F-Type freaking out (possible electrical issues)
I would think that JLR would start by checking your flickering rear lights. Condensation in rear tail lights should be addressed by Jaguar. I had a battery drain from the baffle button, that was corrected and no issues since. They had to go in the rear area by removing panels and fixing the short. I cannot understand why the dealer is not correcting your rear light situation, it appears to be shorting out somewhere. Good luck
It seems that I jinxed myself yesterday when I wrote that it seems that the issue had been resolved.
The battery was full, but the car freaked out again, the same way as before.
What would be the next step in diagnosing the issue? I'm prone to believe that there is a short circuit somewhere either due to a damaged wire or something else (e.g. corossion)
Is there a wiring diagram of the F-Type which could be downloaded?
Oh, I can't express how disappointed I am with the car right now.
The battery was full, but the car freaked out again, the same way as before.
What would be the next step in diagnosing the issue? I'm prone to believe that there is a short circuit somewhere either due to a damaged wire or something else (e.g. corossion)
Is there a wiring diagram of the F-Type which could be downloaded?
Oh, I can't express how disappointed I am with the car right now.
Last edited by Maschinenmensch; May 25, 2021 at 11:24 AM.
Here’s a quick reference, which shows the complexity of the wiring.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0gff5jjwoq...rence.pdf?dl=0
There are full wiring diagrams at the end of this 500MB PDF.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/t2hfjv7bas...anual.pdf?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0gff5jjwoq...rence.pdf?dl=0
There are full wiring diagrams at the end of this 500MB PDF.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/t2hfjv7bas...anual.pdf?dl=0
I just wanted to give you guys a quick update. The workshop told me that O2 sensor needs to be replaced as they had one unsuccesful car start. They apparently checked the wiring and nothing seems to be wrong with it.
I'm sceptical if a new O2 sensor is the fix for electrical issues. Actually, I'm almost 100% sure the problems will happen again.
I'm sceptical if a new O2 sensor is the fix for electrical issues. Actually, I'm almost 100% sure the problems will happen again.
Late to the party, and apologize if I missed something in the above comments...AND I would hope JLR would have checked this...But I would suspect with all of these issues and the apparent randomness and behaviors, it is not so much the Battery, but the connections. Like the ground cable to the car...or one of the other connections to the body, battery, starter etc..
I have much more experience with Porsches than these cars, but I will tell you the Ground Strap on the 911 Turbos (an others) is notorious for breaking down or losing good connection, and creates all sorts of issues.
Just something to consider.
Best of luck,
DC
I have much more experience with Porsches than these cars, but I will tell you the Ground Strap on the 911 Turbos (an others) is notorious for breaking down or losing good connection, and creates all sorts of issues.
Just something to consider.
Best of luck,
DC
I've been having electrical issues for a few months. Seemingly, battery not charging or holding charge. Been back and forth with Jag with little result but they have never really run the car. Decided to run with volt meter attached to battery and one of those cigarette volt meters. Whilst lazy running reading is only 12 to 12.2. running up hill reads 13.0 to 13.8. Down hill feet off all three pedals reads 13 to 13.8 again...! Back to lazy, flat running 12 to 12.1. Re-tested volt meters in my Audi S4 - flat running reads 13.5 to 13.8 all the time. Battery in S4 is three months old.
What is the running voltage if you turn the headlights on (or turn the interior fan to HIGH) while driving?
Many new car systems have an Electric Load Detector...in order to save .05 MPG the alternator won't provide current unless it senses a load. So with headlamps ON you should see 13.5 - 14.5 VDC.
Another thing to check is the electrical connector from the rear-mounted battery to the front of the car, near the engine. Couldn't find a picture just now, but if the engine undertray is removed, you can see the large red wire just inboard of the RF wheel.
Many new car systems have an Electric Load Detector...in order to save .05 MPG the alternator won't provide current unless it senses a load. So with headlamps ON you should see 13.5 - 14.5 VDC.
Another thing to check is the electrical connector from the rear-mounted battery to the front of the car, near the engine. Couldn't find a picture just now, but if the engine undertray is removed, you can see the large red wire just inboard of the RF wheel.
Also, the start of this story goes back three months to a 240 mile drive to Virginia from NY. Two days after which the battery was completely flat. Had to jump started and that took a few attempts. Charging system or battery not been right since.
I vaguely recall seeing somewhere that someone had an alternator failure caused by water dripping onto it. I can't remember all (any of!) the details, but that might be worth checking.
Here is some very good and complete charging/battery/electrical system information. Placing a link here to my cloud drive for you and others and also will add a link to my DIY Thread.
It is almost 9 MB, but has tons of procedures for testing system etc.
Battery - Cables - Charge System Info
Good luck,
DC
It is almost 9 MB, but has tons of procedures for testing system etc.
Battery - Cables - Charge System Info
Good luck,
DC
Last edited by Therock88; Jun 30, 2021 at 04:01 AM.
Late to the party, and apologize if I missed something in the above comments...AND I would hope JLR would have checked this...But I would suspect with all of these issues and the apparent randomness and behaviors, it is not so much the Battery, but the connections. Like the ground cable to the car...or one of the other connections to the body, battery, starter etc..
I have much more experience with Porsches than these cars, but I will tell you the Ground Strap on the 911 Turbos (an others) is notorious for breaking down or losing good connection, and creates all sorts of issues.
Just something to consider.
Best of luck,
DC
I have much more experience with Porsches than these cars, but I will tell you the Ground Strap on the 911 Turbos (an others) is notorious for breaking down or losing good connection, and creates all sorts of issues.
Just something to consider.
Best of luck,
DC
The o2 sensor was replaced, the bill was received but the problem persists.
This is what I was greeted with today. The car wasn't even driven at that point. It didn't want to start and when it finally did this is what I got:
One thing I noticed is that the problem occurs more often when it is hot outside.
Whilst driving home the yellow CEL was constantly on (even after couple of hours of being parked) and I have also noticed that one of the fuses is considerably hotter than the others. Not sure if this can indicate an issue.
Last edited by Maschinenmensch; Jul 4, 2021 at 07:47 AM.
It wasn't my intention to be shy, just wasn't sure if it indicates something or not. The large grey one is the one that was noticeably hotter.
This fuse box is located on the driver's side in the engine compartment (LHD car)
EDIT: Actually, I'm not even sure if it is a fuse to be honest. I checked the fuse diagram and it says nothing about this grey boxy thing.
EDIT 2: Got it, it's a relay. Should they run hot?
Last edited by Maschinenmensch; Jul 3, 2021 at 05:44 PM.
Re: Edit 2:
Yes, that is a relay. They should not run TOO hot (might be warm but you should be able to leave a finger on it without wincing)
The part is identical to the other gray relay on the bottom. You could swap them, see if the heat follows the part. (If not, its something else drawing current, seems that the rating is 20 amps)
I'd bring it back to the dealer, perhaps you will provide the clues that will identify the issue.
Yes, that is a relay. They should not run TOO hot (might be warm but you should be able to leave a finger on it without wincing)

The part is identical to the other gray relay on the bottom. You could swap them, see if the heat follows the part. (If not, its something else drawing current, seems that the rating is 20 amps)
I'd bring it back to the dealer, perhaps you will provide the clues that will identify the issue.
Thank you for the infos and the file you provided. I got my car back today after it had been at a Jag workshop for more than a month. They claim that they have checked all the cables and couldn't find anyrhing but suggsted that the problem might be with an o2 sensor (which makes no sense at all).
The o2 sensor was replaced, the bill was received but the problem persists.
This is what I was greeted with today. The car wasn't even driven at that point. It didn't want to start and when it finally did this is what I got:
https://youtu.be/4MpxkgUUbnw
One thing I noticed is that the problem occurs more often when it is hot outside.
Whilst driving home the yellow CEL was constantly on (even after couple of hours of being parked) and I have also noticed that one of the fuses is considerably hotter than the others. Not sure if this can indicate an issue.
Thank you for the infos and the file you provided. I got my car back today after it had been at a Jag workshop for more than a month. They claim that they have checked all the cables and couldn't find anyrhing but suggsted that the problem might be with an o2 sensor (which makes no sense at all).
The o2 sensor was replaced, the bill was received but the problem persists.
This is what I was greeted with today. The car wasn't even driven at that point. It didn't want to start and when it finally did this is what I got:
https://youtu.be/4MpxkgUUbnw
One thing I noticed is that the problem occurs more often when it is hot outside.
Whilst driving home the yellow CEL was constantly on (even after couple of hours of being parked) and I have also noticed that one of the fuses is considerably hotter than the others. Not sure if this can indicate an issue.
The o2 sensor was replaced, the bill was received but the problem persists.
This is what I was greeted with today. The car wasn't even driven at that point. It didn't want to start and when it finally did this is what I got:
https://youtu.be/4MpxkgUUbnw
One thing I noticed is that the problem occurs more often when it is hot outside.
Whilst driving home the yellow CEL was constantly on (even after couple of hours of being parked) and I have also noticed that one of the fuses is considerably hotter than the others. Not sure if this can indicate an issue.
Thank you for the infos and the file you provided. I got my car back today after it had been at a Jag workshop for more than a month. They claim that they have checked all the cables and couldn't find anyrhing but suggsted that the problem might be with an o2 sensor (which makes no sense at all).
The o2 sensor was replaced, the bill was received but the problem persists.
This is what I was greeted with today. The car wasn't even driven at that point. It didn't want to start and when it finally did this is what I got:
https://youtu.be/4MpxkgUUbnw
One thing I noticed is that the problem occurs more often when it is hot outside.
Whilst driving home the yellow CEL was constantly on (even after couple of hours of being parked) and I have also noticed that one of the fuses is considerably hotter than the others. Not sure if this can indicate an issue.
Based on what you have going on here, and the fact that the dealer was actually able to look at and touch the car, and not able to correctly DX or fix, it is doubtful any of us here on the forum are going to be able to discover the issue from descriptions/pictures, or videos.
I think your best bet is having the dealer use their SDD software etc., and go through the complete Dx procedures. Good luck resolving you issues.
DC
So after almost 4 months without a car I finally received a call 5 days ago that I can pick up the car as they had found and repaired the issue.
Two modules have been replaced; one being body processor module and the other one being keyless start control module. Total cost was 1800€ (6h labor + parts).
They weren't able to diagnose the problem just by looking at the codes but since I was able to explain them in detail all the circumstances and all the steps that lead to the problem they were able to pinpoint a location where the problem was. Since the correct diagnose was too complex to perform I assume they replaced both modules to be on the safe side. Bear in mind that the car would only demonstrate the problems after driving it first on the highway and then in the city when the temperatures were over 25°C/77°F.
I hope that whoever has similar issues that he will find this post useful.
Now I can continue to be a happy Jag-owner
Two modules have been replaced; one being body processor module and the other one being keyless start control module. Total cost was 1800€ (6h labor + parts).
They weren't able to diagnose the problem just by looking at the codes but since I was able to explain them in detail all the circumstances and all the steps that lead to the problem they were able to pinpoint a location where the problem was. Since the correct diagnose was too complex to perform I assume they replaced both modules to be on the safe side. Bear in mind that the car would only demonstrate the problems after driving it first on the highway and then in the city when the temperatures were over 25°C/77°F.
I hope that whoever has similar issues that he will find this post useful.
Now I can continue to be a happy Jag-owner
Last edited by Maschinenmensch; Aug 20, 2021 at 04:59 PM.








