😂 This is the car meet scene in California nowadays. Contemplating swapping it over to my Civic instead.

 

That's reassuring to hear, ran out of time today as the intake took unexpectedly long, I will share my impression once it is done.

 

So i got the rears installed, the left side is making a clunking noise over medium bumps. No noise over small bumps. Car rides otherwise perfect even without the fronts installed, I'm guessing the left spring wasn't seated properly so it loosens on rebound making the noise.

The drop gradually settled over two days, before was about 2.2inches from fender to top of tire, after is about 1.3inch from fender to top of tire, not scientific I know, but falls right in line with VAP's 7/8'' figure. Very happy with the result so far.

Getting fronts done on monday, hopefully it doesn't take much to fix the noise.

 

Yep...knocking is either spring not properly aligned/seated in strut cap, or strut tower nuts not tightened. (Or possibly control arm, or other suspension component not reinstalled properly) Should be an easy fix.

Good luck,
DC

 

Just reporting back my impression of these springs, finally got all corners done.

It is a resounding "great", ride is definitely not harsher than stock, corners flatter, rebound is quicker, comfort is improved, even steering feels better, especially the return to center(what's the technical term?) motion is smoother and more linear now.

I will definitely recommend these if anyone is on the fence.
fence like I did.

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Did you transfer the spring insulator to the new springs?

Suspension Spring Insulator T2R15835

 

Which lowering kit did you use?

 

You do need insulators. For the H&R suspension we used the OEM insulators.

 

VAP ones.

These things? I left them on.


oem spring on the strut, VAP springs on the ground.

 

Good to hear! I am seriously considering these lowering springs. My only worry is that I'm in Philly and the roads are horrible around here and also outside the city. Is the drop going to be an issue considering the car is already pretty vulnerable at its current stance?

 

Roads are SH@T here in Illinois too, and these drops are subtle enough that there are no issues. Enjoy.

DC

 

I'm in NYC and the relatively conservative drop of 7/8" hasn't been a problem. I do encounter scrap issues where I wasn't before, but it is limited to the front sacrificial lip under the front spoiler. My driveway for example is quite steep, if I go head in it will scrap the lip every time. If I went butt in then it will scrap on exit.

You will know if you can't clear something, when you see it.

If you are talking about the ride quality, I can assure you it is every bit as good as stock, maybe, just maybe, a tiny bit better even. I haven't had to use the whole suspension travel yet, though I'm positive it is that much shorter than stock, but in that scenario, I'd be more concerned about my rims.

I have yet to encounter those plastic cover they use during road work, the ones they cover their equipment power line with, they are a huge bitch since even if you can clear it, the drop is so sharp you will compress the suspension and drop your frame right on top of it, avoid at all cost!!

 

Good to know!

 

Well, thats all I need to know... If they can make it on NYC roads, I should be ok. I have never encountered those plastic covers but I have encountered massive potholes here in Philly that will drop your car into an abyss. My Audi S4 was destroyed in such a way.

 

I wouldn't worry about those too much, they will swallow you awhole lowered or not ;p

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Thank you once again for the DIY Rock, you're a pillar in the community.

Observations:

Rears were much easier than the fronts for me. Not sure if I did something wrong, but I really had to unreasonably wrestle the upper control arm on the fronts. Also used a small scissor jack against the sway bar to expand the suspension downward to get enough clearance. Additionally, I found it basically impossible to re-align the rear struts with the shock tower bolt holes, since from below you are going in blind. I had my dad help me with this while I sat in the bare trunk and made sure the shock was aligned properly. Overall, the same basic concept but more obstacles and thus harder than coilover installs I've done on some JDM cars (G35, etc).

Tip: The rear lower strut mount bolts seemed to be around 21mm, which is larger than most socket/wrench sets since they top out at 19mm. I had a 23 wrench lying around and this worked, but I was very careful to not strip the bolt head as it was too large.

I installed Eibachs, imo they ride the same as far as stiffness but I feel a little more road feedback, especially on low quality roads. I would say about 20% more. The springs definitely appeared to be less progressive than the OEMs. Side note, I miss having colorful springs that you can see through the wheel (Eibachs are black, and I'm coming from bright green Teins lol).

The look though, complete with spacers, is really what I've been after for a year now. The Eibachs drop .6in/1in and I appreciate the increased drop in the rear to even out the perceived stock rake. Although, I would probably appreciate another quarter inch all around, but my scraping days are over so I am satisfied