F-Type ( X152 ) 2014 - Onwards

Active exhaust valves fuses F43 F15

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Old Aug 26, 2021 | 10:55 AM
  #41  
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Here's a doc on the original active exhaust with electric vacuum pump; newer models use engine vacuum...
https://www.dropbox.com/s/szc3vze5ol...haust.pdf?dl=0

Since I have squeaky exhaust valves, I can hear what's going on a lower speeds. At idle, the valves flip open and closed a fair amount. Step on it and they close until perhaps 3k RPM, then they start to open and stay open as long as your foot is down. I have active exhaust (standard on the S), but not switchable active exhaust.

I installed the wireless relay to defeat F43 due to squeaky valves and the noisy vacuum pump. But with the valves open, I get a lot of exhaust noise at lower RPMs, which wasn't possible for me before without switchable active exhaust. I believe at least one of my valves sticks open sometimes; I get a bit of extra low-RPM noise sometimes with F43 in place.

With the valves open (F43 defeated) and the roof up, I have pretty bad drone at highway speeds, which is why I don't just leave the fuse out.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2021 | 11:15 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by DJS
... with the valves open, I get a lot of exhaust noise at lower RPMs, which wasn't possible for me before without switchable active exhaust.
Not even in dynamic mode?
 
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Old Aug 26, 2021 | 11:42 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by DJS
Here's a doc on the original active exhaust with electric vacuum pump; newer models use engine vacuum...
https://www.dropbox.com/s/szc3vze5ol...haust.pdf?dl=0

Since I have squeaky exhaust valves, I can hear what's going on a lower speeds. At idle, the valves flip open and closed a fair amount. Step on it and they close until perhaps 3k RPM, then they start to open and stay open as long as your foot is down. I have active exhaust (standard on the S), but not switchable active exhaust.

I installed the wireless relay to defeat F43 due to squeaky valves and the noisy vacuum pump. But with the valves open, I get a lot of exhaust noise at lower RPMs, which wasn't possible for me before without switchable active exhaust. I believe at least one of my valves sticks open sometimes; I get a bit of extra low-RPM noise sometimes with F43 in place.

With the valves open (F43 defeated) and the roof up, I have pretty bad drone at highway speeds, which is why I don't just leave the fuse out.
Did you use my design on the wireless setup?
 
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Old Aug 26, 2021 | 04:19 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by scm
Not even in dynamic mode?
Nope. It’s fairly quiet at low revs, and valves open progressively as revs build. So the exhaust doesn’t really erupt if you out your foot down from a standstill. But it does with F43 removed.

If I remember, I’ll try to record the difference.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2021 | 04:24 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Jag Bass
Did you use my design on the wireless setup?
No, a few years ago, someone here recommended
www.cccharger.co.uk

His website doesn’t mention the F-type version (just Aston & Ferrari), but that’s what I got.

It’s a little relay that installs in the fuse box with F43, and is controlled with a key fob. It’s a latching relay, so it remembers its previous state when you start the car. The only hard part of the install was finding a good ground, nearby studs weren’t tied to ground.



 

Last edited by DJS; Aug 26, 2021 at 04:29 PM.
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Old Aug 26, 2021 | 04:38 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by DJS
No, a few years ago, someone here recommended
www.cccharger.co.uk

His website doesn’t mention the F-type version (just Aston & Ferrari), but that’s what I got.

It’s a little relay that installs in the fuse box with F43, and is controlled with a key fob. It’s a latching relay, so it remembers its previous state when you start the car. The only hard part of the install was finding a good ground, nearby studs weren’t tied to ground.


Cool, you probably can program the freq on you homelink as well if you wanted to.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2021 | 04:48 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by DJS
Nope. It’s fairly quiet at low revs, and valves open progressively as revs build. So the exhaust doesn’t really erupt if you out your foot down from a standstill.
That could be the difference between the operation between the early and later MYs, then? My MY18 is loud from tickover in dymanic (sic) mode.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2021 | 04:51 PM
  #48  
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So I'm guessing that if I pull fuse 43 on my 2016 v6 it will be fully open? Dynamic mode is slightly quieter... at times with the fuse in?
Pulling it out might get more crackles? I'm all for that!!!
 

Last edited by koolkat; Aug 26, 2021 at 04:53 PM.
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Old Aug 26, 2021 | 05:05 PM
  #49  
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Around 2016 was when they removed the electric vacuum pump and switched to engine vacuum. F43 only works if you have the electric pump, which is visible inboard and behind the left rear wheel. Mine is very buzzy, sounds like a heat shield buzzing. With the valves fluttering at idle, the pump comes on occasionally. Listening to squeaky valves and what sounds like a buzzing heat shield while sitting at a light with the top down is what drove me to get the relay. 4-year warranty was up before the valves got squeaky.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2021 | 05:07 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Jag Bass
Cool, you probably can program the freq on you homelink as well if you wanted to.
Neat idea, although I use all 3 buttons (1 for my Mom’s garage, which is very handy when visiting.)
 
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Old Aug 26, 2021 | 05:21 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by DJS
No, a few years ago, someone here recommended
www.cccharger.co.uk

His website doesn’t mention the F-type version (just Aston & Ferrari), but that’s what I got.

It’s a little relay that installs in the fuse box with F43, and is controlled with a key fob. It’s a latching relay, so it remembers its previous state when you start the car. The only hard part of the install was finding a good ground, nearby studs weren’t tied to ground.


This is exactly what I was looking for in a previous post! Thank you!
 
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Old Aug 26, 2021 | 05:30 PM
  #52  
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I must have engine vacuum, no pump behind rear wheel. So pulling the 43 fuse would make no diffrence I take it... What does fuse 43 do then?
 
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Old Aug 29, 2021 | 01:14 PM
  #53  
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https://mfer-1.com/shop/ols/products/mfer-1


Anybody try one of these?
 
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Old Sep 14, 2021 | 05:23 AM
  #54  
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I can confirm that pulling fuse 15 on a 2019 V6 (so OPF/GPF included) also makes a lot of difference. I can't even drive it anymore with the fuse installed it really is so much better on lower revs. The biggest change is that the pops and crackles start appearing at about 2300rpm and are much louder than with the fuse. So it's really nice when you drive somewhat comfortably. Additionally I would still change it to Dynamic as this further increases the exhaust note.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2021 | 01:43 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by DJS
F43 only works if you have the electric pump, which is visible inboard and behind the left rear wheel. Mine is very buzzy, sounds like a heat shield buzzing. With the valves fluttering at idle, the pump comes on occasionally.
I'm wondering if this is the issue I'm struggling with on my '16. I was able to pinpoint the sound to the pump yesterday; mind taking a look at video #5 and let me know if this is the same sound? https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...7g3rTxcnABLE6x


 
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Old Feb 3, 2022 | 09:13 PM
  #56  
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Reviving this thread...

Does anyone have experience with pulling the fuse (I'm assuming it's #15 for 2022)?

I'd like to optimize the exhaust growl..if pulling a fuse will do that without causing damage, I'm on it like cheese on a pizza.

Anyone try it? Or should I try it and report back and actually be useful to the forum?
 
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Old Feb 4, 2022 | 06:00 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Ilyushin79
Reviving this thread...

Does anyone have experience with pulling the fuse (I'm assuming it's #15 for 2022)?

I'd like to optimize the exhaust growl..if pulling a fuse will do that without causing damage, I'm on it like cheese on a pizza.

Anyone try it? Or should I try it and report back and actually be useful to the forum?
If the exhaust valves are controlled with the same fuse as they are in the 20 then yes that will achieve what you are seeking.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2022 | 06:01 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Ilyushin79
Reviving this thread...

Does anyone have experience with pulling the fuse (I'm assuming it's #15 for 2022)?

I'd like to optimize the exhaust growl..if pulling a fuse will do that without causing damage, I'm on it like cheese on a pizza.

Anyone try it? Or should I try it and report back and actually be useful to the forum?
If the exhaust valves are controlled with the same fuse as they are in the 20R then yes the will achieve what you are seeking. In the 20R its a 5 amp fuse.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2022 | 06:54 AM
  #59  
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If you look in the owner's manual, there is a section that displays the fuse boxes and a guide to tell you what each fuse is for. It's doubtful that they would have changed position since 2018, but the wise move would be to look at that diagram...it should be quite simple to find the the active exhaust valve fuse. As far as any concern of damaging the car....no, it won't damage the car. I believe in this thread, the logic of this system was explained. These valves are designed so that the fail safe position is wide open. If you pull the fuse, there is no electrical signal to close the valves, so the just stay wide open. No damage to the car's drivetrain and no codes will be thrown . If you put the fuse back in, the valves will start working as they did prior to any changes.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2022 | 07:08 AM
  #60  
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Thank you, gents!
 
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