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~Dirty paint and upholstery will reduce lifespan, so cleaning is more important than just looks.
~Never ever go through an automatic touch wash. Automatic touch free is ok, but will leave a film so the car isnt completely clean.
~Spray the dirt off with low pressure, then high pressure is ok. Use two bucket method with microfiber to clean and rinse.
~If you can feel resistance or contaminates in the clean surface by running your fingers lightly a cross the wet paint and glass, then it is time to clay the car.
~Only clay squeaky clean paint and glass. Claying is the key to gloss perfection. It will also eliminate cloth fiber leftovers. Claying exterior glass will make it look and perform like new. Ideally, rewash after clay.
~If you haven't waxed, wax with 3 to 5 coats of a good carnuba hard wax. It might take a week to complete. At this point if you didn't let the paint deteriorate before starting your routine, the shine should exceed showroom.
~After initial wax coats, redo a hard coat at least once a year, preferably twice.
~Finish each wash with a good spray wax. Mostly dry the car, then spray and spread with clean microfiber all paint and shiny plastic. Use care not to overspray a soft top, it'll dry white.
~Let spray wax dry and harden for a few minutes, then buff with a thick microfiber cloth to a deep shine. The spray wax coat will look amazing and keep dirt from sticking after washing.
~Frequently change to a clean microfiber cloth while working, about one side of a cloth per large body panel. Wash your microfiber towels on a long cycle with double rinse between uses.
~Frequent interior light vacuuming is the most important thing you can do inside, since dirt creates the majority of upholstery and carpet damage.
This subject is like ice cream. Everybody has a favorite flavor.
My position is that waxing is old school. I don't like the "warm" look and don't like applying it. It does not last as long as other products.
I'm enjoying the look of sealants which result in an eye popping wet look shine. Easy to apply. I do it twice a year.
I'm also experimenting with a product that you spritz it on the wet paint, after washing of course, and then spray off with hose. It is the same eye popping shine as the sealant, amazing!
And I always use a detail spray after wash and drying with a blower.
I don't use clay. I use Nano-Skin. Very fine product and paintwork slicker than ever.
This subject is like ice cream. Everybody has a favorite flavor.
My position is that waxing is old school. I don't like the "warm" look and don't like applying it. It does not last as long as other products.
I'm enjoying the look of sealants which result in an eye popping wet look shine. Easy to apply. I do it twice a year.
I'm also experimenting with a product that you spritz it on the wet paint, after washing of course, and then spray off with hose. It is the same eye popping shine as the sealant, amazing!
And I always use a detail spray after wash and drying with a blower.
I don't use clay. I use Nano-Skin. Very fine product and paintwork slicker than ever.
Any product that removes contaminants is the key to perfect shine. I like clay because it is so soft and won't do damage. Another great quality of automotive clay is that you can see the dirt collect in it. Only use it after a thorough washing, so the visible contaminants lifted into the clay actually teach you how often to use it. If 100g bar won't get you through an F-Type, you need to clay more often.
The reason for a finishing product like a spray wax is primarily to dry and shine the car to pevent new dirt from sticking, and to lift water spots which eat paint over time and look unsightly.
On a silimar note, it is not a good idea to drive the car dry for these reasons, IMO. I think pro detailers would agree.
This subject is like ice cream. Everybody has a favorite flavor.
My position is that waxing is old school. I don't like the "warm" look and don't like applying it. It does not last as long as other products.
I'm enjoying the look of sealants which result in an eye popping wet look shine. Easy to apply. I do it twice a year.
I'm also experimenting with a product that you spritz it on the wet paint, after washing of course, and then spray off with hose. After waxing my cars for years I now only use sealants. BTW, if you really want to feel how much contamination there is on you paint, put your hand inside a plastic sandwich bag and run your hand over the paint
And I always use a detail spray after wash and drying with a blower.
I don't use clay. I use Nano-Skin. Very fine product and paintwork slicker than ever.
Actually claying is done before you apply a sealant (or wax) so that you don't trap contaminants under the sealant . After waxing my cars for years I now only use sealants, they are harder and last much longer. BTW, if you really want to feel how much contamination there is on you paint, put your hand inside a plastic sandwich bag and run your hand over the paint
Actually claying is done before you apply a sealant (or wax) so that you don't trap contaminants under the sealant . After waxing my cars for years I now only use sealants, they are harder and last much longer. BTW, if you really want to feel how much contamination there is on you paint, put your hand inside a plastic sandwich bag and run your hand over the paint
+1. I have never waxed the car. cQuartzed it 3 Years ago and just recently had it coated with Ceramic Pro (5yr). Still looks better/shinier than new. I’m guessing that there is no one right way of doing this.
Seriously, thank you for that.
I can see that as a police academy style prank for later.
Unfortunately- "DO NOT USE ON HEAD, FACE, AROUND EYES, IN NOSE, IN EARS, ON NIPPLES, PERIANAL OR GENITAL AREAS"
After two and a half years, I'm sure your advice is too late ....
I always get a kick out of these “years old” posts where someone chimes in with even just the simplest and shortest of posts.
Originally Posted by fuzzysquid
Someone signing up only to post a link to a product in a dead thread... this is spam. It's happened a few times recently.
See that first quote I posted? The guy showing the link to “Nair for Men”? I’ve been trying to get this guy kicked off and/or banned from this forum for years. No luck. Not only that, he keeps showing up at all 6 of my events! At this point I/we have no choice but to humor him. And his camera as he has been, since that very first event, our talented and “Official” Photographer. (As a side note, and stream of consciousness, it would be fantastic if someone posted asking if they could attend the 2016 Jaguar Lobster Run).
My Routine:
1) Rinse car (including fabric top and wheels) thoroughly
2) treat wheels like paint (mine actually are) - ceramic coat them (not sure if you had that done, but it really helps keep brake dust from sticking). Before anything else after initial rinse, i use a heavy duty wheel cleaner (i have used Sonax and it is good, but smells bad and doesnt spray on sudsy -- i now use Griots Heavy Duty Wheel Cleaner. it sprays on sudsy. i let this do its thing while washing car
3) for convertible, dont use soap (shampoo), cleaners, etc on fabric top unless absolutely necessary. It shortens the life of the repellence (sp?) - ability to shed water. Vacuum, rinse as needed
4) wash as Steve said (2 buckets, good soap, and a good microfiber mitt, in shade) - work from topmost to bottom in succession, rinsing mitt and reloading with soap frequently.
5) Rinse everything thoroughly
6) If chrome tail pipe tips are dirty, use Bar Keeper's Friend
7) Wash wheels like paint
8) Rinse wheels
9) i dont use a blower or towel to dry... i drive it for a quick loop on local freeway to blow off most of the water. this also allows me to have more quality time drving :-)
10) once dry, i use a detailer spray (there are many, i use Griot's Speed Shine and/or Best of Show detailer. This allows you to wipe on some extra shine while wiping off any leftover drops to avoid water spots
11) every 4-5 washes, i use "reload" on the XPel and ceramic surfaces to replenish it's beading/shine
12) for interior leather, vacuum BEFORE using leather cleaner/conditioner -- especially in the threads and crevices (you don't want to lock in dust). Be sure to use an attachment with SOFT bristles (horsehair, etc.). I use griots 3-1 leather care. it does mild cleaning, conditioning, and adds UV protection -- especially useful for convertible.
13) when cleaning windows, a trick i learned from someone on this forum (?) is to do interior windows one direction (e.g. horizontally) and exterior the other direction (e.g. vertical) so it is easy to see which side needs help if you have streaks
(again, my process... ymmv BTW, i dont work for Griots, just like their products)
FAR, FAR TL;DR
as Steve said... Drive and enjoy. Don't be careless. Don't go through a carwash.
Nice write up... two things I did to my convertible that seemed to work...
I had the soft top coated with CQuartz for fabric when new, and it lasted all 3 years I had the car. I didn't really have to "wash" the top, just rinse it off. In between washes, I found that a 3M lint brush took care of dust and lint quite well. Water beaded up on the top just like it does on the paint, for the duration.
My detailer, who did the paint correction and ceramic coating when new, also ceramic coated the exhaust tips. After that, all I had to do was wipe them off using a waterless wash or quick detail spray and a microfiber cloth. They would then shine like new.
I just had mine ceramic coated including the wheels and calipers. Then I had Xpel applied over the entire front. I have an appointment on Thursday to see how they suggest cleaning the car after the applications. I will update after. Originally they told me light rinse and blow off with a leaf blower. I tried that on the front end and didn't seem to do much for me.
I have film on mine. I use a detailing spray like Griot's Garage Best of Show since I ran out of the special custom spray, Unhinged gave the Blueberry Blast attendees.
I have film on mine. I use a detailing spray like Griot's Garage Best of Show since I ran out of the special custom spray, Unhinged gave the Blueberry Blast attendees.
I would make sure that is ok for the film. I thought on my clear bra that was not recommended. I could be wrong. I am going in tomorrow to the place that installed my Xpel and ceramic coated my car and will see what they say for me in terms of quick detailers.
They did my first wash today. Used soap with a correct pH, a sprayer and leaf blower. They suggested a hand wash once a month but simple and quick. I did see they have a detailer and enhancer spray they sell on Amazon for my brand ceramic coating which I assume works for any ceramic coating.
Wow, read this entire thread and nobody mentioned using a water demineralization system.
I have been using one for years, i started because trying to wash a black boat out in the Texas sun is one of the most frustrating and labor intensive jobs you can imagine.
Although not cheap, the time and energy it saves is priceless. You can literally wash your vehicles and just let them air dry without any water spots forming. I do go a step further and blow the majority of the water off but it is really not necessary, I just do it so that any dust or pollen blowing around doesn’t settle in the water.
