Excellent summary of the situation. Dealers disconnect properly, so don't cause the issue. It'd be nice if Jaguar could reprogram the disconnect to circumvent the problem.

 

Here in MD, the state inspection is done at a DIY kiosk. Following the onscreen process exactly will trigger the error. No way around it.

 

It sounds a bit like shutting down a PC by just pulling the power cord. What could possibly go wrong?

 

Update. 7/27/20, pm. The dealership contacted me to bring in my car. They are going to start a technical case with Jaguar.
But, my Battery Tender was unable to keep up with whatever was draining the battery, and the car was dead.
A few hours on a charger has it back to life, and I will take it in tomorrow.
The Battery Tender can only provide 1.25 amps, and that wasn't enough. My charger hit 15+ amps, then 10, and has settled in at about 8.
I have a cigarette lighter volt meter, and the battery got down to 7+ volts. When the engine is running at about 2,000 rpm, the volts read 13.5.

 

Do you lock your car always? Whether in your garage or not? Today - a very hot day - I had my F-Type out for an hour's fast highway run (FUN! - what a car!)...so when I put it in the garage I opened the hood/bonnet to let it cool without heat-soaking all the plastic bits (the engine cover is off always). I also plugged it in to the CTEK unit - which is plugged in whenever the car is not in use.
Clearly, with the hood open the car cannot be locked; the red triangle on the console remained lit for hours until I finally shut the hood hours later (engine still very warm to the touch). If the triangle is illuminated, the computers have not shut down completely -we all know that, or should. But I noted that the CTEK unit had not brought the battery up to full charge state (and it was at full charge when I took the car out earlier)...the CTEK unit shows full charge always after it goes through the cycle, and normally when I put the car in the garage and lock it, it takes less than 15-20 minutes to go through the complete programme to full charge.
With the hood closed, I locked the car and watched the triangle. Within a few minutes everything was shut down, red triangle dark. None of what I have written is of any concern...it is perfectly normal.

My point? Unless the car is locked, and if the red triangle is still illuminated, there is battery drain - and the CTEK unit will take a long time to bring it to full charge. And if the quiescent drain is higher than the CTEK charging rate...well, then it might never come to full charge.
So the simple question about locking the car is a pertinent part of the history when a battery drain is considered - even if an OBD II connection forms part of the history.

 

The car will totally shut down if Left unlocked, but will take substantially longer than when locked. I have left my car unlocked for weeks at a time and without draining the battery.

 

Lengthy update. I picked up the car today (8/7), and they think they fixed it. We'll see. I will go to my friendly State inspection station again, and have them access the OBD port, to see if I can replicate the historic low battery issue, after an OBD check. But, here is everything the dealer wrote up.

Cust states low battery message showing on dash.
Went to get a State inspection and when got home hazard and push button stay lit up and battery died 3 days later.
Vehicle not shutting down properly. AMP modules and BCM not shutting down after vehicle is parked.
Verified battery light on after vehicle is locked for 20 minutes. Updated BCM, AMP, both door modules, and IPC.
After updates locked vehicle and monitored amp draw (spec 0.020A for 20 minutes). Found vehicle drawing 0.017A.
Compared these readings to another F Type stock unit (0.015 - 0.017A draw).
Read vehicle when locked to verify any modules online that should not be.
Found GWM, BCM, DDM, PDM, tailgate modules online. Compared to stock unit, normal operation.
Recommend customer services vehicle at approved Land Rover/Jag shops as I have found no parasitic draw after accessing OBD port as customer stated.
2nd key will need to be programmed as BCM relowd deleted all keys.

I will try to get it to fail again by going to my State inspection station, and report back.
Maybe reloading everything fixed the problem. We'll see. The other answer is to just have my State Inspection done at my friendly local Jag dealer.

 

Hi There

I got the warnoing message...just after a maintenance, and a 800km road trip and let the cars 3 days off.
I tried to unscrew the + Battery bound... but the scew it so tighten .. ;I can't do it so I'm afraid to brake something.
Is it normal ? Should I do something to release the + jaw ?

thanks

 

Glad that I ran into this thread, this explains a lot regarding why I have had the low battery notification. I had one a few weeks back and disconnected the positive lead from the battery to reset the car and went for spirited drive, no issues. This also happen the previous year.

Now I know why, I went in for my annual Georgia emissions test a few prior to the battery issues both times.

This is definitely, the trigger for me, it has never happened at any other time.

Thanks!

TheDude

 

Never had problem with Nevada emission tests in any car.

 

I have a 2017 F type Premium Coupe, manual trans, 6 cyl/SC and have been getting this low battery message. I put about 160 miles on the car yesterday and it went away, only to return today. I did the "exit car, lock doors and check back in 5 minutes" to see if the hazard light was still lit, and it was not. I'm thinking I need to do the battery reboot, but want to make sure I am messing with the correct battery. Is it preferable to do the positive cable? leave it off for 10 seconds? A photo of the 'battery bay' with the correct battery IDd would be great. I am only used to the battery hookup for my 69 E, so this is mind boggling.

Also any updates on connecting a battery tender? I haven't purchased anything yet. I have the Jaguar installation instructions for the harness, but the interior panels on this 2017 aren't the same as the instructions. It appears that I would essentially have to deconstruct the entire interior of the trunk area to be able to drill the hole for the plug-in socket. I'm confused by the posts that say that a tender HAS to be connected to the trunk bus bar and negative body ground and the posts that say that the tender CAN be attached to the positive terminal and to a ground post in the "jump start" box in the front corner under the hood. Any illumination would be much appreciated.

 

I have had battery replace 2x. This is an Electric car, like most later year Jaguars. If the battery is not fully charged, the car is DEAD!!

 

I'm too lazy to attach my CTEK MXS 5.0 permanently, so I use the clips. I lift out the trunk cubby to reveal the junction box, lift the its lid and connect +ve to the +ve bus and the -ve to the earth stud where the battery -ve is connected. I charge on my driveway, so put the charger on the floor of the trunk and drape an extension lead out the hatch lid. I can close the hatch on the cable without any obvious damage. I usually put it on charge overnght when it gets low and it's always ready in the morning.

Regarding the battery reset, the usual technique is to disconnect the negative cable for a few seconds. However, it does sound like your battery just needs a full charge, not a reset.

 

Valerie, you only have one battery on the 2017. Disconnect the ground lead to the battery, either at the battery terminal or where it's bolted to the floor under the cubby tray (whichever is easiest for you). Leave disconnected for 10-15 seconds. Whether the bat. control module (BCM) needs to be reset or not, it's a good place to start there. If that doesn't eliminate the low battery warning coming on the next day, then it is likely a bad battery. I am convinced that the need for a tender on these cars is an urban myth unless you are putting the car in storage for several months.. Never had a battery problem, even after letting the car sit for several weeks at a time while I've been on travel or stuck at home. Resetting the BCM after each time someone accesses the OBD connector is the key.

 

I agree, I have never used a tender. When I started having a drain, I replaced the battery which I didn’t think was the issue. It turned out the drain was the door handle. I did have the hazard triangle lit al the time and in my case the little light on the passenger side (inside) lock and In lock button always stayed lit.

 

Good to know. I never lock mine in the garage.

 

Hi
Since I reseted the battery (by removing the RED bound for seconds) It seems to be ok, no more battery drain. I made 6000km recently... So I used the car almost every days... sO I didnt't get the message anymore.
SO The car is parked since now approx a week, And last time I gone to check, It seems ok... I will recheck again today.
SO the reset seems to be the solution, especially after a service (When they used the OBD check)

 

So just gone to check... and... "low battery" AGAIN ..... That's clearly weird

 

You mentioned that you checked a couple of times. Did you start the engine and drive each time to To recharge the drain incurred by checking? Turning on the ignition several times without running the engine is guaranteed to cause a low battery alarm.

 

nop. Just unlocked the car. That 'it.
SO after 1 week, with out starting the engin, just unlocking the car, ... after 6000km of 3weeks driving... the message came back...