When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Good functioning of the variable timing relies heavily on a low viscosity oil. I can well imagine that the 5W 30 oil is causing pressure in the valves to bleed off too slowly as compared to the 0W 20 oil that is specified. Before anything else, try using the correct oil.
This is the original oil recommended by Jaguar for the 2015 F-Type R. I think since then, Jaguar has added other options since this one may be hard to find. When I had my oil change performed by an independent shop, I provided the correct oil.
That is still the recommended oil for recent F-Types.
Almost impossible to find and not likely to be available at non-JLR service centers.
There are DIY oils available including Liqui Moly that specifically meet th JLR specs.
Also, I think that Valvoline European Full Synthetic 0W20 and Pennzoil platimum European 0W20 both meet the JLR specs.
Both companies have drive though oil change service centers.
The dude put too much oil (note later replies for relevance). I’m still running 5W30 for the summer, but the noise is gone.
Take it from me, do the change yourself, at Valvoline, or at the dealer.
I assume you removed the excess oil?
Who did it and how?
I ask this because in future you should DIY oil changes as it's a piece of cake, using a pump/extractor from the top via the oil extraction tube. Plenty available on Fleabay and a common recommendation is MityVac.
DIY ensures you fill with the right amount (as long as you measure properly and take care!) and that the correct oil is used, and it's way cheaper than paying someone else to do it as well as saving on the cost of the oil.
Stacks of threads and posts around here about "correct" and "best" oil for the AJ133 and AJ126, but bottom line there are now plenty of makers of oil which meets the latest JLR spec in 0W-20 or 5W-20 (and you should also go for ILSAC GF-6A) which you can usually find a helluva lot cheaper and easier than the Castrol Unobtainium Professional Edge E.
It should be OK to leave the 5W-30 in during your summer but change it out for 0W-20 once it starts getting chilly.
Last but not least ignore the recommended oil change interval of 15,000 / 16,000 miles or 12 months whichever comes first, it is BS, and instead change the oil and filter twice as often as that. So if you do reasonably high mileage change it every 6 months, if you do low mileage change it every 8,000 or even 5,000 miles.
I change it roughly every 5000-6000 miles and I put that many miles in ~3 months. Going to DIY it next time.
I had him remove it. I figured it was best to work my way through the oil things (if removing oil didn't work I'd try 5W20, but he was adamant it was good oil) before taking it to the dealer/trained mechanic.. it said on the receipt to take it to them and not someone else, and I wanted it that way for them to keep liability if I needed a repair because of bad oil/overfill causing a specific problem.
I change it roughly every 5000-6000 miles and I put that many miles in ~3 months. Going to DIY it next time.
I had him remove it. I figured it was best to work my way through the oil things (if removing oil didn't work I'd try 5W20, but he was adamant it was good oil) before taking it to the dealer/trained mechanic.. it said on the receipt to take it to them and not someone else, and I wanted it that way for them to keep liability if I needed a repair because of bad oil/overfill causing a specific problem.
Good to see the problem is now fixed and I hope he didn't charge you anything for the follow-up work.
But I still would never go back to him again considering the mistakes he made and the nonsense about "cam belt", he obviously knows little or nothing about these engines.
Scratch that, it's back. I think it's the supercharger coupler issue. Does anyone know if this an urgent fix? Noticing no problems driving even at 7k RPM.
Scratch that, it's back. I think it's the supercharger coupler issue. Does anyone know if this an urgent fix? Noticing no problems driving even at 7k RPM.
Not an urgent fix but eventually it will wear big grooves in the SC shaft and maybe screw up the bearings so best to get it replaced now rather than later.
And while you're in there (SC off) best to also get all those pesky plastic coolant hoses renewed before one or more crack/split/leak, you can now get the front two cross over pipes in alu alloy, threads and posts around here about them. Also get the coolant pump and thermostat renewed while you are at it, and of course the SC oil replaced.
Not an urgent fix but eventually it will wear big grooves in the SC shaft and maybe screw up the bearings so best to get it replaced now rather than later.
And while you're in there (SC off) best to also get all those pesky plastic coolant hoses renewed before one or more crack/split/leak, you can now get the front two cross over pipes in alu alloy, threads and posts around here about them. Also get the coolant pump and thermostat renewed while you are at it, and of course the SC oil replaced.
You think it’s noob DIYable? I haven’t done more than replacing AC pipes in a 2003 BMW 530.. takes just a minute.
You think it’s noob DIYable? I haven’t done more than replacing AC pipes in a 2003 BMW 530.. takes just a minute.
I would say it's too hard for a noob, removing and replacing the SC is the big/hard part and that is not at all easy. Plenty of threads and posts around here about removing the SC.
I would say it's too hard for a noob, removing and replacing the SC is the big/hard part and that is not at all easy. Plenty of threads and posts around here about removing the SC.
