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No such thing. I have an OEM battery on the shelf and carefully inspected all 6 sides. The QR code on top refers to the CW battery model number that's printed on that same label.
And here I thought all batteries has the manufacture date stamped into the plastic case somewhere on it. Thanks .
When we do replace the battery, is it simply take out the old battery and replace with new, or are there other considerations ie: any electrical resetting necessary.
I ask because my battery is close to retirement and I have the VAP tune as well.
Not may, will. To both.
And maybe the clock as well.
I said "may" as I'm sure I've seen posts on here from some who didn't have to reset windows. And the clock should reset from an internet timeserver ....
If, after changing the battery, the auto-engine stop/start feature no longer works, you will need to have the dealer re-sync the battery management module with the new battery. However, most folks are grateful if that feature no longer functions.
I suspect most batteries replaced by the dealer never needed replacing. Certainly, replacing the battery fixes the problem as the battery has to be disconnected (battery management module reset) to be replaced. If the dealers and JNA would ever listen to their customers, they could save a bunch of money on batteries replaced under warranty (unless they hold the OEM liable for the warranty claim). To this day, my dealership denies any knowledge of the OBD issue.
I read a lot of posts when the group buy for a lithium battery thread was active and I thought I got the general understanding I could replace the battery myself and not need the dealer tweek (battery management module reset) and everything would be fine. I have an Antigravity H7 (60) ready to install but now I'm wondering if I need to have something reset or just drop it in and no problems at all based on this post. Advice, input?
And, sadly, the car will not be going to Thailand, They have a combined 200% tariff/import duty fee based on the car's value. Ah, NO! Car gets to live in storage and driven when I travel back here.
I read a lot of posts when the group buy for a lithium battery thread was active and I thought I got the general understanding I could replace the battery myself and not need the dealer tweek (battery management module reset) and everything would be fine. I have an Antigravity H7 (60) ready to install but now I'm wondering if I need to have something reset or just drop it in and no problems at all based on this post. Advice, input?
And, sadly, the car will not be going to Thailand, They have a combined 200% tariff/import duty fee based on the car's value. Ah, NO! Car gets to live in storage and driven when I travel back here.
Just drop in the Lithium battery. You might lose the ECO stop/start feature, but who cares?
I’m planning to go with a Duralast Platinum from Autozone for $199. My car was built in May of 2013, so it’s due IMO. Not clear from a quick glance how much of the trunk I’ll need to disassemble to get it out. OEM battery is a Flamm.
I’m planning to go with a Duralast Platinum from Autozone for $199. My car was built in May of 2013, so it’s due IMO. Not clear from a quick glance how much of the trunk I’ll need to disassemble to get it out. OEM battery is a Flamm.
lift out the two floor panels, then lift out the storage tub (no fasteners). You'll then have easy access to the two battery hold-down bar bolts. 2-3 minutes, tops. I am assuming, of course, it's the same for the vert as it is for the coupe.
We've always had success in bringing our BMW's & Mercedes to the dealer right at the last month before the factory warranty expires, 47th month before the 48 month expiration, & have everything checked, including the battery. Guess they're being reimbursed by corporate, cause they always replaced the battery with a brand new one.
Will try to do that with Jag before this 5 yr warranty is up....
I just replaced mine preemptively with an Interstate from Costco (Item#: 1355853, $177.99). The layout is a bit tight, but easy enough to work around.
- Lift out the storage tub and the floor panel on the left that covers the battery.
- Remove the tie-down bar and the retaining plate along the right side of the battery (there's a small cut in the liner on the left to access that side of the bar).
- Loosen the positive terminal and tuck it out of the way.
- The negative side is a bit tight, but you can slide the battery a bit towards the rear of the car in order to disengage the retainer on the front edge; then lift that end to slide forward for better access to the negative terminal.
After you install the new battery, you'll need to reset the auto function on the windows (and the clock on our MY).
- Roll the driver's window down and back up. Release the button, then press "Up" again for a few seconds. Lower it, release, and press "Down" again for a few seconds.
- Repeat the process for the passenger's window.
As I recall, you may need to do this with the engine running vs accessory mode.
In a negative ground system - Always remove the negative cable first and install it last. This ensures you don’t accidentally short out your system if your wrench hits a ground point while disconnecting the positive cable.
So before I start the swap, exactly what is this lead? and what do I do with it?
If you are talking about the black tube with a red plug going to the battery then that is the battery gas evacuation tube.
Simply pull it out of the old battery and plug it in to the new battery.
If you are talking about the black tube with a red plug going to the battery then that is the battery gas evacuation tube.
Simply pull it out of the old battery and plug it in to the new battery.
Or if you are installing a lithium battery, just disconnect the tube from the OEM battery and tie it out of the way.
I've had battery issues with my 14 V8 S. I've experienced random faults, the inability to start the car, no dynamic mode, and the OBD access issue disabling the car. A new battery from Jag helped for a few months, then more of the same although a trickle charger eliminated no-starts. I wondered if maybe the problem isn't the car at all, but weak/crappy OEM brand batteries.
I put a $175 Duralast AGM Platinum 1000 CCA battery in and I have had zero issues going on 2 years. That includes routine OBD access with a Foxwell diagnostic tool, a cheap $10 Chinese TorquePro dongle, and a Head-Up display all switched-up regularly. So installing a good battery was the 100% solution for me. I still trickle charge if the car mostly sits for a few weeks (the charger plug shown takes a spring-coiled ceiling-mounted extension cord that I run into the trunk) but that's a left over habit from OEM.
Sorry for reviving this old post. I am currently installing this exact same battery in my 2015 F type. My only question is that the Old original battery that came with the Jag (a FIAMM) had one vent port on The positive terminal side. The negative terminal side appears to be closed and not open. However, on the Dura last battery both sides have open vent holes. My question is do I attach the vent tube to the positive terminal and leave the negative terminal open? Should I plug the negative terminal? It doesn’t seem as though I can remove the plug from the old battery to put in the news since it appears that it was closed at the factory. Not sure if you encountered this issue with your battery change since it appears as though you have the exact same battery pictured in your description. Thanks in advance for the help!
