check tires).
This leaves air in the system (---> bleed), low quality or glazed pads (---> new pads), or bald tires (---> check tires).
My bet is either the pads are glazed or the pads were changed and not bed in properly (or maybe they are working as designed). However, without being there it's difficult to diagnose.
You mean I need to gain as much speed as I can and brake hard looking at the g-force?

Actually, not "as much speed as you can" (that might be scary!), but you certainly want to be moving reasonably quickly.
Never occurred to me to try measuring it this way. However, I don't think it is overly accurate. It tells me that my max lateral on track is 1.2G. That is too good to be true... even on fully warmed up MP4S.
I don't believe there is a mechanical issue, but even then it's still difficult to troubleshoot over the internet. When someone says they are braking "hard", the definition of "hard" will be different. For example (and extreme example), when I'm at the track, I tell my students to brake hard. They never do until I take them for a ride and they feel how hard I'm braking then say "Oh, you mean hard" as if that wasn't the word I used earlier.
My bet is either the pads are glazed or the pads were changed and not bed in properly (or maybe they are working as designed). However, without being there it's difficult to diagnose.
My bet is either the pads are glazed or the pads were changed and not bed in properly (or maybe they are working as designed). However, without being there it's difficult to diagnose.
There's also that pedal graph feature (instantaneous measure via bars and force over time plot). Could be handy for quantifying "hard". Provided you're in an f type, of course.
You don’t need to stare at it. It will store the maximum values until the next reset.
Totally normal to get a "peak" of 1.2 on those tires. I have done that in various cars many many times....
As for sustained G, probably in the .9's. That is the only issue with the in-car g force measuring, they usually don't show the transition from peak to sustained so you can actually use the information!
As for sustained G, probably in the .9's. That is the only issue with the in-car g force measuring, they usually don't show the transition from peak to sustained so you can actually use the information!








