In September I'm changing every fluid in my 2016 F-Type R. Originally, I planned on just flushing the coolant system with water and filling it back up with the specified WSS-M97B44-D fluid, but why not use a flush chemical as well to make sure everything is as clean as possible. The manual specifies "EGR-M14P7-A" fluid for flushing. I'm wondering if that is a typo though? When I do a search for it I cannot find that spec and the most common result is Ford/Motorcraft VC-1, it meets spec "ESR-M14P7-A". The VC-1 description says its compatible with all coolant types and is safe for aluminum water pumps. Has anyone on these forums used a cooling system flush cleaner prior to a coolant change on their F-Type?

 

I would NOT flush unless you have some kind of problem?
No need to on a properly maintained car and yours sure is!

What does the coolant look like? Any deposits visible in the remote tank?
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Changing coolant is a good idea but chemical flush is an overkill, your car is not old enough to need more than a fluid change. Over time coolant goes acidic and start attacking gaskets, so it is important to change it. 2016 car potentially has a coolant that is 5 years old. This is within reasonable service interval.

Also, don't forget to change transmission fluid and filter.

 

I've used a flush product for a coolant change. just make sure you fill and drain w distilled water a couple times before replacing coolant. Also just an FYI motorcraft orange has been superseded by yellow. Thats mostly what you'll find available these days.

Have fun.

 

Surprisingly, the maintenance schedule calls for the first coolant flush at 160,000 miles.

 

Because they know all the plastic coolant hoses will have broken long beforehand and forced you to change it anyway.

 

Do NOT use anything but Dex-Cool!
That has the right spec for our cars.
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Should I bother with changing the thermostat while I have the system empty?

 

I've changed coolant on older classic cars many times, but I suspect there are nuances to the F-Type. Does anyone have a cooling system flush and fill procedure?

Thanks
Steve

 

I looked into doing this myself as well. I have the proper tool to refill the system without getting air into it, but could not find anything about getting all the old coolant out. Mine is a V-8 so I first looked at pulling the block plugs. You can forget that, as you can't get to them unless you remove the A/C compressor on one side and the AWD unit on the other side. I actually have an older Flush/Fill machine but was unable to get proper hookups to do it correctly. ( Plus I couldn't figure out where or how to hook it up with the system they have.) I finally gave in and decided the local Jag dealer probably has the right machine to do the job so I made an appointment to have it flushed. Well I quickly learned they do NOT have a flush/fill machine and all they did was drain the radiator, fill it with water (distilled I hope!), run the engine, drain the water, fill it with water once again, run the engine, drain it, then refill with greater than 60% coolant. I could have done all this myself, but thought there was a better way of getting all the old coolant out. Live & learn!

 

My best suggestion is to get and use a vacuum re-filler. These are very complicated cooling systems and many have problems getting the air out. I just got mine and WOW one and done! No additional coolant needed and no air pockets.

As posted above I have no tips on draining and I just pull hoses and open the degas bottle cap and FULLY remove the plastic drain plug from the bottom of the radiator for maximum flow. I also use a bit of compressed air to push additional amounts of coolant out. The good thing these cooling systems stay very clean as there is no iron anymore in the engine or cooling system. It's all rubber,plastic and Aluminum.

If concerned you can do the flush and fill multiple times using only water. I have been impressed with how clean the coolant comes out I just don't see anything it it at all.
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On others cars I've had where you cannot easily drain all the coolant, you can just halve the time/mileage interval for drain & fills.

That is enough to protect the cooling system, as the additives in the coolant will be refreshed.

 

The coolant on my former 2015 R tested as on the acidic side with test strip, so had it flushed at an independent at around 20K miles. Good cheap piece of mind. Kind of like doing an oil change at 1000 miles... everyone has an opinion.

 

Re the vacuum fill tool, I’ve never used one - can you tell me what the tool does?
thanks
steve

 

Yes and it's so simple I don't know why it took years for them to come out? Or maybe I just never heard of it before?

Uses compressed air to pull a vacuum on the cooling system. Kind of weird seeing all the cooling hoses collapsed from the vacuum.
You hold the vacuum a bit looking to see if it holds. Then you use the vacuum in the system to pull the coolant in.
Here is the one I got but they all work the same.


Now one thing to remember? Vacuum is NOT the same as pressure. So while the system might hold fine when under vacuum that does not guarantee it won't leak when under pressure. Still vacuum is a decent first test.
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Thanks! Amazon has many of these tool kits. Would you have a recommendation on what I should look for in a good kit, or even a specific kit?
thanks
steve

 

not just a "piece of mind" as I have to learn the hard way. After 10 years of ownership of my 2014 V8S (45'km) I decided to flush the coolant as recommended
by jaguars maintenance shedule in conjuction with replacing my slightly leaking waterpump. After pulling the pump I saw the oil cooler outlet sticking in the
plastic connection part totally destroyed by corrosion! Obviously the corrosion inhibitors of the coolant didn't last as long as expected by Jaguar.
On this occasion I was forced to do a complete coolant system rebuild with aluminium pipes, new oil cooler, new heater crossover pipe .... which is the good thing about
the story. My future maintenance shedule will include PH value monitoring of the coolant (8,6 when new) as well as some extra coolant changes.


parts changed

corroded oil cooler outlet tube

outlet tube stuck in plastic pipe

Regards
Ulrich

 

Thanks for posting as I have never seen the oil cooler brick corrode like that? Yes the transfer tube is a known failure point and that thankfully is out now in lifetime Aluminum. I need to test the PH as I don't do that now. I use a refractometer to determine the freezing point.
Any recommendation on the PH strips? I have a bunch from my pool so those should work OK?

When I was shopping for the vacuum filler they really seem all the same but I am sure there must be differences. Again they are all made in china so I don't think using a name brand gets you anything special. It's so simple there is nothing to it but a bit of tubing and some valves and the correct adapter to mount to your degas bottle. I wanted one with a case for the adapters and other fiddly bits. The downside is you do need compressed air to draw the vacuum.

Like I need another plastic box!
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