I assume our compressors have an electric clutch and are on the accessory drive belt? On my Mercury hybrid, the compressor is driven by an electric motor so that it can still run when the engine is off. In the F-type, cold air gets warm when ECO shuts off the engine.

 

I had an issue when I first got the F-Type R where the AC would not keep temperature and fluctuated wildly. It was fixed under warranty. I think their is a TSB on it. I'll have to go back and look, but as I recall they changed the temperature control module and possibly AC compressor.

 

It happened to my F Type R in the first week of ownership. They replaced the compressor and it's been perfect ever since (for 2 years).

 

My compressor was replaced, so maybe its the temperature control module? @355rockit if you can find that TSB that would be wonderful.

 

Hi... I found the work order:

TSB = JTB0038NAS2 - Inadequate A/C performance / direct pressure sensing valve replacement.

They replaced the following:
# 821014 - Direct Pressure Sensing (DPS) electronic control valve
#101010 - Drive In/Out
#C2D42377 - Kit-Air Condition

 

Thanks I forwarded the information to the service dept. They will pick up diagnosing my car on Monday. Anyways it is the weirdest problem. If the engine is idle the A/C will continuously work fine even in D. However if i just sit in my driveway and push the brake pedal down and start revving the engine between the 1-2K range (to simulate driving-ish), the A/C will slowly fade out (get warmer) and just engine air passes through. If I stop revving the car right before the A/C compressor has totally faded out it will "regenerate" and the air will go back to cold. If I keep revving the engine until the compressor completely stops compressing, even allowing the engine to go back to idle will not result in cold air returning. I have to at this point turn my car off ~1min and then turn it back on and the A/C compressor is back to doing its job.

So basically is signaling the A/C compressor to die while the car is in Drive. In park or neutral the A/C system is totally fine. It apparently doesn't even require the car to be actually moving, just the engine needs to be working while the car is in Drive. Its like the engine is sapping power from the compressor until its dead.

 

I had a similar, though different problem the other day. I was driving along with AC set to max cool, and the vehicle just blew ambient warm air at me for 20 minutes until i gave up and shut it off. Got gas and turned the AC on again after driving away; and after hearing the familiar "spooling woosh" sound from the dash, AC worked completely fine for the final 30 minutes of my drive.

I'm thinking there are some bugs in the HVAC software.

 

I'm going to have to put my top up and try the AC :-)

 

@Stohlen, your problems sounds exactly like mine at the beginning. So I didn't think too much of it. Thought it was a one time glitch, but since then it has progressively gotten worse.

 

93 and sunny in Napa today and too hot and sunny for the top down for my wife so we put it up, set auto temp to 73 and we're cool and comfortable for the hour drive home. Worked perfectly.

 

I often run with the top down and A/C on in hot weather, maybe with the windows up. I apply sunscreen if it's a longer drive. A hat is required.

 

With the coupe, I almost always drive with the windows down with heat or A/C blasting as needed unless it is raining. The climate control system is plenty robust to pony up to the challenge.

 

Jealous I was in Napa yesterday and I had to have the top down, because my A/C decided to cut out 30 minutes into the trip.

 

We'll see how it progresses. This has been my only issue so far really.