The OBD2 reading is through TorquePro. I got a third reading at 2 ticks below Max at 91% but somehow I lost the screenshot. I'll try to get middle and bottom oil level readings at my next oil change. Extrapolating 2.5% per tick initially indicates:

Max ~ 96% Capacity
7/8 ~ 93.5%
6/8 ~ 91%
5/8 ~ 88.5 %
Middle ~ 86%
3/8 ~ 83.5%
2/8 ~ 81%
1/8 ~ 78.5%
Min ~ 76%

So the OBD 2 reading confirms the Middle line is 1 quart low and Min is 2 quarts low.

 

The burning question in my mind: when OIL LEVEL OK is displayed next to the dash "gauge"...is it really OK?

In other words, would an engine that is 2 quarts down, be subject to damage?

 

i'd expect an engine that was 2 quarts down wouldn't report OK. My UK manual shows a message "Low" with the instruction to add 1.5 litres, then recheck the level. There's another message listed: ""Add xx litres" which indicates how much additional oil is needed. I've seen posts elsewhere from people who have been advised to add 0.5 litre.

 

^^ Thanks. I'm OCD enough to keep on top of this (and I find myself checking oil level every 2 - 3 drives). It's easy from the drivers seat!

Over my last year's oil change interval, the level dropped about two tic marks from "Max", over 5K miles. Never added any...But I didn't realize that the indicator showed 2 qts/ltrs down, before "min".

 

Me too! I check mine whenever I get in the car after I've parked it on level ground.

 

Just had my oil changed (along with all of the filters) at the dealership for my next to last maintenance service. Went out this morning and drove the vehicle until it was properly warmed up, turned it off and let it sit for 10 minutes and then checked the oil level. It was at the 3/4 mark (just above the oil can symbol) and I was wondering if this is normal? Would have thought that the level would be closer to the full mark and does this mean I'm already a quart low? Thanks for your advice.

 

It should be dead on Max. Confirm the reading and pop by the dealer so they can top it off. (Not urgent, but given your starting point, you'd probably pay more attention than usual in the meantime.)

 

A better check is to verify it in the morning after the oil has fully returned to the sump. The 10 minute rule refers to a minimum amount of time to allow most of the oil to return to the sump. It is not a "must do", although some seem to interpret it this way.

 

My car came from the factory with the oil level reading one hash mark below Max, and saying Engine Oil Level OK. I added a measured 8 ounces of oil and the gauge hasn't moved. I'm thinking of adding another measured 8 ounces to see if the gauge moves up one notch to the Max mark, but I'm certainly fine with it reading one mark below.

 

Thanks for the tip sov211, checked it this morning and the oil level is at the top of the gauge where it should be and I'm glad I didn't overreact and add any extra oil.

 

Park your car on an incline with the nose DOWN. The level indicator will move towards MAX, then! (Just kidding)

Presently, my F reads FULL in my garage, but if parked on the drive outside where the rear wheels are ~2" lower than the fronts, it reads down.
Not a big deal as my annual oil change will happen very soon.

 

Note that the oil level is an average over a number of readings. You can make it 'live' (search on here). When oil is changed they are supposed to reset the average. But perhaps they didn't. That could explain why it showed 3/4 at first then got back to normal after a few readings?

 

checked mine about an hour ago it showed it was overfilled , started the engine for 2 min ,let it set for an 1/2 hour and it now sez ok . local jag dealer just changed my oili about 100 miles ago any ideas?

 

The factory engineers want the oil to be up to operating temperature prior to the checking of it's level. As you stated, the 7-10 minute wait time is to allow for that warm/hot oil to drop into the sump/crankcase. It is possible with cold oil to get a different reading on a dipstick (if this car had one) as opposed to hot oil and one would think the same thing could occur with the electronic gauge. Any owner can certainly do what they want when checking the oil, but I would recommend they follow the manual's instructions.

 

Granted.

But why not compare the factory method (which is a pain, with the waiting) to the readings you get with a cold engine? That's what I did initially.

++++++++++

Thinking about it (dangerous, I know) how does the car's 'averaging' system work? If the reading is high one time (perhaps because you are on a slight incline) and low the next time (because of a different incline), would the reading incorporate both?

 

i don’t know what year F type you have, but my ‘21 model won’t give you a reading on a cold engine, it has to be warmed up to operating temperature.

 

Sorry...ours is a 2014. (In my SIG but they don't always show on the mobile app)

You can't get the instant reading by having the bonnet and drivers door open, and pressing CC CANC button on the steering wheel twice?

If not, you are doomed to wait ten minutes before checking? "SIRI, tell me to check my oil level 10 minutes from now" LOL

 

Yea,I really don’t like the system where you electronically check the oil level. Having a dipstick is the real way to check the car’s oil level, IMO. At least with my Mercedes’s, they have the electronic oil level check, but you do it while you are running the engine, including while you are driving the car. That makes it a whole lot easier than the Jag system. The C7 Z06’s have the same wait time (10 minutes) to check the oil with a dipstick, but that’s because it’s a dry sump system with 2 compartments so you have to wait 10 min for drainage before you check it with a dipstick…no electronics there!

 

MANY automakers recommend waiting a few minutes before checking oil level on a warm engine. The purpose of that advice is understandable, to me.

And, for all the folks that complain about the lack of a dipstick:
I find myself checking the oil level much more often with the steering wheel controls.

 

My 2021 will display the oil level with an engine that has been sitting for 24 hours but it reads one graduation lower on the display than when warm. I just checked it and it is at the 6/8 mark. It has been reading 7/8 the last few times I checked it warm, within 15 minutes to a half hour after a drive.