F-Type ( X152 ) 2014 - Onwards

Acceleration and braking question

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Old Aug 29, 2019 | 10:30 AM
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Default Acceleration and braking question

Hi! Just bought a used 2017MY F-Type S with around 10k miles on it
Although service guys who examined the car told me it was in almost perfect condition, after I made around 1k miles to my city, I noticed two things:

1) The brakes are really weak. Can it be related to brake pads which are originals, non-ceramic, but about to end soon as per service guys (the brake sensors are alive) ? Or it's just a common thing on Jaguars I need to accept? It really annoys me after my Audi A5 B9 with smaller calipers but insanely good braking
2) In automatic mode, no matter normal or dynamic, if I push the accel pedal gently, the car acts lazy choosing a higher gear. I mean, it feels uncomfortable, non-flexible. And if I try to push it harder then, it roars, dropping some gears. But there's no possibility to start movement smoothly. Not adapted yet or I have to see my dealer?

Anybody experiences the same ?
 
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Old Aug 29, 2019 | 10:36 AM
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#1 is not normal, F-type brakes in OEM setup are superb (but very dusty). If PO messed up with this and installed no-dust ceramic pads, you probably want to undo it.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2019 | 10:43 AM
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#2 is normal while it learns your driving style. What you've got is both a ***** cat and roaring snarling beast, depending on throttle position.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2019 | 11:19 AM
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Are they dusty all the way while they last? Seems you're right about PO putting shitty cheap pads, gonna change them asap
 
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Old Aug 29, 2019 | 11:32 AM
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Lol, also I decoded my VIN once again and found this:
HIGH PERF BRAKE PROGRAMME

So, it's the second braking level as far I understand, the first is just PERFORMANCE (355/326)
Yeah, indeed should stop better, otherwise I doubt "Performance" option would stop at all if mine were as designed.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2019 | 12:04 PM
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It's possible, the brake pads need to be warmed up to grab. Try going to an open parking lot. Get the car up to about 40mph and slam on the brakes. Do that two more times in succession and see if the car stops quicker after the brakes warm up.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2019 | 12:09 PM
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Tried that, no effect. I mean they are really bad all the time, my Hyundai Tiburon's were even better
 
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Old Aug 29, 2019 | 12:21 PM
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Could be several things, but it's going to be hard to troubleshoot over the internet. As mentioned earlier, the OEM brake setup is pretty strong. If the pads are not original pads, you could go back to OEM.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2019 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Nznoonee
Lol, also I decoded my VIN once again and found this:
HIGH PERF BRAKE PROGRAMME

So, it's the second braking level as far I understand, the first is just PERFORMANCE (355/326)
Yeah, indeed should stop better, otherwise I doubt "Performance" option would stop at all if mine were as designed.
I have this package on my car, and stopping power is superb when combined with properly inflated MP4S tires.

Bleed brakes, change pads to OEM or Yellow pads (both are dusty) and make sure your tires in adequate condition you should get back to how it ought to work.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2019 | 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Mahjik
Could be several things, but it's going to be hard to troubleshoot over the internet.
The car is too new for mechanical failure, so it is safe to assume that master operates correctly, that lines are not blocked, and that pistons in calipers are not binding... even if brakes were never serviced since new. The car is also recently purchased, this means safety inspection - so we can eliminate active leak or 100% used up pads with metal on metal, even if the original poster is deaf and blind to dash warnings.

This leaves air in the system (---> bleed), low quality or glazed pads (---> new pads), or bald tires (---> check tires).
 
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Old Aug 29, 2019 | 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by SinF
The car is too new for mechanical failure, so it is safe to assume that master operates correctly, that lines are not blocked, and that pistons in calipers are not binding... even if brakes were never serviced since new. The car is also recently purchased, this means safety inspection - so we can eliminate active leak or 100% used up pads with metal on metal, even if the original poster is deaf and blind to dash warnings.

This leaves air in the system (---> bleed), low quality or glazed pads (---> new pads), or bald tires (---> check tires).
Yeah, thanks, so it's either air or bad pads! Thank you a lot, realizing that this is some degradation rather than F-Type braking quality makes me really happy!
 
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Old Aug 29, 2019 | 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by SinF
The car is too new for mechanical failure, so it is safe to assume that master operates correctly, that lines are not blocked, and that pistons in calipers are not binding... even if brakes were never serviced since new. The car is also recently purchased, this means safety inspection - so we can eliminate active leak or 100% used up pads with metal on metal, even if the original poster is deaf and blind to dash warnings.

This leaves air in the system (---> bleed), low quality or glazed pads (---> new pads), or bald tires (---> check tires).
I don't believe there is a mechanical issue, but even then it's still difficult to troubleshoot over the internet. When someone says they are braking "hard", the definition of "hard" will be different. For example (and extreme example), when I'm at the track, I tell my students to brake hard. They never do until I take them for a ride and they feel how hard I'm braking then say "Oh, you mean hard" as if that wasn't the word I used earlier.

My bet is either the pads are glazed or the pads were changed and not bed in properly (or maybe they are working as designed). However, without being there it's difficult to diagnose.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2019 | 02:45 PM
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If you select the Dynamic screen you can use the g-force facility to measure how much stopping power you've got. Best I've got from mine so far is about 0.7g.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2019 | 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by scm
If you select the Dynamic screen you can use the g-force facility to measure how much stopping power you've got. Best I've got from mine so far is about 0.7g.
You mean I need to gain as much speed as I can and brake hard looking at the g-force?
 
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Old Aug 29, 2019 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Nznoonee
You mean I need to gain as much speed as I can and brake hard looking at the g-force?
Yep! You have to have fun in the F-Type! Do it somewhere quiet and deserted, though.
Actually, not "as much speed as you can" (that might be scary!), but you certainly want to be moving reasonably quickly.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2019 | 03:07 PM
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Btw, I have 52k miles on my original pads, and they still have some life left. Generally, I’m a light braker, except for the 2 track days.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2019 | 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by scm
If you select the Dynamic screen you can use the g-force facility to measure how much stopping power you've got. Best I've got from mine so far is about 0.7g.
Never occurred to me to try measuring it this way. However, I don't think it is overly accurate. It tells me that my max lateral on track is 1.2G. That is too good to be true... even on fully warmed up MP4S.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2019 | 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Mahjik
I don't believe there is a mechanical issue, but even then it's still difficult to troubleshoot over the internet. When someone says they are braking "hard", the definition of "hard" will be different. For example (and extreme example), when I'm at the track, I tell my students to brake hard. They never do until I take them for a ride and they feel how hard I'm braking then say "Oh, you mean hard" as if that wasn't the word I used earlier.

My bet is either the pads are glazed or the pads were changed and not bed in properly (or maybe they are working as designed). However, without being there it's difficult to diagnose.

There's also that pedal graph feature (instantaneous measure via bars and force over time plot). Could be handy for quantifying "hard". Provided you're in an f type, of course.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2019 | 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Nznoonee
You mean I need to gain as much speed as I can and brake hard looking at the g-force?
You don’t need to stare at it. It will store the maximum values until the next reset.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2019 | 09:04 AM
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Totally normal to get a "peak" of 1.2 on those tires. I have done that in various cars many many times....

As for sustained G, probably in the .9's. That is the only issue with the in-car g force measuring, they usually don't show the transition from peak to sustained so you can actually use the information!
 
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