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I brought my AWD S in for its 32k service this morning. Everything was going well until they went for the transmission/differential fluid change. According to the techs, two nuts that are welded to the chassis may have broken loose at the transmission mount so they can’t remove the bolts that keep the guard on. And even if they break the bolts off, they have to figure out how to put it back on. Looks like they will need to get their shop foreman and Jag HQ for the fix. Their ftype techs only work Tuesday thru Saturday, so I’ve got an FPace till Tuesday at the earliest.
Not blaming the dealership, I’ve had my issues with bolts breaking while working on my cars.
Does anyone know which bolts could be giving this trouble?
thank you for the link. Looks to be exactly the issue described to me.The description of the fix is hideous. Cut out and replace a section of the floor/chassis. Wow. 😪. seems like a multi week job.
Is the panel in question an access to the transmission or the diff?
It appears to be the AWD transfer box.
From an update posted by the OP in the thread linked in post #3 here:
"To update this after my conversation with their Service Manager today. What I was told by the Service Advisor was fundamentally incorrect. It was the Transfer Box fluid that was being changed as part of the service schedule and in order to do that the gearbox cross member needs to be removed. It was a captive nut within the chassis that came loose and necessitated the specialist works."
Lots of initial confusion in that thread that the OP was talking about the simple plastic undertray (the rear one) and two of the four bolts which hold that tray on. I have removed that tray at least three times (it needs to come off to access the sump plug) and never had a problem with "captive nuts" so I couldn't figure out what they were talking about and I put it down to some difference in the way the tray was attached on an AWD compared to a RWD.
But it's not the tray at all, it's a gearbox cross member and the captive nuts on the top of it.
It appears to be the AWD transfer box.
From an update posted by the OP in the thread linked in post #3 here:
"To update this after my conversation with their Service Manager today. What I was told by the Service Advisor was fundamentally incorrect. It was the Transfer Box fluid that was being changed as part of the service schedule and in order to do that the gearbox cross member needs to be removed. It was a captive nut within the chassis that came loose and necessitated the specialist works."
Lots of initial confusion in that thread that the OP was talking about the simple plastic undertray (the rear one) and two of the four bolts which hold that tray on. I have removed that tray at least three times (it needs to come off to access the sump plug) and never had a problem with "captive nuts" so I couldn't figure out what they were talking about and I put it down to some difference in the way the tray was attached on an AWD compared to a RWD.
But it's not the tray at all, it's a gearbox cross member and the captive nuts on the top of it.
Update: they’ve used hole saws to drill through the floors, and the car will now move to the body shop for welding the nuts back in, and they will then weld back the material they removed from the drilling w/hole saws.
Update: they’ve used hole saws to drill through the floors, and the car will now move to the body shop for welding the nuts back in, and they will then weld back the material they removed from the drilling w/hole saws.
sorry to revive an old thread however I have my V6S AWD at my mechanic (so not an original Jaguar dealership as car is out of warranty) and he is having exactly the same issue while undergoing the transfer box oil change.
@Joseph do you by any chance happen to have any pictures from that repair we could figure the fix from?
It seems like a pain in the *** issue and very poor engineering on the Jaguar side, I don`t even want to imagine the price for the repair Jag would call me with for something like this had it been them doing this oil change...
Snowii: It sounds like the problem I had a couple of years ago where the castle nuts break loose in the body and you are unable to remove the crossmember in order to drain the fluid. The good news is, you do not have to remove it in order to change the fluid. Here is a write up with pictures I did. Show this to your mechanic. Good Luck! https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...-v-8-a-240871/
I know this is an older thread, but we recently encountered a similar issue and wanted to share our solution in case it helps others down the road. The main weak point lies in how JLR engineered the captive nuts into the chassis. Even when using PB Blaster, WD-40, and similar products, the welds on these nuts are prone to breaking loose, causing the bolts to just spin in place. Unfortunately, once that happens, the only real option is to drill or cut them out.
We developed a workaround for this. The aluminum sections of the chassis are hollow, allowing access from the side with a die grinder or drill. In some areas, you’ll need to move the downpipes for better access. Our test vehicle had the engine removed at the time, which made the process a lot easier.
The first picture shows the setup before any damage — you can see how the captive nuts are welded in. The following photos show how we cut away part of the surrounding area to get a set of vice grips on the loose nut, allowing us to remove the bolts. We then fabricated a new set of stainless-steel nuts and welded them together to hold securely when reinstalling the transmission cross brace.
This issue only affects the AWD models with a transfer case. We’re currently refining our custom-built replacement nuts and bolts and may offer them as a solution for others who run into the same problem.
Possibly, however once the welds break on the existing nuts, there is no way to get them out to make room for a rivnut to go in, without first cutting the sides out to remove. Also, I would be concerned over the strength of rivnuts holding the brace that helps hold the transfer case/transmission in place. These bolts and nuts can be properly torque to spec, not sure if the rivnuts would.
Welds? Are those steel threaded inserts in cast alumin(i)um? I'd guess they were not welded but don't have one handy to look at; perhaps a rivnut/nutsert? I'd be interested in seeing the part that came loose.
Nice work guys! What year Jag was this? I don't remember my 16 Jag having those pockets. I'm thinking they were flat and you would need to cut the bottom of them out.
Welds? Are those steel threaded inserts in cast alumin(i)um? I'd guess they were not welded but don't have one handy to look at; perhaps a rivnut/nutsert? I'd be interested in seeing the part that came loose.
@lizzardo Very possible they were cast into the aluminum, I will be getting ready to tackle this project on my own personal vehicle soon, so I will have a better firsthand account and can take some better photos and provide feedback. Won't be until after SEMA, but I will post back when I have an update.
Dealer oops during 3 year service
