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If your are going to be working on the F-Type for more than 5 minutes with ignition on and without the engine running, the battery will drop precipitously. The BMS apparently drains the battery quickly after ignition starts for reasons I still don't understand, plus whatever you are working on as well (like a stereo amp).
Plug in your battery charger right after you come home from a long drive and see what happens if you are in doubt. It should be fully charged, right? For those doing ECU or DSP tuning, brakes, etc, this is important.
Some of these high amp battery supply units that shops use are quite expensive. For ECU and stereo tuning I use this 20A battery supply:
It also has myriad charge functions as well. Important to know: the battery must be fully charged before using the supply function.
Using anything less during these procedures (like the common CTEK 5A) may not keep up with the current draw. Also most battery charger/maintainers only start working when voltage drops below a critical threshold.
Looks like a good choice. Not sure why you blame BMS, there are a ton of modules that are powered up with ignition on.
Ham radio power supplies would be a relatively inexpensive option. Most have fixed outputs at 13.8V, which should be good. I have this 30A Alinco, which I haven’t tried on the car (it powers a ham radio)… https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/alo-dm-30tr
BMS drains the battery from fully charged to some set point (in my case 70%) minutes after staring the car with engine running. So on top of whatever you are working on (ECU, brakes, etc) you have this additional loss of charge.
I will upload a plot when I get a chance. But if I have offended BMS and its enthusiasts, I apologize.
BMS drains the battery from fully charged to some set point (in my case 70%) minutes after staring the car with engine running. So on top of whatever you are working on (ECU, brakes, etc) you have this additional loss of charge.
I will upload a plot when I get a chance. But if I have offended BMS and its enthusiasts, I apologize.
It's illogical to be offended by real data, although many seem to indulge in such offense.
I'm curious why the system would work that way. I don't see what purpose it serves, but I'm not an electrical engineer or rechargeable battery expert. I come from the old school of alternators (even generators) and dumb charging and sometimes feel like Winnie the Pooh, a bear of little brain.
I got the joke, but opted on a deadpan response to keep the thread on topic.
I had seen some discussion on this but still don't understand how well this would work with short trips versus long. I considered an AntiGravity battery at one point (I have one in my MV) but the cost is just too high. I recently replaced my 7+ year old battery with an identical replacement.
The first few times I used the flash tool on my ECU I did not hook up a charger but later decided that was foolish, considering that I had one.
Battery supply for ECU and stereo tuning
For those doing ECU or DSP tuning, brakes, etc, this is important.
