I’m planning on changing out the primary battery and removing the secondary battery completely tonight.

Anything I need to be aware of before doing so? I bought a ‘memory saver’ to plug into the OBD2 port when changing so as to avoid losing settings or having to have the dealer reset anything.

Is that all I need to do? Is there anything else I should prep so as to not screw up anything electronic?

 

Make sure the EPB is not applied.
Remove the negative earth/ground lead first the negative battery lead next and the positive lead last.
Reverse the order when fitting the new battery.
Many of those "memory savers" don't work as advertised, if yours doesn't work all you will lose are your Trip A and Trip B readouts and the one touch window up/down, easily reset by following the instructions in your Owner Handbook.
You may also need to reset the EPB, again look in the Handbook.
That's it, nothing else to worry about or reset!

 

Thanks @OzXFR

I haven’t taken a look yet so it may be something visually obvious, but there are two negatives to disconnect for the battery?

 

I figured out the ground, but for some reason the negative terminal is being a PITA and doesn’t seem to want to come off.

I loosened the 10mm nut but the connector itself isn’t coming off.

 

You may need to pry it open a little, a large flat blade screwdriver should do the trick.

 

It seems like the middle circular part on the connector is stuck or something?

I can wiggle it back and forth but it won’t release from the battery itself.

 

Sorry, I don't know why it is stuck and I can't help you any more.
I replaced the battery on both my old XFS and XFR with zero problems but I am yet to replace the battery on the F-Type or even remove either terminal cable.
All I have done is disconnect the earth lead from the floor of the boot/trunk.
Maybe someone who has removed the main battery on an F-Type can chime in.

 

I’m assuming it’s corrosion causing them to stick together. It’s the original battery by the looks of it.

Is WD40 ok to spray on to try to get things loosened?

 

I just had a squiz at my battery and it seems to me that you also need to loosen the larger (13mm???) nut - far left in your pic, on the end of the black plastic connector (which I believe is the BMS controller).
I doubt if WD40 would help but I also doubt it would cause any damage.

 

The WD40 ended up doing the trick. Apparently there was just enough corrosion to cause the connector to not break free, but not enough to be visibly obvious.

I sprayed a little on a waiter a minute and it came off relatively easily. I can’t catch a break with this car — a 2 hour battery change 😒

Thanks for the help @OzXFR

 

So I got it wrong yet again!
But thanks for the feedback, now I know what to do (and what not to do) if I ever change out the battery on the F-Type.
Although I reckon there is almost zero chance of my negative battery terminal connector being stuck on due to corrosion.

 

Can one put a trickle charger on the under hood postive and negative spots to "keep memory" while changing the battery? Or will this hurt the car? The 12v sockets are not hot and the obdII port issues have scared me off trying this with an obdII port battery/memory saver (unless someone has data saying this is a great way to do things).

Thank you in advance everyone. Sorry to dig up an old thread but am planning an AntiGravity H7 in the near future.

 

Note that a battery maintainer like CTEK or Battery Tender wouldn't work, as they require a battery voltage to be present before they switch on. Also, there doesn't seem to be much that the car forgets when the battery is disconnected - date/time, maybe window auto up position (easy to reset.)

 

Thanks. I have an aftermarket carplay unit in the car that I would prefer not to reset.....not sure if it survives a battery change without going to some sort of default mode. Will check with the manufacturer I guess. Figured a simple trickle would do the trick. I have one of those old big Schumacher units for lead acid batteries.....mad scientist sized....little needle thing I think...very 70's even though bought in the last 15 years. Worked great in its day now just sits idle. Wanted to know if using it on trickle could hurt the car if the battery was out....

 

I think that would probably work - even if it doesn't, I can't see it hurting anything. I'd open the trunk and hood and wait at least 10-15 minutes after shutting the car off, so that the car is 'sleeping' and using minimal current. Opening a door etc. will wake it up.

 

If you have two sets of jump leads you could connect the new battery to the underhood terminals, remove the old battery, connect that also to the underhood terminals and then disconnect the new one and fit it in its proper place. Don't shut the trunk lid with the battery out!

 

I sceond SCM's suggestion.
You could also leave a small tractor/motorcycle battery connected to the engine bay terminals while you swap out the main battery.

 

If you do any of these, be extra careful with the positive lead you disconnect from the battery, as it will still be live. Be SURE that it doesn't touch the chassis.

 

Brilliant - this is my plan now.

Thank you!

jb

 

Hello everyone. This is my first post on this forum. I became an owner of a 2016 F-Type S Convertible about an year ago. These forums have been extremely useful. Thanks to everyone for contributing to them. Had my first check engine line come on a few days ago. I used these forums to research the OBDII devices and came across this battery drain problem. I got an iCarSoft i930 today because I saw a couple of posts mention that they have not had problems with that OBD reader with their F-Types. I used it today and kept an eye on the hazard and door lock lights and well, they wouldn't turn off. Just did a battery reset by disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery in the trunk and it worked. Ended up losing all my settings. Got a little worried initially because the mirrors didn't fold the first time I locked the car after the reset but they began folding after I took it for a drive.

A few quick questions/concerns about this procedure:

• If someone has used an iCarSoft i930 reader on their F-type, please let me know what the connect/ignition/disconnect order of steps might be in case I did that wrong and that is why I ran into this battery drain problem.
• Electrically speaking, how is disconnecting the thick grounding cable equivalent to disconnecting the battery terminal as mentioned in another post above? Doesn't the circuit remain closed so long as the black battery terminal itself is on the battery? (I am an engineer albeit not an electrical one so pardon my lack of understanding there). Are all other electronics in the car also ground to the chassis and the battery is ground to the chassis is what is closing the circuit?
• Are there any concerns about damaging electronics when trying to reconnect the negative terminal? It was a little tricky to maneuver that lead back onto the battery terminal in that tight little space without flickering the connection.
• Would you conduct the battery connect/disconnect procedure with the vehicle starting in any particular state. For example should the vehicle be locked or unlocked, doors closed, audio system off, headlights off, etc?
• I have seen some other threads on this same topic on these forums mention something about depressing brake pedal in the battery reset procedure (e.g. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...4/#post1602765). Not sure if there is any merit to it. I didn't do it today and everything seems okay. Just wanted to confirm that that is the case.

I apologize in advance if my post is missing something. Thanks for your help.

EDIT: Just found this thread (Disconnecting Battery - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum) that answers some of my questions.