When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a 2017 F Type British Design Edition. I purchased the car with accident damage on the front left (steering wheel airbag, headlight, bumper cover, fender, hood) The car runs and drives, however I have tons of warnings on the dash that the parking brake, dynamic mode, spoiler cleaning mode etc all are intermittent or done work at all. I have cleared the codes but they pop right back up. Im guessing they are all related to the same issue. Does anyone know where I should start looking?
I have a 2017 F Type British Design Edition. I purchased the car with accident damage on the front left (steering wheel airbag, headlight, bumper cover, fender, hood) The car runs and drives, however I have tons of warnings on the dash that the parking brake, dynamic mode, spoiler cleaning mode etc all are intermittent or done work at all. I have cleared the codes but they pop right back up. Im guessing they are all related to the same issue. Does anyone know where I should start looking?
Has it been sitting for awhile? You have the classic signs of low battery voltage. Could be a bad battery or it might just need a charge.
Most of the errors you mention come from devices that are on the high-speed CAN bus (the car has multiple networks.) Might try a code reader to see if there's something more fundamental causing the issues. JIMLIGHTA's suggestion is also a good starting point.
Most of the errors you mention come from devices that are on the high-speed CAN bus (the car has multiple networks.) Might try a code reader to see if there's something more fundamental causing the issues. JIMLIGHTA's suggestion is also a good starting point.
My buddy just checked the battery and it appears to be bad. Im just going to get a new one.
Consider a lithium battery. They will automatically shut down when they produce too little voltage to properly run all the computers. Takes the guess work out of voltage related glitches. They also reduce vehicle weight by 50 lbs.
Consider a lithium battery. They will automatically shut down when they produce too little voltage to properly run all the computers. Takes the guess work out of voltage related glitches. They also reduce vehicle weight by 50 lbs.
Do you have a recommendation on a specific one to purchase?
Wow, I like that battery. Just a couple questions for clarification. We couldn't use the restart function on the battery because we couldn't get the hatch open when the battery is drained, correct? Also, It' looks like the mounting kit is a must, did you have to purchase that too?
I think Lance fabbed his own mount. Someone else has posted about a lithium battery that uses Bluetooth to restart, IIRC, to avoid the can't-open-the-trunk issue.
Wow, I like that battery. Just a couple questions for clarification. We couldn't use the restart function on the battery because we couldn't get the hatch open when the battery is drained, correct? Also, It' looks like the mounting kit is a must, did you have to purchase that too?
After messing around trying to make a fancy adapter work, I discovered that it could easily be cinched down with the existing hardware and a rubber pad under the battery. In the cubby behind and between the 2 seats, I carry a small lithium starter kit the size of a VCR cassette that’s actually strong enough to start the car but I would use to power the hatch from the terminals under the hood. The physical key obviously needs to be used to access the cabin if locked. Press and hold the reset button on the battery for 2-3 seconds and you’re ready to go again. The battery is fairly expensive, but at the advertised life of 5-7 times longer than a lead/acid battery, it’s extremely cost effective. That assumes, of course, that you can make a long-term commitment to your car.
After messing around trying to make a fancy adapter work, I discovered that it could easily be cinched down with the existing hardware and a rubber pad under the battery. In the cubby behind and between the 2 seats, I carry a small lithium starter kit the size of a VCR cassette that’s actually strong enough to start the car but I would use to power the hatch from the terminals under the hood. The physical key obviously needs to be used to access the cabin if locked. Press and hold the reset button on the battery for 2-3 seconds and you’re ready to go again. The battery is fairly expensive, but at the advertised life of 5-7 times longer than a lead/acid battery, it’s extremely cost effective. That assumes, of course, that you can make a long-term commitment to your car.
how long with the f type sitting before that battery goes into shutdown mode? my f type admittedly sits a lot longer than it should generally speaking...but I like the idea of losing 50lbs
how long with the f type sitting before that battery goes into shutdown mode? my f type admittedly sits a lot longer than it should generally speaking...but I like the idea of losing 50lbs
It’s never shut down (even after a 3 week hiatus) unless I’ve had the ignition on without the engine running. Even in that circumstance, the car starts right back up after pressing the reset button. Also, no issues starting in weather down to 22 degF. (Haven’t hit the lower limit yet)
It’s never shut down (even after a 3 week hiatus) unless I’ve had the ignition on without the engine running. Even in that circumstance, the car starts right back up after pressing the reset button. Also, no issues starting in weather down to 22 degF. (Haven’t hit the lower limit yet)
I'm assuming you could link them up to a trickle charger for periods of longer than 3 weeks? car gets driven a lot in the good weather but tends to just sit in the garage over the winter when I walk everywhere...doing a whole bunch of work in prep for this spring / summer road trip season so I'm tempted
I'm assuming you could link them up to a trickle charger for periods of longer than 3 weeks? car gets driven a lot in the good weather but tends to just sit in the garage over the winter when I walk everywhere...doing a whole bunch of work in prep for this spring / summer road trip season so I'm tempted
Trickle charger not needed with lithium batteries as much as with regular batteries as lithiums lose charge much less quickly when just sitting.
well i replaced the battery and tried to clear the warning lights on the dash but they wont go away. My next thought is they are related to the air bag having went off. i wont know until i have the airbag module reset
The last time I had a cascade of warning lights (after the wiring harness replacement) it turned out there was one connector to the eco start module (that I always turn off) that was loose. So it could even be as simple (and hard to find) as a single loose connection not related to anything throwing a code.
I would like to thank whoever it was that went onto my social media to comment on the picture of my car asking for pictures of the wrecked side. MAYBE just MAYBE this a fun project for myself and i dont care to share that with everyone. Before you post comments on people stuff how about you think first!
I would like to thank whoever it was that went onto my social media to comment on the picture of my car asking for pictures of the wrecked side. MAYBE just MAYBE this a fun project for myself and i dont care to share that with everyone. Before you post comments on people stuff how about you think first!
If you don't want comments on your social media, MAYBE, just MAYBE, you shouldn't be using it?
02-12-2019, 08:03 AM
Electrical Issues
